97’ rebuild started, follow and advise, giggle or facepalm

[Stevowevo]

My upfront warning is that I’m not a forum guru or mechanical genius so like the title says…..
Anyway, I have some parts starting to roll in so I figured I’d try and share some of the journey. Here’s my basket case
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[Stevowevo]

I decided to start with the front end lift kit, a 6” from Steeling (sp?). They didn’t have a kit that was an exact match in stock but advised me one for newer model year carts would fit if I put the newer front wheel hubs on it. I say great and throw those in the basket as well. I got about half way into it when I found out the factory CC bolts (which the instructions say to use)are too short. Went to the local marina store and found some stainless steel replacements.
Got a little further along and discovered that the the original castle nuts to hold the shiny new hubs on are the wrong size too. Oh well, I’m going to need a lot more parts anyway
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[Stevowevo]

I just wanted to clarify that I’m not knocking SGC or their product in fact their customer service was top notch when I called about ordering my parts
Ok to keep things moving along I have started working on the rear axles and I have a few questions. Does anyone know a good method for changing the the bearings that sit behind the hubs?
My other concern is the brakes. Considering the cart will be lifted with bigger 23” tires, should I put an aftermarket disk kit in or run a new set of stock drums? Here you can see the bearing in question
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[Stevowevo]

I’m toying with the idea of a new/rebuilt transaxle if anyone knows where I could source it from
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[BBBHC]

Looks like a good project. For a transaxle you could try calling Dave at http://www.revolutiongolfcars.com/. He is a site sponsor here and you wont find better customer service.

[Cb750]

Originally Posted by Stevowevo

I just wanted to clarify that I’m not knocking SGC or their product in fact their customer service was top notch when I called about ordering my parts
Ok to keep things moving along I have started working on the rear axles and I have a few questions. Does anyone know a good method for changing the the bearings that sit behind the hubs?
My other concern is the brakes. Considering the cart will be lifted with bigger 23” tires, should I put an aftermarket disk kit in or run a new set of stock drums? Here you can see the bearing in question
Attachment 227891

I took my axles to work and used a press. You'll need a big clamshell too.

MAYBE you can use the Toyota "hate concrete" method, but that requires removing the axle tube.

[Stevowevo]

I had to google the Toyota/concrete method. Seems pretty risky with an expensive part but hey if it works, it works.
Does anyone know what rotation the Fuji ed65 axles are set up for? And can I make one fit in the 97’ model? I’m still considering that option. Hell I’d put an ezgo or yammy if all I had to do was cut and switch the spring mounts

[crash12888]

It looks like you are doing a lot of great work. Are the bearings making noise or just replacing while you are in there? Most any automotive shop or speed shop will change the bearings for you if needed.
As far as brakes, you might wait on them before you swap to disc.
If the drums will lock up with the 28s on there then you will not do any better with discs.

[Fairtax4me]

Went to the local marina store and found some stainless steel replacements.

Which grade stainless? Most Stainless hardware is lower strength than standard grade 5 steel hardware and is prone to breaking in structural or high stress applications. It's not something you generally want when it's holding suspension parts together. There are high strength grades of stainless, but they are generally very expensive and not commonly available.

Stainless is also prone to cause corrosion when in direct contact with aluminum, if any of the bolts are touching the aluminum frame you'll end up with white aluminum oxide powder all around the contact areas of the bolts.

[dundeebarnbuggy]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

Which grade stainless? Most Stainless hardware is lower strength than standard grade 5 steel hardware and is prone to breaking in structural or high stress applications. It's not something you generally want when it's holding suspension parts together. There are high strength grades of stainless, but they are generally very expensive and not commonly available.

Stainless is also prone to cause corrosion when in direct contact with aluminum, if any of the bolts are touching the aluminum frame you'll end up with white aluminum oxide powder all around the contact areas of the bolts.