Frankenstein Eh29c turbo build. Please help if you can!

[ShrunkenMonsters]

Originally Posted by Leon willis

weld the dif

Prob going to go with the ROHX Roadhawk 22x10-14’s. Doubt I’d ever have the need to have slicks to lower pressure so I can get more grip on the track. Lol. But I have done the calcs on possible speed achievements. I’ll post the pic. If y’all can decipher my chicken scratch.
Edit; and as for the welded diff. I’ve seen it done, but I mostly use this on the road and occasionally on the golf course. I’d really like to see if someone has a ‘96 ME29 axle posi/diff locker ideas.

B3903CB7-17C1-48B9-BC64-6D0714778CD0.jpg

[ShrunkenMonsters]

Originally Posted by Leon willis

go power sports

As for gopowersports.com I’ve sourced some valves and retainers from them. I didn’t use them yet for the current build, but the thing that interests me the most from them is the aluminum flywheels they have. Has there been anyone that’s been able to make them with with the EH29C’s?

[ShrunkenMonsters]

Originally Posted by JPonLKN

I would do a search of Fast Fred, supercharged TXT. While I realize you are pushing air in a different way, he also used a CDI, did work on his heads to open up the processing of air. Custom valves, but the biggest take I got was he used stock crank, rods, pistons. Everything was done to the top end, not the bottom end, and he reportedly pushed this engine up and often without issue. There are some details out there, and more from the pictures that are still out there. Maybe someone that bought one of his kits can spread some light on what all was included in his kit. That being said, it was still only in the mid 20's to 30's HP from the sounds of it. Going big block with the builds outlined in Red Beard's Garage get the power up in the 30's, 40's and to 70hp, depending on how much build you want to put into it, including supercharging. I guess it all depends on your goals. What do you want to do with the cart that the turbo gives you something special?

Fast Fred’s posts I have read all of them thoroughly, his posts were originally what made me join BGW. Supercharged VS turbo is ultimately coming down to the parasitic loss from the supercharger for instant power vs. well H**l I’ll say it, turbo noises, lack of parasitic loss, but heat soak from the turbo. This build isn’t about having the most powerful GC (there’s always going to be someone with more money, time, and knowledge than me) I can’t compete with a nitrous Busa golf cart. But if I can get this all figured out, I can make a safe kit for purchase. And as for what the turbo gives me that’s special…. MANIACAL TURBO NOISES!! Boost in power, fun noises, and ability to tune. My TXT is already dumb. It’s already got full police lights and sirens, lightbar, super bright led headlights, does 25-27mph as it sits with 205/30-14’s. But my son (when I have him) loves to work on it with me and loves going for backroad rides with me. As for redbeardgarage, the thought of a supercharged 670 under my son’s butt while we drive a couple of mile sections doesn’t sit right with me. But also I want to see what can be done with the stock engine for power and reliability before I move onto a big block or motorcycle engine. Also I’d have to lift it for a 670, and I don’t wanna. I could do a big block 440 or similar single cyl but I want to see what I can do with an EH29C before I take the easier way out.

[ShrunkenMonsters]

Notably, I need to invest in a fire extinguisher. I’d like to have some kind of positrack so I don’t just turn left every time the front wheels leave the ground. I’m probably going to (after getting the EFI tuned, and running right) try a nitrous kit to get that tuned correctly. Then turbo MAPs then supercharger MAPs and according base files. This is fun, and I’m going to enjoy sharing the experience with all of you all!

[ShrunkenMonsters]

Just an update. It’s coming along fairly well. Should have all the hardware installed by tonight then on to the tuning.
389EB10E-1898-4D2C-82CB-2D3732A43010.jpg

[ShrunkenMonsters]

Ok, so new question… can anyone explain how the starter generator works? If I have a button that just bumps the starter to start the cart and the efi takes over and keeps it running, will it still charge? Does it have to be a certain rpm to charge? If so, what is that rpm? And will it charge if that circuit is broken?

[Cartmaster]

The starter/generator must be connected to the battery all the time the engine is running to charge the battery. Charging starts when the engine spins the S/G faster than the battery will. This is why it is fed by a continuous use rated solenoid, engaged all the time the pedal switch is activated. If you use a push button for starting, as soon as you release the button, The solenoid drops out and you lose connection to the battery. If you are doing this through the solenoid, you will also lose power to the ignition If your ignition components are connected to the output side of the solenoid. The only sensible easy way to do it would be to activate a latching relay operated by push button in place of the pedal switch on the start circuit to hold the solenoid on until you cut power to the latch relay keeping the solenoid activated. Any other way I can think of would require much more work. For example, adding a separate alternator for charging and only using the s/g for starting. But then you have to worry about the original generator circuit having no battery load.
Some people attempt to set these to idle by overriding the pedal switch and rely on just the key switch activating the starter/generator. But they don't seem to realise that the battery is powering the starter all the time until it spins faster by raising engine revs and then will start to charge. The actual revs the starter converts to generator can vary due to battery condition and other factors so we can't give an actual speed at when this happens. People try to raise the idle to start generation, but then you have clutch issues that need addressing.
I will pop back here later to see if anyone else comments to correct anything I may have wrong lol.

EDIT.

I have assumed you have powered your EFI and HEI from the solenoid the same as the OEM ignition circuit, but maybe you have it powered from a different switched source, so maybe it will just be charging issues to think about.

It does seem that you want to have key/push button start but have a reliable charging system too.

Your easiest route ( and I understand your reasons for not doing so ) would be to install an aftermarket engine with its own starter and use the starter generator purely for charging but I am not sure how this would be achieved. Maybe using a big old diode to allow the current to only flow back to the battery? If you installed an engine that also has a high output charge circuit, you could then do away with the S/G completely. The Robin engine obviously has neither of these features.

I hope this answers your questions.

[CP241]

Cartmaster is on track

You can make it idle the way an engine idles, youll have to dial your own efi and throttle settings in to make that happen. But it can be done.

The starter generator has 2 functions. At low RPM it functions as a motor when voltage is applied to it. This motor serves as the starter for the gas engine.

Once the engine reaches a certain rotational speed (1000rpm or so I’d guesstimate) the process essentially reverses itself. So instead of using electricity, it creates electricity. This is passed from the starter gen, through the solenoid, and back to the battery charging it.

I could go into much greater deal about specifically how the magnetic fields inside of it work if you need me to, but don’t think that’s what you’re trying to understand here :)

Now, to accomplish what you want to do, the easiest thing to do would be to not “bump” the starter. But have it function normally. You can bypass the pedal switch and wire it to the key. Anytime the key is on, the solenoid is active and the starter gen is connected to the battery. You’ll have to just use a meter and see at what rpm it switches from “motor” to “generator”. You’ll see voltage drop below the static battery voltage (from 12.4 to 10.2 for example). And once it changes to generator mode you’ll see that voltage match or exceed the resting battery voltage. As long as you set your idle above that threshold, you won’t run into charging issues while it’s idling. If you set it below that threshold, it will idle and run fine until the battery runs out of capacity because it’s feeding power to the starter and killing the battery. At some point when voltage is low enough? The cart will die.

However what you will want to do is set the engine to idle at or above 1000ish RPM. You may need a slightly stiffer spring in the primary clutch to hold it open longer so it does not engage until a higher rpm. You’ll just have to experiment a bit with different spring rates to get what works. Not stiff enough and the clutch will close prematurely, causing the cart to “creep” while it idles. Too stiff of a spring and the clutch will engage at too high of an rpm and engage fairly harshly (think of a manual transmission and “dropping the clutch” at 2000rpm or 4000 rpm. Same principle).

Ultimately it can be done, but it’s going to take a lot of tweaking. Though I do have to wonder, why make it idle? Seems like it would be a lot simpler to keep it pedal start like it came that way. Unless idling constantly is a requirement for your efi system?

[ShrunkenMonsters]

Sorry for the disappearance, we’re trying to buy another house at the moment and it’s taken all of my time. The reason for the starter generator question is that if I wire the efi system directly through the key, the efi would continue to stay on and keep the engine running without the aid of the SG. I guess I was just hoping that if the SG wasn’t engaged that it would still continue to charge the battery.
So for my next question… does anyone know what kind of pickup system there is on the flywheel and what the degree offset it is before top dead center?