1995 Series EZGO

[criley]

A few weeks back I found a non-running 1995 EZGO for cheap. Thanks to the good folks here I was able to find a manual, repair a few connections, replace batteries and battery wires, and get the thing running. Oh, and I installed a flip seat on the back in place of the bag carrier.

First serious outing was hauling myself and three kids around a very hilly sporting clays course. Going up some of the long, steep hills it was pretty slow. I don't necessarily want it to be a speed demon, but I'd like a little better performance going up hills.

When I replaced the battery cables, I used 4ga welding wire. I intend to replace all of the rest of the cable with 4ga wire as well.

Should I go ahead and sell this one and buy a newer model with DCS or PDS? Or is it worth just upgrading the forward/reverse, solenoid, controller, and motor in the one I have?

With all I've done to it now it's a pretty solid running cart. I'm into it for about 1300.00 so far (cost of the cart, new batteries,,flip seat, cable, etc).

[Olman]

I've got your same cart. I have done all the upgrades in my signature and meaning no offense to the DCS/PDS guys, I wouldn't trade. This cart is simple, easy to work on, and so far seems bullet proof. Just my opinion of course

[criley]

Originally Posted by Olman

I've got your same cart. I have done all the upgrades in my signature and meaning no offense to the DCS/PDS guys, I wouldn't trade. This cart is simple, easy to work on, and so far seems bullet proof. Just my opinion of course

LOL I'm gonna barrage you with questions now -
How does you cart do going up hills with that 2 speed motor? Did you have to upgrade to 48 volts to use that motor? Or did you just do that for more runtime? (Or did you NEED to go 48 in order to keep the same runtime you had with 36, after upgrade to the more powerful motor and controller?)


Charles

[Olman]

Originally Posted by criley

LOL I'm gonna barrage you with questions now -
How does you cart do going up hills with that 2 speed motor? Did you have to upgrade to 48 volts to use that motor? Or did you just do that for more runtime? (Or did you NEED to go 48 in order to keep the same runtime you had with 36, after upgrade to the more powerful motor and controller?)


Charles

The cart does fine going up hills. I haven't used the torque setting yet. I just leave it on high speed. The motor was built when the cart was 36 volts. I upgraded to 48 just because I had a wild hair to go faster. Extended run time and extra torque was a bonus. Going to 48 was, besides the motor, the best upgrade I made. Big difference. Before you can go 48 you have to upgrade the controller, solenoid and associated items to handle the voltage. Understand you can run 36 with upgrades and have a lot more power and speed. BEWARE--you can make that cart faster than you can drive it safely.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by criley

A few weeks back I found a non-running 1995 EZGO for cheap. Thanks to the good folks here I was able to find a manual, repair a few connections, replace batteries and battery wires, and get the thing running. Oh, and I installed a flip seat on the back in place of the bag carrier.

First serious outing was hauling myself and three kids around a very hilly sporting clays course. Going up some of the long, steep hills it was pretty slow. I don't necessarily want it to be a speed demon, but I'd like a little better performance going up hills.

When I replaced the battery cables, I used 4ga welding wire. I intend to replace all of the rest of the cable with 4ga wire as well.

Should I go ahead and sell this one and buy a newer model with DCS or PDS? Or is it worth just upgrading the forward/reverse, solenoid, controller, and motor in the one I have?

With all I've done to it now it's a pretty solid running cart. I'm into it for about 1300.00 so far (cost of the cart, new batteries,,flip seat, cable, etc).

No offense taken Olman.

Type of drive (Series or Sepex) depends on what the cart is to be used for most of the time.
In general terms, a Series drive has more torque and a Sepex drive has more speed, but there are some mighty fast Series carts around here as well as some Sepex carts that will do wheelies.

All electric carts slow down on hills, but the reason many of them slow down so much is due to bottlenecks in the amp delivery system between the battery pack and the motor.

You've got new batteries, so unless they are ferociously undersized (225AH is standard for a 36V battery pack), they should be okay. Since the motor is running, it is likely to be okay also. So the issues are between the two.

Sounds like you've installed five 4Ga cable on the battery pack. All 13 high current cables ought to be 4Ga or heavier, so you got 8 more to replace.

The 19 year old F/R switch is another potential bottleneck, it probably needs to be replaced. Since you are climbing hills with a heavy load, a heavy-duty F/R switch would probably be needed.

The stock controller is only 275A, so it should be up graded to 400A, or higher.

-------
Get the bottlenecks out of the drive system and it won't slow nearly as much on the hills.

[criley]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

No offense taken Olman.

Type of drive (Series or Sepex) depends on what the cart is to be used for most of the time.
In general terms, a Series drive has more torque and a Sepex drive has more speed, but there are some mighty fast Series carts around here as well as some Sepex carts that will do wheelies.

All electric carts slow down on hills, but the reason many of them slow down so much is due to bottlenecks in the amp delivery system between the battery pack and the motor.

You've got new batteries, so unless they are ferociously undersized (225AH is standard for a 36V battery pack), they should be okay. Since the motor is running, it is likely to be okay also. So the issues are between the two.

Sounds like you've installed five 4Ga cable on the battery pack. All 13 high current cables ought to be 4Ga or heavier, so you got 8 more to replace.

The 19 year old F/R switch is another potential bottleneck, it probably needs to be replaced. Since you are climbing hills with a heavy load, a heavy-duty F/R switch would probably be needed.

The stock controller is only 275A, so it should be up graded to 400A, or higher.

-------
Get the bottlenecks out of the drive system and it won't slow nearly as much on the hills.

Can I upgrade the controller without upgrading the motor? I'd hate to burn up the motor.
Do either of you guys have recommendations on the controller?

Do they make a controller that can handle 36 and 48 volt battery packs? I can see myself eventually upgrading all of this stuff but it probably won't be all at once.

I have a few weeks before I need this thing for another shotgun match and will likely take the body apart and paint it camo. While I have the body off, I'll replace the rest of those wires and probably the f/r switch. Thinking about maybe converting the f/r to a big latching relay. Still kinda debating pros and cons on that.

[Sir Nuke]

Originally Posted by criley

Can I upgrade the controller without upgrading the motor? I'd hate to burn up the motor.
Do either of you guys have recommendations on the controller?

Do they make a controller that can handle 36 and 48 volt battery packs? I can see myself eventually upgrading all of this stuff but it probably won't be all at once.

I have a few weeks before I need this thing for another shotgun match and will likely take the body apart and paint it camo. While I have the body off, I'll replace the rest of those wires and probably the f/r switch. Thinking about maybe converting the f/r to a big latching relay. Still kinda debating pros and cons on that.

can you upgrade the controller and use the stock motor....MOST CERTAINLY.

Most aftermarket Controllers, that are programmable, can be run on either 36v or 48v.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by criley

Can I upgrade the controller without upgrading the motor? I'd hate to burn up the motor.
Do either of you guys have recommendations on the controller?

Do they make a controller that can handle 36 and 48 volt battery packs? I can see myself eventually upgrading all of this stuff but it probably won't be all at once.

I have a few weeks before I need this thing for another shotgun match and will likely take the body apart and paint it camo. While I have the body off, I'll replace the rest of those wires and probably the f/r switch. Thinking about maybe converting the f/r to a big latching relay. Still kinda debating pros and cons on that.

Stock motors and stock batteries are the strongest parts of a stock drive system.
Unless you go over 400A on the controller, the stock motor will be happy.

This website has a pretty good overview of what to take into consideration when upgrading a cart: http://www.cartsunlimited.net/Custom_Options.html

Either a AXE-4844 or a SPM-48400 controller will work well in your cart. Both will work on 36V, 42V or 48V.

Since you are thinking about upgrading from 36V to a higher pack voltage, get the Super-Duty (400A/1000A) solenoid.
It works at 36V, 42V and 48V also.

I don't have a series drivem but if I did, this is what I would replace the manual F/R switch with: http://www.cartsunlimited.net/Reversing_Contactors.html

[criley]

Guys, thanks for your valuable insight.

I'm ordering one of those f/r switches this afternoon.

Charles