Wiring Multiple LED Lights to Fuse Block

[Caseyrollins08]

Ugh!! that's super frustrating! Take your time man.

[Z7What]

The MFer did it again but this time i copied my reply before hitting summit!

Originally Posted by Caseyrollins08

1 Are the negative and positive wires coming from the terminal block and running to the fuse block correct?

2 If I have changed my mind about the voltage meter and I would like it always on so I can see where my batteries are at while charging, can I go straight to the batteries main negative and main positive batteries?

3 Also, since I have an off switch for the reducer I don't think I'll also need a switch specifically for the lights. Do I have those wires running correctly?

#1 Yes the wires coming from the terminal block going to the fuse block appear to be correct.

#2 I dont see why you couldnt run the meter directly to the main battery +/- if you wanted to keep it on all the time. If you decide you want to be off when you turn the cart off you can just install in on the same wires you have supplying power to the reducer.

#3 No you dont "need" and separate switch for the lights BUT the way you have it configured now, if you ever decide to add any other accessories you would have to turn that switch on, which would turn your lights on to power the other accessories being as the switch is controlling the reducer not the actual accessory. If you dont plan on any other accessories you kinds defeat the purpose of having that nice fuse block where you could have just wired the output of the reducer directly to the terminal block. One other thing, the way you have the horn hooked up, whenever you were to turn the switch on to turn on the reducer the horn would blast. That needs to be on a separate for sure.

Also why do you have the negative input wire supplying the reducer coming off the controller and not the actual battery?

One thing thats also throwing me off because i dont have a cart and my voltage meter in front of me is the ground wire at the #85pin on the relay is coming from a different battery than the ground going to the the reducer is hooked too. Im a little confused because i cant say for sure if it will work or not i think it would work the way you have it but i cant say for sure. You have the supply and ground going to the relay coming off the same battery which means your only sending the relay 8Vs but you have the reducer grounded to the main battery negative so you should still get 48V going to the reducer but again i dont have the stuff in front of me to see if it would work.

Does any of this make sense?

Wayne

[Caseyrollins08]

Originally Posted by Z7What

The MFer did it again but this time i copied my reply before hitting summit!



#1 Yes the wires coming from the terminal block going to the fuse block appear to be correct.

#2 I dont see why you couldnt run the meter directly to the main battery +/- if you wanted to keep it on all the time. If you decide you want to be off when you turn the cart off you can just install in on the same wires you have supplying power to the reducer.

#3 No you dont "need" and separate switch for the lights BUT the way you have it configured now, if you ever decide to add any other accessories you would have to turn that switch on, which would turn your lights on to power the other accessories being as the switch is controlling the reducer not the actual accessory. If you dont plan on any other accessories you kinds defeat the purpose of having that nice fuse block where you could have just wired the output of the reducer directly to the terminal block. One other thing, the way you have the horn hooked up, whenever you were to turn the switch on to turn on the reducer the horn would blast. That needs to be on a separate for sure.

Also why do you have the negative input wire supplying the reducer coming off the controller and not the actual battery?

One thing thats also throwing me off because i dont have a cart and my voltage meter in front of me is the ground wire at the #85pin on the relay is coming from a different battery than the ground going to the the reducer is hooked too. Im a little confused because i cant say for sure if it will work or not i think it would work the way you have it but i cant say for sure. You have the supply and ground going to the relay coming off the same battery which means your only sending the relay 8Vs but you have the reducer grounded to the main battery negative so you should still get 48V going to the reducer but again i dont have the stuff in front of me to see if it would work.

Does any of this make sense?

Wayne

Does any of this make sense? JUST A LITTLE BIT! LOL



You're right, I'm going to want to add a separate switch for the lights... I was getting overwhelmed so one switch sounded better than two! lol

Regarding the B- post, I read another thread where they said it was better to run it that way because you don't have to worry about battery corrosion. Something else too but I forgot. A lot of new information for me lately.

I have to leave work to pick up my kiddo but I'm going to look at this again when I get home.

I think the easier thing for me to do would be to set it up exactly like you show without combing different diagrams because I get too thrown off! Whenever you mentioned the fuse block would go in place of where you show the fuse... Do you mean I would just eliminate that fuse and run the pos and neg of the fuse block to the output pos and neg on the reducer? I'm just going to put wires together and see what happens.

[yawood]

Originally Posted by Caseyrollins08

Alright, I've updated my diagram using both Wayne's and Bruce's drawings above and now I would like to see if my updated drawing is correct... I just want to have it all lined out before I actually start installing it. I have a couple of questions with my new drawing.

* Are the negative and positive wires coming from the terminal block and running to the fuse block correct?

* If I have changed my mind about the voltage meter and I would like it always on so I can see where my batteries are at while charging, can I go straight to the batteries main negative and main positive batteries?

* Also, since I have an off switch for the reducer I don't think I'll also need a switch specifically for the lights. Do I have those wires running correctly?

Note: Since Wayne drew out the wire location for all of my lights I didn't feel it was necessary to show each of those running to the terminal block in my drawing.

Thanks in advanced, again!

* Your wires from the terminal block to the fuse block are fine (make sure that the fuse can handle the entire lights load seeing that you have multiple lights).
* The volt meter could just come off the pack because it pulls a miniscule amount of power.
* You need to have separate switches for each of your accessories (unless they are going to be always on when the reducer is on - e.g. USB ports). The way you have drawn it the horn will sound continuously every time the reducer is on. Also, lets say you want to install some USB ports to charge your phone, if the lights don't have a separate switch they will come on every time you want to power the USB ports, even in the middle of the day.
* How are your tail and brake lights operated? The tail lights should be on the same circuit as the headlights so that they come on together from the same switch. Actually, do you have tail lights?

Edit: I just read the other posts - yes the negative of the voltage reducer should come from the B- of the controller if you have an OBC. The OBC does a Coulomb count of the energy used so it knows how long to run the charger to put it all back. If you just run the reducer from the pack the batteries would be under-charged each time which will eventually shorten the life of the batteries. If you don't have an OBC then that doesn't apply because the smart charger does all that.

[Caseyrollins08]

Bruce - I've added the switches but on your drawing you have the 48 volt on/off switch going to the 86 spot on the relay but in Wayne's drawing he didn't have a 48 volt on/off switch and he had the light switch at the 86 spot on the relay. Can both the 48 volt on/off and the light switch go to the same spot on the relay?

Also, I'm trying to add the fuse box to Wayne's drawing and I would like to see if this is correct...


*The positive and negative wires from the fuse box that I have tied into the main negative and positive wires from the batteries.

*The positive and negative wires the go from the fuse block running to the lights positive and negative wires.

And yes, I have tail lights but they are just on when the other lights are on, they don't actually have the brake function.

[yawood]

Originally Posted by Caseyrollins08

Bruce - I've added the switches but on your drawing you have the 48 volt on/off switch going to the 86 spot on the relay but in Wayne's drawing he didn't have a 48 volt on/off switch and he had the light switch at the 86 spot on the relay. Can both the 48 volt on/off and the light switch go to the same spot on the relay?

Also, I'm trying to add the fuse box to Wayne's drawing and I would like to see if this is correct...


*The positive and negative wires from the fuse box that I have tied into the main negative and positive wires from the batteries.

*The positive and negative wires the go from the fuse block running to the lights positive and negative wires.

And yes, I have tail lights but they are just on when the other lights are on, they don't actually have the brake function.

I'm sorry but I don't agree with Wayne's diagram.

The idea of the relay is to run the reducer (not to be between the reducer and the fuse box).

• The reducer pulls too much power to simply be wired through the key switch (the key switch is not designed to handle that power)
• To do that we use a relay (these are designed to have a smaller current turn them on so that they can then pass a larger current). The key switch provides the smaller current to operate the relay (via 86 and 85) and the relay then passes the larger current to the reducer (via 30 and 87). In my diagram we also have another switch on that low current side so that the relay (& therefore the reducer) can be turned off if you want to save battery power, even though the key switch is on.
• That completes the 48V side of things.
• On the 12V side the reducer output goes to your fuse box.
• That is the only wiring between the reducer and the fuse box.
• All accessories are wired to and from the fuse box (positives to the fuses and negatives to the negative buss).
• If an accessory is to be switched then the switch goes into the positive wire of that accessory.
• My diagram of the lights shows +12V and -12V coming from the fuse box and being switched to the lights (either with a simple switch or an illuminated one).

If you had a reducer with a 5th wire then it does away with the need for the relay because the fifth wire (the trigger wire) switches the reducer on and off as the relay does on a 4-wire reducer.

Think of it as two separate systems, a 48V one to operate the reducer and a 12V one from the reducer output to operate the accessories. They should never be mixed.

The relay is on the 48V side so it needs to be a 48V relay (use a T9AP1D52 available from Mouser or other places for a few dollars). The switch for the relay also needs to be able to handle 48V DC even though it doesn't carry a lot of current.

The switches used for the accessories are just standard 12V switches that you'll find in any auto store.

I hope you can follow that and that it clears things up. All the best.

[Caseyrollins08]

Alright, well, I got everything hooked back up feeling confident and I go to check the lights but I it’s like I’m not getting any power at all. I checked the battery voltage and I have 51.7. No reverse buzzer, no solenoid clock. Nodda. Thoughts?

[Sergio]

What was the final diagram You followed?

That last one You attached has all sorts of problems and will fry the converter and accessories as soon as You power it up since You have the +48v battery connection directly on the 12v output of the converter and fuse block.

[Caseyrollins08]

I followed this diagram that Yawood sent. I’ll will take some pictures here shortly.

[Caseyrollins08]

Okay, update.

While I was re-wiring the 12 volt accessories I decided to completely remove the OBC since
I have a have a MODZ charger and it would clean up some more wiring. I have the black wire from the charger receptacle going to the main negative post. But I still had the yellow wire on the negative side of the solenoid. After reading other threads I noticed that I needed to run the yellow wire to the B- post on the controller. Now my cart is running again. But still no 12 volt accessories. I’ll continue to figure out my problem there.