1994 CC Carryall 2 Vanguard 18hp motor swap build

[1989Marathon]

Originally Posted by pleighdammet

i found the motor plate to relocate the oil filter for $40 on sears.com. a VW oil filter mount for $15 on ebay. some brass hose barbs and quality fuel line and ill have about $70 in it. im not comfortable knowing I have to change the oil every other weekend I guess. im still working on this part of it but its the setup I intend to use

I went that same route originally, but was always worried about the lines coming loose, or breaking/leaking.
Although it is nice to have the filtration system, it isn't absolutely necessary.

[pleighdammet]

I understand both thoughts. If I was putting in an older used engine I wouldn't be so picky about it. Since it's new I'm looking to get that soft cuddly safe feeling. How many lawn mowers don't use a filter and people abuse the crap outta them and they run year after year

[raydhd]

They make a remote oil filter kits for ironhead sportsters.They come in frame mount and plate mount versions depending on your build.They are about $60 on ebay including the filter.Instead of using the included neoprene hose I added braided stainless steel hoses for extra security.The pre 79 ironheads had only a crude mesh pad in the oil tank.Harley then added a small automotive type spin on filter for increased engine life.There are a lot of studies in harley mags on the extra engine life by using a filter.

[Vinny73]

I intend to run a filter and intend to relocate the filter into a more accessible area. For now, I'm working on making my own motor plate as the one I got from Vegas Carts will not work in my application. Got the steel plate today. Now just gonna sit back and figure out what is gonna work best for me. I may just weld in a plate that will span the whole area.

[1989Marathon]

Vinny, did you see how I did mine with about $10 worth of 2" angle iron?

[Vinny73]

Originally Posted by 1989Marathon

Vinny, did you see how I did mine with about $10 worth of 2" angle iron?

No sir, I did not. One thing that concerns me is which side of the clutches do I align for proper motor placement?

[1989Marathon]

I ripped a 1x piece of lumber to 1-3/16" wide(or whatever the distance is between the open primary sheaves at the shaft) then set it into the primary clutch. You can float it to the centerline by feeling it by hand. I then positioned the motor so the 'stick' lined up with the centerline of the secondary clutch. It should sit right on top of the closed secondary clutch sheaves. I double checked everything and then mounted the motor there. I have run it that way for a couple years now and it works perfectly. No belt wear, belt flipping, or vibration.

[Vinny73]

Originally Posted by 1989Marathon

I ripped a 1x piece of lumber to 1-3/16" wide(or whatever the distance is between the open primary sheaves at the shaft) then set it into the primary clutch. You can float it to the centerline by feeling it by hand. I then positioned the motor so the 'stick' lined up with the centerline of the secondary clutch. It should sit right on top of the closed secondary clutch sheaves. I double checked everything and then mounted the motor there. I have run it that way for a couple years now and it works perfectly. No belt wear, belt flipping, or vibration.

I like that! That is a very wise idea for aligning the clutches!!!! The use of the angle iron is quite slick as well! I was just thinking of making one large flat surface so I could mount any other items to it for future. Amplifier, workspace lights......It would also act as a decent skit plate. The unfortunate part is, I think this plate of steel must weight 40-50 lbs. My plan for tomorrow is to put the air cleaner on and measure my clearance under the dump bed. If I have a decent amount, I plan on lifting the motor approximately 1" in the rear and 3/4" in the front. That should allow me to move the motor a little more forward. With making a different throttle setup than the normal club car, I will be able to remove the brackets from the rear transaxle linkages and have even more clearance.

[slonomo]

You can slot your holes to allow for adjustments. Most of the big block mounts that you buy have about 2-3" of slot adjustment. I have to say, I like mine, and I've used two different engines with it. Setting up the belt alignment is super easy. That way you just have to get it "close" when installing the belt. Wiggle it around to get the alignment right. I used a yard stick to align the clutches. Worked pretty well.

I've seen where guys have made the mounts with slots, they just drill two holes about 3" apart, then use a jig saw to cut a straight line between them. Voila, slots. CPP's engine mount is made from flatbar, and it's bent in several locations to make the drop. Might want to check that out.

[tjequip]

Vinny, If you want to sell the Vegas Carts engine mount let me know. I think it will work for my project.