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Old 10-15-2020, 09:37 PM   #1981
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 3
Default Re: Model year ?

So a 0413 would not be a 04.5 as I figure that's the first week of March??
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Old 10-15-2020, 10:49 PM   #1982
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Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 69
Default Re: Club Car Wheel Stud Replacement

This is how I replaced the stripped wheel studs on my CC Transender. I'm sure there are better and easier ways. An impact wrench sure would be easier, but I was concerned stripping them again could be easy as well. With the lug wrench or socket, you have the feel when it bottoms out. Anyway, this is what I did:

Wheel stud replacement for my CC golf cart

1. I used a Dremel to cut the old studs and nut off and removed them
2. I put the new studs in the freezer the night before.
3. Getting the stud behind the wheel flange and into the hole was a bit challenging and if they had been 1/4" longer, I may have had to grind them down some. But if you do, thread a nut on first to clean the threads after grinding.
4. I started with the stud hole just slightly right of TDC. You have to put the stud in head first, then wiggle it into the flange hole from the backside. At this point I had the hold it in place and rotate the wheel flange a bit clockwise to clear the brake shoe and line the stud up to pull it in through the hole.
5. Holding it in from the backside, I slipped a stack of washer, 3 or 4 over the stud. I put some anti-seize grease on both sides of the top washer, and a touch on the stud threads before putting the lug nut, flat side first, on.
6. Finger tightened the nut and used an impact driver to put enough tension on the stud to hold it in place. It would barely pull the stud into the hole.
7. I took a long Screwdriver and put it through the hole in the wheel flange and into the opening of the Brake adjuster. I could hold the flange from turning while tightening the nut to pull the stud in place.
8. I used a 4-way lug wrench to pull the stud through. The first few turns were hard, but as it started in it got easier.
9. There is a definite stop when the stud bottomed out, but the camera on my iPhone was great to confirm it was down.
10. I did all four that way and at times due to going to different holes positioning and holding the flange down got a little difficult.
11. I cleaned the brakes, put the brake drum on, used brake cleaner to clean the studs of the anti-seize grease, adjusted the brakes and put the wheel back on with new lug nuts.
One mistake was that I put the Parking brake on as a precaution, but it was on jack stands and couldn't go anywhere. What it did do was freak me out when I couldn't get the brake drum back on. then I got smart and released the brake and it went on fine.

Thanks, everyone for your input. I don't know if freezing the studs helped, but is made sense and it couldn't hurt.
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File Type: jpg Stud from the Freezer.jpg (88.9 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg Wahers Nuts and Antiseize used.jpg (150.4 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg Locking down Hub to Pull Stud through.3.jpg (86.2 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg Stud and Washers for Pulling Down.jpg (74.3 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg Stud Pulled all the way in.washers.jpg (65.2 KB, 0 views)
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Old 10-21-2020, 01:21 PM   #1983
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Default O-I_C

Originally Posted by ThreeCW View Post
wanted to share it on it's own thread as it may be helpful for others looking to pull a similarly configured wheel hub.


I posted this recently in a Cushman Hawk Brake thread ( but also wanted to share it on it's own thread as it may be helpful for others looking to pull a similarly configured wheel hub.

I made up a puller for my rear wheel hubs on my 1998 Cushman Hawk using a piece of 1/2" steel plate I had kicking around. The 1/2" plate is overkill, but it is what I had ... 1/4" or 3/8" should work just as well.

The series of pictures should be self explanatory ... of course I removed the wheel hub retaining nut prior to pulling the hub ... although the pictures does not show that.

To pull the last part of the hub, I positioned a small 1" long bolt over the axle stub and then used the wheel hub pulling plate to finish the pull.

No hammering required
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Old 10-23-2020, 12:28 PM   #1984
48/400/Alltrax HS motor
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Location: Liberty SC, Garden City SC
Posts: 6,131
Default Re: Anyone know what this is/does?

Guys is this what your hunting for?

Brake Lights to Terminal #1
12 Volt (+) Power to Terminal #2
Negative (-) to Terminal #3

GOLF CART BRAKE LIGHT 12 VOLT 30 SECOND TIMER RELAY Search 12 VOLT TIMER RELAY 10 AMPS 30 SECOND INTERVAL The timer switch will allow the parking brake to be applied and the lights will go out after 30 seconds. When the power is removed from the timer it will reset. INSTRUCTIONS (+) 12 Volt Power In To Terminal #2 Connect Negative (-) To Terminal #3 Connect Brake Lights To Terminal #1
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Old 10-28-2020, 10:03 AM   #1985
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Default Re: 48V 955E retired Hertz shuttle - collecting information

Since you are using, you can just add a single letter to the end of your image name (before the .jpg) in the URL to automatically create the new sizes, for example:

Your first picture was named:

adding an 's' gives you the smallest size
You should use 'l' or 'h' when posting.

The size options are:
s = Small Square (90◊90) as seen in the example above
b = Big Square (160◊160)
t = Small Thumbnail (160◊160)
m = Medium Thumbnail (320◊320)
l = Large Thumbnail (640◊640)
h = Huge Thumbnail (1024◊1024)
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Old 10-28-2020, 11:00 PM   #1986
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Location: Richmond, NSW Australia
Posts: 60
Default Re: '05 Precedent - Super Stuck Drive Clutch Removal Tips?

Originally Posted by Rob_C View Post
Gave it a few hits and decided the grinder was the best option.

4" grinder, thin cutting wheel, two cuts 180' apart through the half sheave and the clutch shaft. Put a cold chisel into the end and flogged it in until the hub cracked in two and fell off. Saves grinding anywhere near the end of the crank and takes a lot less time.

You can see the 5/16" bolt spiralled inside the clutch shaft, won't be using one of those again. Crankshaft thread is fine which is good.

Thought I'd add this and a couple of images to help someone else in the future.
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Old 11-01-2020, 07:57 PM   #1987
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Default Re: GTW heim joint

And while you're at it get some of these. Especially if your heim joints are teflon lined.
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Old 11-02-2020, 07:55 AM   #1988
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Location: Los Angeles
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Default Re: Any forums for AGC carts?

Originally Posted by RNajarian View Post
Hi Gang,

I just picked up a 2006 CC modified by ACG to look like a H3 Hummer. The differential was recently serviced by a local golf cart sales/service company.

On my first real test drive some unusual things happened. While driving about 15 mph the cart suddenly stopped. Iím assuming the brakes (Iím thinking the right side (rear obviously)) locked up and stopped the cart suddenly. I do not remember if I was accelerating or coasting. I do know that I WAS NOT pressing on the brake at the time. After I came to a stop I was unable to go forward via the accelerator and unable to push the cart forward. In desperation I put it in reverse, it moved with some grinding/rubbing sound, similar to brakes badly dragging. I then put it in forward and it moved with a little grinding/rubbing sound but was able to get to speed. The sound eventually went away.

As I continued to drive The sound would reappear sometimes when in reverse, sometimes when in forward. When the sound reappeared going forward I would drive a little in reverse, stop then go forward and the sound would go away. When I heard the sound in reverse (again it reminded me of dragging brakes), I would switch direction to forward and NOT hear the noise.

When I got it home I visually checked under the cart. The differential/motor looked clean as did the brake area. However, under close inspection I did notice a missing bolt that attaches the wheel to the axle. In the below diagram it is the bolt labeled #11 but bottom towards the back. Also see the photo below to see the missing bolt. The third photo is of the top of the right rear wheel. I visually checked the U bolts, they looked ok, however I did NOT take a wrench to them to see how tight they were. The cart is slightly lifted but that was done by ACG who modified the cart in 2006.

I plan on removing the right rear wheel and hope to find a brake shoe problem, but I was curious what the brain trust here thought.

Thanks for your help
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Old 11-11-2020, 07:25 AM   #1989
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Location: Melbourne Australia
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Default Re: Switch for 12 volt converter, 48v cart

If you have a 4-wire voltage reducer it is best to run it through a 48V relay. You can run the relay from the key switch or you can put in an extra toggle switch so that you can turn the converter off even when the key is on.

The first diagram shows a relay and a toggle switch but you can leave out the toggle switch and just operate the relay from the key switch. The key switch (& toggle if there is one) only carries the current needed to operate the relay (a small current) and the main relay contacts carry the larger current pulled by the voltage converter.

The second picture shows the relay that you need and the connections to it.

By-the-way, if you have a cart with an OBC you should connect your 48V negative to the B- of the controller, not to the battery terminal. The Precedent has a wire specially for this purpose (a black wire with a yellow bullet connector sitting behind the batteries). This is so that the OBC recognises how much energy is being taken by the reducer and runs the charger sufficiently to replace it. Otherwise, over time the batteries will be under-charged.
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File Type: jpg Voltage Reducer Wiring with 48v Toggle with diode.jpg (53.1 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg Relay Installation.jpg (228.4 KB, 0 views)
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Old 11-17-2020, 07:20 PM   #1990
What the ....?
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: N.E. Wisconsin
Posts: 13,357
Default Re: Kawasaki or Graziano Rear End?

Any transaxle from 1997 to around 2012 was a Kawasaki clockwise rotation "Unitized Transaxle" on a gasser,
Graziano's were a flip/flop on electric carts in a lot of cases.

From your 2nd pic, it looks like a unitized transaxle,
with a pic from the clutch side, It'll probably look like mine...

Attachment 212075
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