1995 Club Car DS - electrical help

[GA_bbco]

Hello.

My 1995 Club Car DS wasn’t running for a month. I decided to replace carb, gaskets, fuel pump, spark plug, ignition, and coil.

It ran and no issues for about a month. Then suddenly on a drive, it stopped and wouldn’t turn over.

Here’s where I need help. I replaced the micro switches and solenoid and here are the readings

While key is on

Solenoid
193 ohms large Terminals
9.2 ohms small Terminals (while key off)

Micro switches
.4 for the one on top with 2 prongs
2.4 bottom with black wire and 3 prongs, one not used.

Does this tell me anything and what else should I check? It sounds like solenoid clicks, but may be micro switched.

How do I check the starter?

Thank you for any help!!!

[Fairtax4me]

What’s your battery voltage? Connections at the battery are clean and tight?

You can’t check resistance (ohms) with the circuit energized. So no, this tells us nothing really.

Two switches on the FnR lever.
The first (toward the front of the cart) is the reverse buzzer switch. It only activates the reverse buzzer and has nothing to do with starting so it can basically be ignored.
The second (towards the rear) is the start limit switch and also acts as a kill switch for the coil when the shifter is in N. This really should have three wires on it, but that’s not really important right now. As long as one of the wires is green, and one is black.

If you’re not sure if the solenoid is clicking put your finger on it. You should be able to hear it and feel it clunk.

If you feel it clunk:
Set your meter to DC voltage, 20v range if it does not auto range. Meter black lead should go on battery negative and stay there for these tests. Check for 12v on Both large posts of the solenoid. Then check for 12v reaching the starter generator on the White cable terminal at the SG. If no 12v at the starter generator, but do have 12v on the Red cable at the solenoid, solenoid is bad. If 12v is present the White cable at the SG, the SG has a fault and will need more testing.

If the solenoid does Not clunk:
With key On check for 12v on the Blue wire on the small terminal. This is 12v in from the key switch. If no voltage here check the Fuse in the fuse terminal block. If the Fuse is OK and no 12 on the blue wire then you’ll have to pull the dash panel to test the key switch wiring.

At the solenoid check for 12v on the Orange wire. 12v here indicates the solenoid coil has continuity and should be able to activate the solenoid. If no 12v on the Orange wire, but 12v IS present on the Blue wire, solenoid is bad.

If 12v on the Orange wire: With the FnR lever in either F or R (or with the yellow cam in maintenance mode and shifter in N), Press the pedal and the Orange wire should drop to 0v. If it does drop and No clunk from the solenoid, the solenoid is bad. If it does Not drop to 0v, then we can test the throttle cam limit switch and the shifter limit switch.

[GA_bbco]

Thank you so much for the reply and info! Here’s what I found

Solenoid can be felt with the clunk.

Key off:

Solenoid large Red: 12.5 like battery
Other 3 are zero with key off

Zero at starter generator, but shows continuity?

With key on:

Solenoid: red and both small at 12.5, zero on large white

SG: zero even with key on

However , While pressing gas down, small wire on SG shows 2.5 on meter
Larger cable on SG bounces, but it’s about 11.5 on meter.

Appreciate it!