92 CC DS gas, convert to lithium electric rebuild thread

[Fairtax4me]

You can extend the snubber mount but then it will hang down in the middle of the cart. Why not ditch the cradle entirely? If you keep it you’ll have to extend the mount downwards, otherwise your leaf springs will always be in a binding position and will be pulling down hard on the section of the frame where the snubber meets and you’ll destroy the snubber bushings constantly and have squeaking and rattle noises.
It’s not needed for any of the electric swap. Without the cradle you can cover the entire bottom of the battery tray area all the way back to near the axle with one flat sheet of plastic of your choosing to prevent water/mud intrusion.

The brake cable mount/spring pack tie plate you need can be ordered from Club car.

[NCPW]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

You can extend the snubber mount but then it will hang down in the middle of the cart. Why not ditch the cradle entirely? If you keep it you’ll have to extend the mount downwards, otherwise your leaf springs will always be in a binding position and will be pulling down hard on the section of the frame where the snubber meets and you’ll destroy the snubber bushings constantly and have squeaking and rattle noises.
It’s not needed for any of the electric swap. Without the cradle you can cover the entire bottom of the battery tray area all the way back to near the axle with one flat sheet of plastic of your choosing to prevent water/mud intrusion.

The brake cable mount/spring pack tie plate you need can be ordered from Club car.

This was my thought exactly from my prior post. You'll have so much area to work with and build a custom enclosure that those of us with stock electric DSs could not due to positioning of the frame rails.

[Jkerle]

If your not dead set on a battery box yet toy with this idea. I wish I would have I might even go this route on the current cart I'm redoing.

Diamond plate aluminum tool box! Add a weather seal around the lid and use cable glands (cord grips) to pass cables/wires through. It will save you a ton of fab work and the material costs! A tool box the size I needed was 150 bucks. Material cost alone for diamond plate aluminum was 50 bucks for 12x24in sheet.

[izzybird]

Originally Posted by Jkerle

If your not dead set on a battery box yet toy with this idea. I wish I would have I might even go this route on the current cart I'm redoing.

Diamond plate aluminum tool box! Add a weather seal around the lid and use cable glands (cord grips) to pass cables/wires through. It will save you a ton of fab work and the material costs! A tool box the size I needed was 150 bucks. Material cost alone for diamond plate aluminum was 50 bucks for 12x24in sheet.

I’ve been shopping the internet and local repurpose stores for a cheap underbody or utv toolbox, there are a lot of shapes and sizes out there. Like you said, just the material is as much or more than a used one.

[BBBHC]

I was thinking of ditching the swing arm. I still might. For now though I am going to keep it. Once I get it built and drive it around, then I might end up ditching it. As I currently have things, it really is not in the way. Time will tell though...

[BBBHC]

Well I got a little more work done. I had built the cage for the battery pack out of angle aluminum, with sheets of hdpe on the sides. The cage just contains all the battery modules and doubles as mounting points to the strapping I bent up and mounted to the framing of the cart. The plastic may end up being used to mount electrical pieces, but also for protection.

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Here is a picture from when I was doing the mock up for all the components, just showing how I lowered the battery pack into the frame. Glad I spent a lot of extra time with the mock up. It definitely made the final fitting of everything go much smoother! I used some bigger angle aluminum with allthread and what I believe are called sammys. They are used with Unistrut and for hanging large HVAC systems. If anyone is interested in seeing that, I'll put that back together and post some pictures.

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Here is a couple pictures with the battery pack finally mounted where it will live. I left the ends of the front strapping long for now. Have not decided where I want to cut them off yet. Might be able to utilize them for some mounting points for other components.


As with the rest of the cart, for now the hardware I am using is just what I have laying around. I am waiting until the end of the build to figure out how many of what sizes I need, then will get all grade 8 fasteners.


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[NoleFan4Ever]

What's with that chain-fall/Come-along hanging there. Pick that dang thing up and sit it in there!

Looking really good - Nice Craftsmanship!

[BBBHC]

Now I want to figure out my wiring and such. Thinking I want to keep it basic. However, I don't really know the pros and cons with the different setups I have seen from others' builds on here. Any opinions and information would be greatly appreciated!


I'll be using a CC wiring harness for an IQ 2003 The rest of the components I have are in my sig.


This is the part of the build that is beyond my comfort level. My understanding of electrical is very limited! Thanks in advance for any help!

[NCPW]

Simple and Sepex on a gas turned electric cart doesn't go too good together.

Why not Series drive since you said you'll be using this cart for hunting and maintaining your hunting lease?

[BBBHC]

Originally Posted by NCPW

Simple and Sepex on a gas turned electric cart doesn't go too good together.

Why not Series drive since you said you'll be using this cart for hunting and maintaining your hunting lease?

How would a series drive system benefit me over the IQ setup? Tahoedawg helped me with deciding on the setup after talking with him about how I will be using the cart.


I also want to figure out how I will wire up the battery pack. What components to use and so on. I have noticed many others on here have used LV/HV relays or shut offs. I don't think I want to do all of that, want a more basic setup. Any recommendations on components and such?