1997 DCS Only Goes in Reverse (R=Reverse, F=Reverse)

[Kentonjl]

Hi All!

New to golf carts and I've been working on a pretty neglected 1997 Ezgo DCS (F&R switch by knee and switch on controller cover) with unknown history. I've been lurking for a while trying to glean as much info as I can, and I have learned a lot, but haven't come across my exact problem...

The cart will only go in reverse.

It doesn't matter if it is in F or R, the solenoid clicks and the cart backs up (no buzzer). The batteries have been replaced.

I have moderate electrical/mechanical knowledge and have been working on some diagnostics, but I'm not super confident so please bear with me.

- When I switched the F1 and F2 cables, the cart will do the same thing but going forward.

- Battery side of solenoid has full battery power, controller side of solenoid only has 1.7 volts (I understand it should have no less than 3.0v less than battery side)

-Controller Connector Diagnostic

Pin 10 = Battery Reference
Pin 9 = Bat. Ref.
Pin 5 = Bat. Ref. (Pedal down, solenoid clicks in F&R - only reverses)
Pin 7 = Bat. Ref.
Pin 2 = 14v
Pin 1 = 0.4v

So based on that, do I have a bad controller? And/or a bad resistor/diode unit? Is there anything else I can try?

Thanks in advance!

[DestinBeachBuggy]

I had a similar problem with mine. Some times it would have trouble moving in a direction, other times only one direction. I replaced the two small micro switches on that FR knob by your knee. Buy them online, they are way expensive on EZGO sites.

[kgsc]

Diagram for the DCS is here http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...g-manuals.html

Sounds like your reverse micro may be stuck closed. If I remember right there is one micro that closes on F and R and another that closes just on R. If that one is stuck it will always think it is in reverse.. Check I believe pin 4 for pack voltage in F. If yes, I say bad switch

[Kentonjl]

Thanks for the responses guys.

The micro switches were one for the first things I checked (I think... those are the switches opened/closed by the cam of the F&R lever, right?)

Anyways, the individual switches ohm out fine. The driver side switch is closed when in F and both driver and passenger sides close when in R.

When in F, pin 4 has 0.0v, when switched to R, reads pack voltage.

[kgsc]

Sounds like a bad controller.. If you want to stay stock I think someone recently had a used one for sale in the parts threads. Alltrax is a plug and play replacement in after market..

[DestinBeachBuggy]

I know when I pulled my switches off, you could hear a click when you pushed on them but never checked whether the contact was truly closing. They were cheap enough just to replace, mine is an older cart too.

I have a DCS cart too with a new controller on the way this week. My old one works fine, just wanting more speed, so upgrading. Might be worth testing on my old one before you bought a new one.

[Kentonjl]

I was really hoping it wasn't the controller...

I feel like I'm getting different solutions from the diagnostics. Checking all the pins, it seems that the controller is good, and the incorrect voltage on the controller side of the solenoid points a bad resistor/diode unit. But by switching the F1 and F2 cables, it suggests that the controller is bad.

I was thinking, since switching the F1 and F2 cables switches the direction, could I just install an inline double-pole-double-throw switch to control F&R? Could that be a semi-permanent fix until I'm ready to invest in a new controller? Or could it cause irreversible damage to something else...?

[Kentonjl]

Destin, how much would you want for your old controller?

[SHRINER]

check the plug between your its and controller, when mine got wet would only go in rev. til it dried out. I have a 97 dcs too.

[vagabond]

Originally Posted by SHRINER

check the plug between your its and controller, when mine got wet would only go in rev. til it dried out. I have a 97 dcs too.

my 96 will do the same thing if I'm not careful when I wash it