2010 RXV Problem

[jon21588]

Encoder replaced with zero change.

Kind of leaning toward wiring harness. Was hoping this wasn’t the issue.

I’m still kind of confused about the reverse buzzer continuity from the troubleshooting guide. Definitely do not have continuity from pin 10 to 13, but the reverse buzzer works normally. Run/tow switch works correctly as well.

Anyone have any ideas?

[ojo]

Originally Posted by canterburya

Based on my experience, this is a classic symptom of a bad bearing encoder. It is a pretty straightforward process to replace it. Plenty of info on the forum regarding replacement. You do have to remove the motor from the cart. The wires that go from the motor to the controller come out with the motor.

The motor is a very heavy beast... but i don't think that you've to remove it! The bearing encoder is placed direct behind the brake.

[canterburya]

Another thought on your issue, if the input shaft coming out of the rear diff has excessive wear on it there will be too much free play in the meshing of the shaft gear and the motor gear teeth. This can give false readings to the controller and cause erratic behavior in the motor. Just FYI!

[jon21588]

Input shaft seemed tight when I took the motor off. There is some play in the differential but doesn’t seem excessive.

Is this normal? I never hear the brake click when turning the key on, but it does release the brake when throttle is pressed. The wheels turn when it’s jacked up, but it’s not enough to even move the cart with the wheels on the ground. When it does work right, I can’t hear the brake on key switch but I do hear the twist test.

If the cart doesn’t pass the start test, it’s not supposed to unlock the brake when pressing the throttle right?

The ohm test on the brake switch checked out, but did throw some weird numbers when pushing the button to check for open.

The ground from the controller to solenoid spikes to 36v then drops to 26 and stays there.

Throttle and brake sensors checked at the controller are returning voltage within the guidelines.

Motor temp sensor ohms out at 589.

I ordered a cheap oscilloscope to test encoder signals to make sure. I am going to call around tomorrow to see if someone has a handheld I can rent.

Thanks for your input everyone. I will figure this thing out eventually. (I hope)

[canterburya]

Keep pressing on. You will figure it out eventually.

[ojo]

Here's the description of the power - on sequence ( from RXV Danaher troubleshooting guide ):

The car will perform the following checks during the first
second of initial key – on.
Electric brake check – Controller tries to rotate the motor
¼ turn in both directions.
Park brake check – Controller disengages and reengages
the park brake.
Reverse alarm check – Controller sounds the alarm for
100ms.
Charger inhibit check – Controller checks the charge
receptacle for connection to the charger.
Throttle switch check – Throttle switch must be open to
pass the start up test.
Throttle position sensor – Controller checks the TPS for 0%
throttle. .38-.56 volt
Throttle operation check – Controller checks the TPS for the
correct open and closed range. .5-4.8v

The car will not run if the controller detects a problem
with any of the circuits above.

[jon21588]

Everything on the list checks out except the motor test and the brake unlocking/locking. I’m fairly sure when it’s operating correctly I don’t hear the brake do anything on start up. I’m done with it until I check the encoder and I’ll go from there.

It’s hard to believe I could be unlucky enough to receive a defective encoder, but I did read about another guy getting a broken one. His was not oem though.

[PingEye3]

Turn KS on and complete the startup sequence. Then check voltage on load side of the solenoid going to controller. If voltage is lower than battery voltage, replace the solenoid. At the club, the last three fleets of carts have all been RXV. 99% of all problems I have found over the last few years were all solenoids. That is the first thing I check and rarely ever need to do anything than replace the solenoid. Yours would be this style with the Danaher controller and 36V.

https://www.amazon.com/Dr-Accessorie...%2C195&sr=8-13

[jon21588]

Thanks for the reply. Voltage is the same as pack when switch is engaged. Two small posts ohm out at 108 ohms when wires are disconnected.

I took the brake off and figured out that it is attempting the twist test, but with hardly any power. It doesn’t even move the wheels. I can take my hand and hold the motor.

Every battery cell checks out with a hydrometer.

I ordered the oscilloscope with overnight shipping, but I don’t believe it got shipped yesterday. Maybe I’ll have it tomorrow.

[sleeplesstwo]

What is your rough location?