G1 primary clutch maintenance

[BLES]

Rookie looking for some pointers from the experts here...

Working on a G1 with the early style clutch. Cart worked ok but a bit jerky (not smooth shifting) through the speed range. Pulled it off and disassembled it. Everything looks decent but wondered if there are any common things I should be looking for.? I noticed that the weights seem to be quite loose (wobble) on the pivot pins. Is this normal or should they be just loose enough to pivot? Bearing feels smooth but is fairly stiff.?

Are these clutches supposed to be lubed or run dry? Seems they should have some lube but that might just make everything stick.?

Any advice anyone has is greatly appreciated.

BLES

[spriddle]

I'm sure it is worn if its original. Just lightly hand grease all the rollers and moving parts with a good bearing grease. The slipping could be a weak clutch or worn belt. I would start with a belt unless yours is new. You should also check the rear clutch and grease the bushing inside the inner sheave. There should be a grease fitting on the inner sheave around the triangle part. One or two pumps will do. If you over grease it, it will get grease on the belt and cause a mess.

[sho305]

They all mostly run dry except the center bushing. I like to use some lube on the pins, I use superlube its like a synthetic chain lube. It collects less dirt. If the clutch is closed in then it should not get much dust/dirt inside anyway. The pins are likely worn, but I don't think you can get parts for those now. They always did jerk a little on takeoff compared to newer designs, but if you shim that big spring they will takeoff harder. They tend to shift faster, so rpm drops after you get going even at full throttle, until its all shifted out.

[BLES]

Originally Posted by spriddle

You should also check the rear clutch and grease the bushing inside the inner sheave. There should be a grease fitting on the inner sheave around the triangle part. One or two pumps will do. If you over grease it, it will get grease on the belt and cause a mess.

OK, so the rear clutch...? Just use a puller and then take it apart? Or are these the ones that you need ratchet straps, etc. to ddisassemble? Anyone got a link to the procedures?

Thanks in advance.

BLES

[caddylac camper]

One other area to check for a smooth shifting clutch is the tensioner under the left side of the muffler and the motor mounts. The tensioner keeps the motor from reacting toward the secondary clutch as the cart accelerates. If it is missing like mine was it causes the motor mounts to flex alot shortening the life of them. You will see large cracks in the rubber if they are past their prime.
On the secondary clutch you do not need ratchet straps to dissassemble but they are handy for reassemble. A puller is highly recommended for removal. When i reassembled my secondary i pushed the movable side of the clutch inward and jamed a crowbar between it and the frame to hold it as far inward as possible while i put the stationary side of the clutch on the shaft. If you are replacing the ramp shoes pull them out with pliers using a twisting motion as you pull, and drill out any that break off. Drill using a smaller diameter bit than the shaft of the shoe and a small screw driver will pry out whats left. Clean up the holes, lubricate (i used wd40) and firmly tap the new ones in. Check the bushing and seals and relubricate with grease on the movable side of the clutch. Hope this helps.

[sho305]

The secondary is on the trans, the outer sheave is fixed on a taper with a half moon key. A puller works best though other ways can get it off. Whatever you do never pry or pull on any of the sheaves they break/bend really easy and are then junk. If you have a stock spring you can push it back together by hand no problem, rotate a 4 stroke cart to preload it and seat the taper. Hold it there a second and get the nut on it. If you are not able to hold it then you will have to use a piece of wood or strap/etc. With a G2/9 the rear body comes off easily take it off if you need. G1 has no preload (rotation) on the spring you just put it on. The 4 stroke carts you need to use the right holes at end of spring you can find from wear marks usually, and then wind it up a little. If you wind it more the rpm will stay higher at part throttle. If you wind it a lot it will run full throttle rpm all the time, take more gas, make more noise, no matter where the throttle is. I leave mine pretty loose so it is quiet and shifts out at part throttle. You can add some and get better cooling as the rpm stays a little higher, if you want to.

[BLES]

Thanks for the help guys. Not nearly as hard as it sounds. Cleaned it all up, replaced the belt and sliders on the secondary and got it all back together. I did have to make a puller for the secondary, though, as my "universal" one wouldn't fit in the limited space there is in the cart.

BLES