Does OBC have any impact on speed?

[TPowell]

Hi all,
I have a 2006 Precedent IQ, I purchased it not running and have been trouble shooting everything I can think of. So far I have a new stock controller, new batteries and cables, new speed sensor and I just installed a new motor. I get 50 Volts all the way to the motor with the key on, but when the pedal is depressed the voltage gets very erratic. I'm really at a loss at this point. I've tried actual driving, and on stands with both tires and brake shoes removed. I've also done the MCOR bypass with a paperclip on the top plug, no change. The only major component that I have not addressed is the OBC. It will not charge with the club car charger, but since the solenoid engages I assumed that was the charger. I'm ready to bypass the OBC, but don't see a connection that could be causing my speed problem... I'm really stuck at this point....Please help!

[scottyb]

I'm going to give you my standard answer. It's an IQ cart, the problem is the MCOR. It sounds too simple by you should measure the MCOR signal - to rule it out.

[TPowell]

Thanks Scotty, I jumped the MCOR over with the paper clip and checked the voltage on the clip and it came in at 50 volts. Any of that change your opinion? Is there another place or process to check the MCOR voltage?

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Jumping the MCOR two pin connector with a paperclip has nothing to do with throttle regulation. It simply bypasses the MCOR and is intended as a test procedure for cars that do not get a solenoid click when the pedal is depressed. To check the signal of the MCOR, probe the white wire and the yellow wire of the 3 pin connector with the meter set to 20k ohms. You should see 6800 to 1100 ohms from no throttle to full throttle.

[TPowell]

Thanks David, That's a great tip for anyone that thinks the throttle may be the problem like me. I was just out working on the problem and decided to remove the MCOR. I sprayed some WD40 into the opening for the throttle arm and manually gave it a good 10 minute work out with a large screw driver. I then kept it disconnected and hooked up the two plugs and tried it manually, worked like a charm. Wheels were spinning way faster than ever before. I put it all back together and plan to take a cruise tomorrow to see how fast I can get it up to now. Moral of the story - Bypass is good for solenoid, but Dave's test or a large screw driver for throttle check. FYI, regardless of tomorrow's test, I'm still replacing the MCOR. Thanks everyone!

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by TPowell

Thanks David, That's a great tip for anyone that thinks the throttle may be the problem like me. I was just out working on the problem and decided to remove the MCOR. I sprayed some WD40 into the opening for the throttle arm and manually gave it a good 10 minute work out with a large screw driver. I then kept it disconnected and hooked up the two plugs and tried it manually, worked like a charm. Wheels were spinning way faster than ever before. I put it all back together and plan to take a cruise tomorrow to see how fast I can get it up to now. Moral of the story - Bypass is good for solenoid, but Dave's test or a large screw driver for throttle check. FYI, regardless of tomorrow's test, I'm still replacing the MCOR. Thanks everyone!

Glad you were able to locate your problem. Good idea to go ahead and replace it. Your fix is temporary.