'95 DCS - Erratic forward, no backwards, hot resistor!

[bigjws]

Hey guys - just got a '95 EZ go w/dcs (serial 915377) - not run in a while. Have good batteries in - here's what it does:

Lifted the rear, so on free spinning wheels -- Turned the switch from tow to run, put the lever on Forward and pushed the pedal. Pedal clicks, but don't hear one from the solenoid. Motor has a hum, then wheels might stutter forward a little. Let off the pedal, then pushed down again - this time the wheels start going for a couple of seconds, then start to stutter a little again, and the backup 'beep' will come on here and there. While the pedal is down, the resistor got so hot the insulation started smoking, and the wire from the solenoid to controller also got very hot.

When put in reverse, wheels don't move, nothing seems to get hot.

Checked service manual stuff - reading between controlled side of solenoid and neg battery terminal showed same as main battery voltage, so bad solenoid according to manual.

Does this seem right to you guys?

[scottyb]

Welcome to BGW!
It can be a simple as the solenoid not being activated. The resistor is hot because the motor is trying to draw enough amperage through the resistor to run, So all bets are off until you sort out the solenoid activation circuit shown below and get the solenoid to click each time you press the peddle..... worried some about no reverse, but that problem may or may not show itself later.

[bigjws]

Not real sure what I'm checking for...I know ms3 (can hear it click) and ms4 (horn on when in reverse) are closing. I think ms2 is working since the pedal does nothing when the lever is in neutral, but tries to work the motor when put in F. How would I sort the circuit out?

[scottyb]

With a multi meter. Start at the charge receptacle and check for 36v + along the path of the red wire in the diagram.

[bigjws]

Would it be possible to just jump the batteries straight to the solenoid to see if it activates? If so, which leads would I jump to?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by bigjws

Would it be possible to just jump the batteries straight to the solenoid to see if it activates? If so, which leads would I jump to?

Yes, you can test the solenoid coil that way, but it won't verify if the main contacts are good/bad.
Remove the wires and (anything else) from the small terminals and run a jumper from B+ to one and B- to other.

You've got a DCS and a schematic for a series cart was posted. Here is one for a DCS with solenoid activation circuit traced.

In a DCS cart, the controller activates the solenoid by applying B- to one side of solenoid coil via Pin-7.
B+ is supplied to other side of solenoid coil via the Reed switch, Run/Tow switch, F/R switch and Key switch.
From there, B+ is also supplied to Pin-6 on controller and MS-2
When throttle is pressed, MS-2 forwards B+ to Pin-5, telling controller to turn on Pin-7 (B-)