Power draw- where to look

[JPonLKN]

Hey guys,
97 EZGO workhorse, Robbin pre-mci 350.
Battery keeps dying, over night, and a matter of hours. Battery is Dec 2020, so shouldn't be it. Seems I have a battery draw. It is hot as all get out outside, so in order to save a little time...you guys have a list of likely sources to search out first?

[CP241]

Does it have lights or radio or anything on it?

Only thing you can do is set your meter to amps, hook it up between the negative battery terminal and the negative battery post, and note the draw. I’d bet it’s at least an amp or two since it’s dying overnight. and then unplug one thing at a time until draw goes away.

[JPonLKN]

Originally Posted by CP241

Does it have lights or radio or anything on it?

Only thing you can do is set your meter to amps, hook it up between the negative battery terminal and the negative battery post, and note the draw. I’d bet it’s at least an amp or two since it’s dying overnight. and then unplug one thing at a time until draw goes away.

The only thing it has is an electric actuator operated bed and stock lights. Light circuit is activated by the key. Bed is on a switch under the driver seat.

I don't have an amp meter other than a few dashboard type from garden tractors. I need to get one.

[trig123]

If you got the old style test light ( not LED ) you can disconnect the negative battery cable and connect the test light between the negative cable and the negative battery post. If something is drawing it will light the test light. Old school trick

[CP241]

Originally Posted by trig123

If you got the old style test light ( not LED ) you can disconnect the negative battery cable and connect the test light between the negative cable and the negative battery post. If something is drawing it will light the test light. Old school trick

I like to use a fog light or old school halogen headlight. They’re much much brighter and you can see them from wherever you are at in a car (or golf cart).

As soon as you unplug whatever is drawing the load, the light will shut off.

Though, a multimeter is better. I use a $12 one from Amazon every day at work and it does amperage (even though I don’t need that function for what I do at work). Best part is, it’s a $12 meter so if I lose or ruin it I won’t lose any sleep over it. Just get another one

[Cartmaster]

Originally Posted by trig123

Old school trick

Old school methods are sometimes quicker too!

If it is fitted with standard OEM lights and includes rear lights and horn, the silly fuse board on the rear drivers side inner fender is well known for corrosion. you should have a live supply to it direct from the battery ( possibly a fat white wire. ) I have known this board to track volts when old and corroded. might be worth investigating as a first place to look once you have a meter or lamp in series with the supply.

The looms on these for accessories can also be an issue. Work methodically and you will find it soon enough.

If you cant find a short, suspect the battery has possibly failed. It may take a charge and seem fine, but can lose it overnight. This week at work I have changed out three batteries and refilled one with the same symptoms. Battery going down overnight and no ignition off current draw. One had very little electrolyte in it ( definitely worth checking ) and just needed topping up to solve, One had an internal high resistance, so changed that one, two had been uncharged over winter storage and simply died when they started using the machine.

[JPonLKN]

I am ordering a VOM with amp test...I have a couple of cheap VOMs, but both lack Amps. AC, DC volts, and Resistance only.

The electrolyte was a little low, not down to the plates. Filled it up with distilled water, charged. It seems to take a charge, but wouldn't hold it. It might end up being the battery...hadn't had this issue with it before.
I disconnected the neg term. Charging it again and will monitor it to see if it drops on its own. Too hot to spend a bunch of time chasing down shorts. I have an old turn signal bulb and socket with wires I can drop in line in the neg terminal circuit to see if there is a draw...but will end up waiting till I have an early morning free again to chase out shorts, and check the starter/generator. I use the cart pretty regularly, but short trips. I'm curious if it isn't charging or maybe creating some issue. Doesn't have a direct connection to the battery unit the solenoid kicks in, so shouldn't be related to the draw, if there is one. Thanks for the ideas...time for some lake time, beers, and watchin girls in bikinis.

"Edit Update": No illumination of a standard old fashioned bulb between the negative terminal and the negative wire...must be battery.

[JPonLKN]

Well, a little update. Charged the battery...13.16 when charger indicated 100% and quit charging. That was at noon yesterday, 8 pm, the charge was down to 12.58. I am guessing the battery was just stabilizing after charge. This morning, charge was 12.51. I haven't driven it yet..this afternoon I will have to take it for a drive, and check the voltage regulator and the battery while driving. Maybe the starter generator was just not working and the engine killing it. We will see

[JPonLKN]

Update, finally got a little time to mess with it. Put another battery in and it boiled after short drive. Clearly over charging, so put the VOM on the battery with it running and sure enough, 16 volts across the terminals.

One of the few items I don't have lying around is a voltage regulator. Anyone ever buy one of the cheap ones? I realize the ignition components are suspect at best, but what about the voltage regulators?

[trig123]

Originally Posted by JPonLKN

Update, finally got a little time to mess with it. Put another battery in and it boiled after short drive. Clearly over charging, so put the VOM on the battery with it running and sure enough, 16 volts across the terminals.

One of the few items I don't have lying around is a voltage regulator. Anyone ever buy one of the cheap ones? I realize the ignition components are suspect at best, but what about the voltage regulators?

I buy the OEM's one because I can't take that chance with someones cart or mine. Good way to trash the ignitor with it overcharging.
Does the one you removed have writing on it ?