2010 G29 YDRE no solenoid click. No go.

[TXGolfer22]

I will report back once I conduct further investigation. Thank you again. This is ironic because I develop software for investigation case management but cannot investigate these mechanical things! Argh.

[TXGolfer22]

I connected the motor as you suggested and the wheels turn. The motor is fine.
I've elminated the motor, charge port, solenoid, tow switch, batteries, and fuses as possibilities. And apparently there's now real way to test the controller. I am now officially at a loss. Anybody?

[njcowboy]

Originally Posted by TXGolfer22

Hi all. I'm about ready to push this darned thing over a cliff... BUT hopefully some of you can walk me through this issue. I had an issue with new lithium batteries overheating. I believe that is solved as I bought new cables and should have proper resistance.
However, I now have no solenoid click and no movement. Batteries charged. Purchased and installed new solenoid. 3 amp fuse is good. Earlier today I DID have reverse buzzer but now all of a sudden THAT is out, too. I have a year old Moric controller in there also as it was flaky when I purchased it a year ago.
I have a multimeter but I have no idea what to test. Since solenoid is brand new, probably a controller? We had electrical storms while the golf cart was charging through the OEM charge port a week ago. Possible something fried?

I learned alot in the last couple of weeks. LOL I have a 2014. Cart started doing the same thing. Solenoid would click but no go. If I stepped on the pedal and someone pushed the cart manual, it would go. Then it got real jerky, then the reverse horn stopped working, then the solenoid stopped clicking.

Solenoid gets ground from the controller. Black/Red wire.

Just installed an alltrax 500 and solenoid. Unfortunately the motor is fried.

Cart has a back seat, 6 inch lift and big tires. Very common issue. Now I am waiting for a D&D electric 500amp motor.

No real way to test the controller. You can bench test the motor and all the parts around it. Process of elimination

[njcowboy]

Originally Posted by TXGolfer22

Thank you for that education. So, it's not the solenoid (as I tried replacing that already). It might not be the controller (as the reverse buzzer works). Since the solenoid isn't clicking and it used to click as soon as you turned the key. I'm guessing I should investigate the accelerator pedal thingy next? I don't suspect the ignition because it does light up my battery meter when turned on.

Solenoid gets ground from the controller. If you jump ground from the solenoid to the frame or neg terminal on the batteries, the solenoid should click

Sounds identical to my issue.

[Volt_Ampere]

Probably a bad controller. Does the reverse buzzer beep when you put it in reverse? If not, I would suspect a fried controller.

[TXGolfer22]

Originally Posted by Volt_Ampere

Probably a bad controller. Does the reverse buzzer beep when you put it in reverse? If not, I would suspect a fried controller.

Yes sir. I have reverse buzzer. Probably not relevant, but accessories work (headlights, horn etc). I have 44V at the tow switch. About to test the controller harness to the solenoid.

[Volt_Ampere]

44V is very low for a 48 volt battery. You need to charge it. It should be over 50V for sure.

[TXGolfer22]

I'm getting 52 at the solenoid, so I'm guessing the 40 at the tow switch is just my shaky hands. Hard to get a good connection. In any case, I had a mobile golf cart mechanic come by today and stumped him, also. He has taken it into his shop.
I will report back with the findings and final verdict. Thank you again for taking the time to respond.

[Croqezgo]

Get your wallet ready...

[TXGolfer22]

It was the Moric controller. Am installing the 600 amp Navitas. Thank you to all those who helped.