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Old 07-03-2016, 06:16 PM   #11
raydhd
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Default Re: 1976 Model D Complete Rebuild Thread

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Originally Posted by smkummer View Post
Nice, I think when I get my 1980 classic model, I may install a voltmeter where the clock is installed. I would worry that cutting the body in 1/2 would weaken a very strong body. 3 1/2 acres is perfect for these. I am on 1 acre but in a subdivision that I have over a mile of blacktop road. As for a speedo, a Nuvi GPS works really well and is a clock as well. I just installed a power port on mine for power for the GPS. Downhill on mine I did hit 21-22 and that is almost scary fast with a 3 wheeler. Its sweet spot is cruising at 12-15. I see that my new to me classis model still has the governor and is listed at 12 mph top speed.

It looks like the 80-82 model Harleys did go back to the a panel mounted fuel gauge like the pre-75 models. So that model did have a sending unit inside the plastic fuel tank. I don't know if a sending unit/float from the 5 gal. steel tank models would work is it may not be calibrated to work with the bigger 8 gallon tank.
I have tempo marine fuel gauges and sending units in both the harley and my VC 460 powered yamaha G14. It works fine in both carts.
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Old 07-03-2016, 10:13 PM   #12
jonr3
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Default Re: 1976 Model D Complete Rebuild Thread

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Originally Posted by raydhd View Post
I have tempo marine fuel gauges and sending units in both the harley and my VC 460 powered yamaha G14. It works fine in both carts.
I just looked that up. Looks like it should work well in my cart. Thanks!
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Old 07-04-2016, 03:29 PM   #13
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Default Re: 1976 Model D Complete Rebuild Thread

TAIL LIGHTS -

I just installed some new tail lights that I found at O'Reilly's. They are LED so they will use very little electricity, are submersible, and they come with a lifetime warranty.

There is a solid outer ring about 3/4" thick that glows brightly for the running light, and 6 inner LEDs that function as the brake/turn signal light. They are considered flush mount but the pliable rubber housing actually sticks out about 1/2".

I thought about mounting them lower onto the bottom flat panel, but decided on the higher location for a few reasons: I would have to cut into the metal support panel - weakening the support; I would have to cut into the rubber bumper trim; and I think they are more visible in the location that I finally decided upon.

The only real downside was that there was no template included for cutting the hole. I had to make a cardboard template by tracing around the rubber housing and adjusting as needed. Pretty slick lights though in my opinion...

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Old 07-04-2016, 04:17 PM   #14
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Default Re: 1976 Model D Complete Rebuild Thread

Looks almost factory, not that the factory ever did that back then. Nice.
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Old 07-04-2016, 07:12 PM   #15
raydhd
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Default Re: 1976 Model D Complete Rebuild Thread

Ditto that
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Old 07-09-2016, 08:48 AM   #16
jonr3
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Default Re: 1976 Model D Complete Rebuild Thread

TEMPORARY SEATS -

My seats are in REALLY bad shape, but I didn't worry about it because I plan on replacing them anyway. But, my wife told me Hancock Fabrics is having a going out of business sale so I bought some white final at 80% off. $10 to cover both seats and at least it will look better and be more comfortable until I pick out new seats.

I took the seat apart, bead blasted the back support, made a new plywood bottom, added another 1" of foam, and attached the new vinyl. Looks much better. I'll probably do the other seat this weekend, although I just picked up an extended roof for it and I'm pretty anxious to get started on making a frame. The passenger seat might have to wait a few days...


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Old 07-09-2016, 12:56 PM   #17
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Default Re: 1976 Model D Complete Rebuild Thread

EXTENDED TOP -

I couldn't wait, I just had to mock up the new roof I got. I've designed this quite a few different ways and this, to me, seems the simplest and lightweight...

There will be 4 aluminum pillars securely attached to the main cart body. This will allow the body and the top to tilt open for access to the engine. There will be one main front hoop - mounted to the front bumper, contouring part way up the front fenders, then running straight to the top. This will allow for a large fold-down windshield that will clear the tiller. The main front hoop will go up inside the front of the top - keeping water out - and will attach with quick-release pins to keep everything from rattling. That's the plan anyway...

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Old 07-14-2016, 10:07 AM   #18
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Default Re: 1976 Model D Complete Rebuild Thread

I finally got the other seat done and it turned out better that the driver's seat. I guess practice makes perfect...

Also got the top mounted to the main body using 1" aluminum square tubing and 1/8"-thick angle aluminum under the body as a support. It's very solid and since I ran the angle aluminum the entire length of the rails, it shouldn't put much stress on the fiberglass.

I got half of the front hoop mocked up last night and hopefully tonight I will get the other half done and can start welding it up.







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Old 07-16-2016, 09:43 AM   #19
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Default Re: 1976 Model D Complete Rebuild Thread

Just when I was getting ready to permanently attach the front hoop, I took a step back and decided I didn't like it. It just looked too "boxy" - kinda like a toaster. I started thinking about how Harley motorcycles have a nice, swept-back design to them.

So I made a new hoop that angles back more but still clears the tiller. Barely. This also slid the top back 10 inches which will help cover the rear passengers' legs. And the body still tilts all the way up without the top hitting the ground. Again, barely.

When the body is closed, the front of the top drops down into a channel and is held in place with 4 bolts currently. When I dismantle the cart this winter, I will change that to quick-release pins.

I still need to add some gussets for strength and to smooth out the corners and a few other little odds and ends, but the top is basically done!



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Old 07-17-2016, 11:18 AM   #20
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Default Re: 1976 Model D Complete Rebuild Thread

GAS FILLER DOOR -

My stock gas door was broken in half and instead of spending $25 for another one, I decided I would make my own and add a little more Harley theme.

I got a piece of 1/8" thick aluminum for free from a fabrication shop and cut out a modified Harley logo, then bent it to follow the contour of the body. A bunch of sanding and polishing and it now looks like it's chrome plated.

Also, here's a pic of the body open with the top attached. There's about 3 inches of clearance between the roof and the ground. Luckily, the roof and the supports are very light so they don't add much stress to the hinges and pivot points and it's still fairly easy to open and close...



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