EZGO Textron "Total Charge 111" won't auto shut off when batteries are fully charged

[GRR]

I have recently purchased this cart - a 1990 EZGO marathon 36V.
The batteries are 14 months old and have been checked by the manufacturer and are all in good condition. I used the cart for 18 holes of golf yesterday and then put the charger on. 17 hours later the charger is still on and showing about 3 amps. The batteries are gassing quite a lot.
Is there an adjustment that can be made to allow an earlier auto shut off - or - is there a voltage sensing device that may be faulty - thanks for any advice

[Todd Dolfi]

you can plug the charger into a outdoor timer that way it comes on / off automatically

[kirkroediger]

you need a new control board, go to e-bay, type"charger control board", approx. $80 or go to your cart dealer approx $100. do not overcharge your batts it will ruin them. kirk

[GRR]

Thank you very much for the quick reply and advice - I have arranged for the charger to be repaired

[gornoman]

GRR, Welcome to BGW!

New Zealand is BEAUTIFUL!

[Easy Rider]

I replaced the control board in my Total Charger III yesterday and tried it out on a new set of batteries today. The Golf Cart store told me that the batteries could take about 10 hours for the initial charge. To protect the batteries I connected the charger to a timer with a 10 hour shut off. The batteries had a great initial charge so it only took about 4 hours and my charger shut off beautifully exactly the way it was supposed to. The only problem I had during the installation of the new board was connecting the yellow and black wire to the contacts on the little black box that resides on the board. There are two black wires, a yellow wire and a red one. The contacts for the RED wire (+) and the BLACK wire (-) on the upper right edge of the board were clearly labeled just like the original board. That was simple. Now here comes the SNAFU, as usual, for us do-it-yourselfers. The two other contacts on the little black box on the original board for the BLACK and YELLOW wire were clearly labeled (NO) and (COM) respectively. The contacts on the new board had no labels and the configuration was slightly different causing some concern. After paying $82 for the new board including shipping and handling I didn't want to damage the board. I emailed the “No Customer Service Department” where I purchased the board and received no customer service as expected. I was a man on an island hence this forum. The only similarity I could see is that the black wire was connected to the upper contact and the yellow wire was connected to the lower contact on the original board so I connected them the same way on the new board, said a prayer and it seems to be working fine. Hope this helps someone out there. Here is another tip. Before removing the original board, remove the fuse, and the metal frame that houses the board. The frame and board will come out together. There are only two screws that hold the frame in place. Now remove the original board from the metal frame being careful not to lose any of the tiny washers, screws and spacers. If you don’t do this you will hear words that come out of your mouth that you have never heard before as you watch them bounce across the floor. There is always risk involved but there is nothing better than saying, “I fixed it myself and it only cost me $$$$. You know what I’m talking about?