Yamaha upgraded F&R switch

[augiedoggy]

Im still trying to figure out if a more robust switch is needed as current pulled through the switch should only decrease when the voltage goes up as far as I understand. I also spend about 2 hrs googling it and I cant find any reports of the yamaha stock 2 way switches actually burning up or failing with the 48v upgrades in any threads anywhere.
I may pick one of these up if needed. strangly the rating in the link above do not match the manufacturers speced rating on either relay (the dc182 is rated for 200amps and the sw202 is rated at 400a ) on all the other websites that sell them like amazon but im guessing scotty is rating them at peak and not rms?

[LukeL]

Most users don’t simply go up in voltage- they also get upgraded controllers and motors which pull more amperage. The stock Yamaha FnR switch is of good quality and seems to have far less problems then the ezgo equivalent, but I have seen one fail on a G8 which I upgraded with an SR48400 and a D&D motor. They also have very small studs, which makes cable upgrades a pain and less effective.

[augiedoggy]

Originally Posted by LukeL

Most users don’t simply go up in voltage- they also get upgraded controllers and motors which pull more amperage. The stock Yamaha FnR switch is of good quality and seems to have far less problems then the ezgo equivalent, but I have seen one fail on a G8 which I upgraded with an SR48400 and a D&D motor. They also have very small studs, which makes cable upgrades a pain and less effective.

thanks.. I have upgraded to the 570amp alltrax but the battery I'm running only has a max continuous output of about 270amps so I'll likely be turning it down a tad.

[LukeL]

I don’t see why the switch wouldn’t be fine in that case. When I first build a cart, I like to drive it for a minute or two, and then stop and check all the cables for heat. Then I’ll drive it for about ten minutes and check again. I don’t want anything to be unusually hot.

[Half Vast]

Originally Posted by G16Steve

Here are the parts I ordered to do my swap. Hope this helps

Definitely helps. Thanks for circling back!

[augiedoggy]

Originally Posted by Half Vast

Definitely helps. Thanks for circling back!

the "DC182" versions are typically even less at about 100 bucks if you dont need quite as much amperage....
Be aware some of these contactors are not real albright contactors but rather chinese clones ... there are sites that carry the real deal like carts unlimited as well as some vendors on ebay but they are typically a fw bucks more.

I picked up that same mjz-400a solenoid on ebay a couple weeks ago for $36 shipped.. you just have to check the pics as not all the sellers include the resistor and diode.

[Dave in VA]

Originally Posted by G16Steve

Here are the parts I ordered to do my swap. Hope this helps

F/r switch

Forward Reverse Rocker Switch Fits EZGO TXT PDS Electric 2003-Up Golf Carts OEM#74323-G01 https://a.co/d/ggda2JB

F/R contractor

Notonmek SW202 48V 400A Style Reversing Contactor Heavy Duty For Albright Electric https://a.co/d/cFh2cj3

Solenoid

Disenparts MZJ-400A Contactor Solenoid Universal 48V 400A Compatible With Heavy Duty Golf Cart https://a.co/d/8P0d2U7

Diodes

BOJACK SR560 (SB560) Schottky Barrier Rectifier Diodes 5A 60V DO-201AD 5 Amp 60 Volt Axial Diodes(Pack of 30 Pcs) https://a.co/d/eZBgDit

Just wondering why you ordered pieces/parts from amazon, with no customer support, instead of the package from cartsunlimited...(proven parts that work)

[augiedoggy]

Originally Posted by Dave in VA

Just wondering why you ordered pieces/parts from amazon, with no customer support, instead of the package from cartsunlimited...(proven parts that work)

I can only speak for myself here but COST. We all have different financial situations here as well as skill sets so its not a one size fits all solution.
I plan too order on ebay or amazon or perhaps one of the dozens of parts retailers at the typical retail price if I need to upgrade as its a pretty simple install really. If I paid double (literally) for everything I have needed so far in my cart build I would have spent thousands more for the little support / advice Ive managed to get here thus far.. If we were talking 30% markup I likely would have reconsidered.

In this case we are talking about universal fork lift reversing contactors here. I do appreciate what carts unlimited has done with the work he put into the tutorial and directions but I dont need them myself.
I deal with components like this almost ever day as a field engineer... Now if I was clueless as to how a relay or switch works or just really felt unsure about taking it on myself I might pay the extra $150-200 or so for the sw202 kit. (The sw202 style contactors are available for as little as $116) I understand most of the lower cost contactors are clones and I would be taking the risk and its why I mentioned it above.

Honestly maybe im wrong ,but from the photos on the website the contactors at carts unlimited are also clones of the genuine albright international models.

I did find that they make rebuild kits for these if its useful to anyone. https://www.amazon.com/JWDAWN-Soleno...7-857e17e03685

[G16Steve]

Originally Posted by Dave in VA

Just wondering why you ordered pieces/parts from amazon, with no customer support, instead of the package from cartsunlimited...(proven parts that work)

Mostly cuz this was my first cart overhaul and I was trying to figure out most of it on the fly. I am pretty savvy so part of my issue was cost as the Amazon stuff was much cheaper the. Most places I found plus since I was doing it alone and “winging” it with some YouTube videos if I got something from Amazon and it was wrong or something happened the option to send it back or get a new one very quickly and for next to nothing certainly helps as well… lastly I did not find this forum till a far way through my project and I’m pretty impulsive so asking quotations and then waiting several days is worse then waterboarding to me. Now that I have a pretty good handle on things if stuff craps the bed I will most likely order from a few other places for my replacement but this cart is mostly going to be used at campgrounds not like farther south where they seem to often be a car substitute so I’m thinking my usage vs quality will prob even out. Hope that helps :)

[G16Steve]

Originally Posted by LukeL

I don’t see why the switch wouldn’t be fine in that case. When I first build a cart, I like to drive it for a minute or two, and then stop and check all the cables for heat. Then I’ll drive it for about ten minutes and check again. I don’t want anything to be unusually hot.

I replaced my switch because one of the terminals broke off as well as I upgraded my controller to a 600 amp and I plan to upgrade my motor as well and with it being a series cart all the same amperage goes thought that f/r switch as well and I didn’t want that being a weak point or melting down a few hrs from home when we are camping! Hope this helps :)