1990 Par Car Engine runs, but cart won't move

[90ParCar]

Compression is at 105. Tested it with a compression tester this weekend.

[90ParCar]

gwarrior 69......did you replace the secondary clutch or rebuild it with new rubber "points"?

[Lochlin]

You're making good progress. Compression is right where you want it to be. If you are sure you are getting good spark then throw some gas into the cylinder and see if it will jump a bit for you. Starting fluid will work too.

If that doesn't work check your reed valve to make sure all of the reeds are in place in functioning right. The reed valve is located between the carb and the motor. It is a one way valve that allows air to flow from the carb to the engine but prevents it from flowing backwards from the engine to the carb. You may know that already I just thought I would throw it out there. Oftentimes, if the reed valve is failing you'll see some gas working it's way towards the air cleaner due to the backflow. Not all of the time though.

If the reed valve is good then, by process of elimination, you pretty much have things narrowed down to those crank seals. There is a test that some guys use to try to test the rear crank seal. While the cart is trying to run spray some starting fluid in the area between where the primary clutch and engine meet. This is where the back crank seal is. Having the starting fluid suck in can get the engine to jump thus pointing to the bad seal. I have replaced several sets of seals on a few different carts and have never had luck with this test though. Unfortunately, since the front seal sits under the fan / ignition module area there is no way to test that one. Those seals are a PIA to replace btut it is what it is.

Those rubber stops on the secondary have nothing to do with cart functionality. They are only there to make sure that clutch doesn't hurt itself when it collapses.

[90ParCar]

Sprayed a little bit of starter fluid into the cylinder last night, then put a new spark plug in and tried starting it. It "jumped" a little bit (not much) then sprayed it in the carb with no reaction at all.

[Lochlin]

Could be the reed valve, probably the seals. Those seem to be going around lately:

As the cart jumps just a bit when you manually add ether to the cylinder almost certainly indicates that your motor is capable of running if it's fuel delivery was good. It becomes an issue of what is causing your "no fuel" problem.

Rather than repeating information over again you may want to look at this post:

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/gas-c...fuel-pump.html

There is a good amount of detail there as to why crank seals are so critical to fuel delivery.

Just another note on it: Crank seals have pliable vinyl-like components that set against the crankshaft to not allow the critical engine vacuum to escape. These vinyl-like components naturally lose pliability and crack over time. Their required replacement is very common with these engines.

[backyard]

I don't know how much bad crank seals would affect compression but that is excellent compression. Try taking your muffler off. If it is clogged up it will affect your engine.

Did you clean out the carb or rebuild it?

Crank the engine over and while it's cranking spray a little starting fluid in the intake. If the engine wants to run, spray a little more starting fluid in the intake while your still cranking it. Keep repeating this procedure to see if the engine wants to run with the starting fluid. What your doing here is assuming your carb isn't giving gas and your giving it gas by using the starting fluid. If it wants to run, then your carb isn't working right.

[90ParCar]

Finally got back to working on the golf cart a little bit tonight. I just cleaned the carb when I had it off before, didn't rebuild it. I have taken the muffler off before as well and there was no change. Tonight I pulled the carb back off (left the diaphragm on), sprayed starter fluid into the intake while trying to start the golf cart and still no change. Didn't even try to start.

[backyard]

If you are positive you have spark and compression the engine should have at least tried to start or done something when you sprayed starting fluid in it. Kinda sounds like there is a big hole in the block letting air in and out. Are the crank seals completely blown out?

What diaphragm are you referring to? The reed valves?

Just take the plug out and lay it on the engine so it grounds itself and see if it is sparking. Forget the spark tester.

[Lochlin]

That really sounds like bad crank seals. I am in the middle of my 5th restoration project and 5 for 5 needed seals. With the most recent one the little gasket spring thing in the front seal was completely missing.

Assuming they have never been replaced they are 26 years old. It's very common.

[90ParCar]

Sorry I meant the reed valves. Is there a good way to check the crank seals before pulling the motor and tearing it apart?