99 EZ-GO TXT - Eco Battery w/ Factory Lights

[js99ezgo]

Hello,

So I've upgraded my cart with Scotty's 48TXT conversion kit. I also moved to the 105ah Eco Battery kit with the 12v reducer.

I waited to install the 12v reducer and made sure everything is running, charging, etc and everything is great. I highly recommend working with Scotty and Carts Unlimited but unfortunately they were out of stock for batteries.

My issue is with figuring out how to provide power to my existing factory lights.

There was a green stranded off the old rear center battery (+) headed to a fuse box. Then a separate red/black (+/-) off the passenger side batteries.

The install is supposed to send a wire to the key switch, which I assume is to the lights position (my switch doesn't support the eyelid on there so swapped to spade). Issue here is I had green, red, and black coming off batteries before and it's not clear how it's supposed to be wired.

Anyone have experience with trying to use the factory lights/wiring like this when moving to a single lithium battery? Any help here would be great as I'd like to get the lights working again

[Volt_Ampere]

You need to find your light power wires and connect them to the 12V output from your reducer. If you had 8V batteries before, the lights may have been wired across two of the batteries and there may be a 16 to12V converter somewhere in the harness. You need info on your particular light wiring harness to figure this out.

[js99ezgo]

I had 6 6v batteries as it was 36v cart pre upgrade. I guess what's confusing is the green goes to the fuse box which goes up to the key switch from there. I guess I need to just rip off the sheathing and possibly just rewire.

[kgsc]

Factory lights usually came with the battery gauge on the dash as well so had a harness for it. There was a black wire on the negative of the back battery on the passenger side. A red wire on the positive of the front battery on the passenger side that fed the gauge and then the green wire that connected to the positive of the back center battery for 12v +. The red and black should be in a loom on the passenger side. You need the black one for your ground. The green wire routes to the fuse block on the drivers inner fender. Be warned that the black wire that used to go to the gauge will be a ground for the 12v circuit so shouldn’t be used for a new gauge.

[Volt_Ampere]

If you had 6x6V before, it's very likely that your lights were just wired across two batteries to get nominal 12V. Just hook those two wires to your reducer 12V output and you should be fine.

[js99ezgo]

Originally Posted by kgsc

Factory lights usually came with the battery gauge on the dash as well so had a harness for it. There was a black wire on the negative of the back battery on the passenger side. A red wire on the positive of the front battery on the passenger side that fed the gauge and then the green wire that connected to the positive of the back center battery for 12v +. The red and black should be in a loom on the passenger side. You need the black one for your ground. The green wire routes to the fuse block on the drivers inner fender. Be warned that the black wire that used to go to the gauge will be a ground for the 12v circuit so shouldn’t be used for a new gauge.

This seems to be exactly how mine was wired. So, should the green coming off center rear positive go to 12v + coming off the reducer along with the old red that was on the passenger side + while the converter black should go to the old passenger side negative? Or am I going with only the green on 12v + and ripping out the old passenger side positive?

I have a battery meter direct from the eco battery so I'll be taking the old one out.

[kgsc]

Green goes to the reducer 12v + out. Red isn’t used. Black goes to the reducer 12v - out.

Option 2 is to hook the red up to the reducer 12v+ and then use the red and black wires behind the key switch for a 12v outlet.

[js99ezgo]

Originally Posted by kgsc

Green goes to the reducer 12v + out. Red isn’t used. Black goes to the reducer 12v - out.

Okay that makes sense. So this orange that's supposed to go to key switch +. Should it not splice to the blue/white since the 12+ is headed to that fuse box?

[Volt_Ampere]

That orange is expecting switched 48V from the battery plus. (not 12V)

[kgsc]

VA is correct.. Not sure how your cart is setup but the orange wire needs pack positive to turn on the reducer.