Gov. Removal On 303447 Briggs

[mopar92]

Can you explain the compression release action. I know how it works on chain saws, etc... Being manual and all. Can you explain it on the Briggs? I'm not planning on turning my engine anywhere near that hard, but a lot of cars with larger diameter flywheels have turned more than 5,000 without explosions. I didn't say it was smart, but I don't think a Briggs Vanguard flywheel is going to come apart 500 RPS over the governed speed. Good write up on this... It helped me...

[mopar92]

The compression release has its own rivets and setup? What's the harm in just removing the weights?

[Factory-Fit]

Do you remove all the compression release stuff as well? According to another thread this spoils the even tickover if the decompressor is left in. A friend with the decompressor removed in his tuned up smallblock has the heavy duty starter, I imagine this is needed when battling the high compression pistons he has.

Nice of that man to show all the sequence photos; I nearly left that brass pivot bush in place until spotted it when pulling the governor shaft. It's an easy fit so would have ended up wandering around the motor's innards.

The Performance Vee Twins cam is supposed to run oil out to the main output shaft bearing, I've got one on order and according to them it is hollow to do this. Was that Bull sh*t and is the hole there anyway?

The Mudbuddy cams made from solid blanks stay solid, BPS say the shaft is stronger that way, anyone advise?

Kev A, UK

[Factory-Fit]

Re all the talk about flywheels

If you lift a wheel or whatever you might get to big revs, the comments by guys warning of the safety aspects of cast iron flywheels means it made sense to want a test for peace of mind.

Mudbuddy or Backwater Performance Systems run these motors to 5100 or 5200 using their own electronic governor, in case the boat leaves the water on a jump. We all could fit one, I'd cut 18mm off the rim to get three kilos weight down, and to make sure the magnets could still be contained by the rim it had to be spun at a safety margin above this speed.

After lots of looking on ways to do this safely, it dawned that the answer was right on the doorstep. poking through the manual showed the stock starter motor reaches 6,500 rpm without load. I put a 5/16" hole into the tail bush of the starter, drilled and threaded the shaft end inside 1/4", and put a threaded rod into it. By drilling the middle of the alloy pull start adapter and bolting that to the flywheel, then inserting the starter motor's threaded rod into that using locknuts, I could hang the starter and flywheel and spin it whilst hiding behind a wall, using my Motorcycle battery, fully charged.

Here's the test on Youtube:- http://youtu.be/Or_qP5qIXU8

It's England, hence the dull weather...

Just after that I proudly showed the movie to Al Hodge at Performance Vee Twins; he advised that one in three of the flyweheels are batch-tested to 12,000 rpm. As I'd cut mine down though, the test was still worth doing. Al did say, never use impact wrenches or hit the flywheel, and beware of used flywheels without history.

Any use?

Cheers

Kev
UK

[terryt77715@yahoo.com]

Can you remove the compression release without anything bad happening? I know the electric starter may have a harder time rotating the engine over. My timing is stock and stock compression ratio.

[Factory-Fit]

Some excellent videos by British Hovercraft and Flying Fish

Hope this lets me post links

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6nlUMtZUcgk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cx7x65mtvtk

Cheers

Kev, UK

160 hours now continuous 4000rpm

[terryt77715@yahoo.com]

Nice youTube videos. I figured out my previous question.

[BIKERMIKEYBLACK]

I took the gov out of my 18hp vanguard I ground off the 3 pins holding the weights also removed the sleeve shown also took die grinder to the fork thing on the pivot rod that comes out the top although I don’t really think that’s necessary those videos posted on the above link is for a Big Block vanguard 35hp and they are different

[slonomo]

Figured I'd add to the thread. I just recently tore into my 16 and removed the governor and added a cam from CPP. Here's what I did.

I removed the governor shaft, cut the fork off, then reinstalled the shaft, super easy solution. No tapping, no bolt, no sealant. I actually still use the throttle linkage arm that attaches to the shaft, so for me this was the best thing to do.

[slonomo]

I also upgraded the cam to the one from CPP. This eliminates the governor flyweights for me, since the new cam isn't used with the governor. Nice upgrade btw, I highly recommend it. Hopefully you'll be using the CPP rev kit as well, see pics.