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Old 08-13-2021, 08:42 PM   #11
nedlyped
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Default Re: 18hp Cushman Haulster ('77) - rough runner

I think that really might be it too (ballast resistor). I dropped a piece of solder to make connector stick a bit better and it seems to run better. The connection still rattles even with it soldered and taped down, so it's not quite right yet. The replacement part is on the way!

Thanks for tip of wiring diagrams. I actually got all my lights and electrics going while waiting for a brake cylinder replacement. Hi/low, front turn signals, hazards, horn, and I put on an aftermarket tail/stop light. Just don't know what mystery "on/off" toggle switch is, but making it an on/off light switch makes sense. My hi/lo works and is on floor too, but for my smallness (woman, 5' 1") it works for me. I have a few misc dash lights not quite sure what they are. 2 work currently, red one that clicks on when key is "on" or in "equipment" positions, green for oil maybe? Hi/low indicator light needs to spade connectors put on, but I am pretty sure it works. I'll be getting aftermarket rear turn signals soon, probably a secondary tail light.

I've been looking closely at your avatar, particularly the bed and deck. Looks good! I want to build something similar.... we'll see. I have some old deck material and such around, I'll see what I can devise. Stake pockets, was wondering what those were and where you got them. I have another idea in my head of how make the bed, so I may run with it. I also have an old wood trunk I am thinking of repurposing.

I am deciding if it's worth trying to fabricate some fenders, I don't have any in the rear. Will get deck built and see how I feel about it.

BTW, in looking at info, mine comes up as a Haulster (org yellow - undercoat of my frame - and were used for industrial/commercial), but it's basically the same config as yours.

Another Haulster just came up for sale near me. It's hard to say "no", I really just want parts of it! Good thing I have a small garage.

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Old 08-14-2021, 11:24 AM   #12
CharleyL
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Default Re: 18hp Cushman Haulster ('77) - rough runner

If you look way back in my earliest posts you will find photos of my Truckster. Here is a link to it.

https://www.buggiesgonewild.com/show...light=CharleyL

The thread shows both the before and the after photos of my Truckster. With several walk around shots, so you can see all sides both before and after.

Can you post any photos of your Haulster? I would be very interested to see them.

The ballast resisters get too hot for solder connections. Nut and bolt through crimped ring terminal works best. Add a lock washer if it loosens.

The proper wiring for the coils is in series. From the ket switch to + on first coil. - on first coil to + on second coil, and - on second coil to points. I forget where the ballast resister is in this.

The fenders on the back of mine are just Diamond Plate bent in several points to form the shape. Quite easy to make if you get Aluminum Diamond Plate. Scraps from a fabrication shop would be the cheapest source. You can cut aluminum diamond plate with a table saw if you put on full body armor. Safety glasses, face shield, buttoned up to the neck long sleeve shirt, leather apron, a sturdy hat like a baseball hat, and solid shoes like sneakers, leather boots, etc. The chips coming off the cut are very hot. Use a slow feed and a high tooth count carbide toothed blade, not your best blade because it may need sharpening later. I use a dead man foot switch when doing this, so when s##t happens, you can turn and run and the saw will shut off when you lift your foot off the switch.

If you need quite a few parts and that other Cushman is in rough shape it might be worth $100 or so to get it. Body parts are pretty much only available from another similar Cushman now. I bought a 1989 three wheeler to get motor parts and offered the body for parts. A guy bought only the body and front wheel and I kept the transmission and differential with the rear wheels as well as the motor, which was in such bad shape that I didn't get much worth having from it. I bought another motor that had a broken valve, but under the grease and mud was a reasonably complete motor with useable parts. I have dis-assembled and cleaned these two motors, and saved the good parts. If you need anything, let me know. There are no good cylinders and no mechanical fuel pumps. Carburetors and linkages don't exist either. The rest are mostly in zip-lock bags and stashed in wooden crates in my garage.

Jacobsen Farm Equipment once owned Cushman for a couple of years, and they still had a good library of Cushman manuals when I last checked, so that's another source to try if you find the need. You may get an original manual or a photocopy, but either way is a big help.

That supplement from www.sillylittlecars.com is the most important that I found. I am a member there and helped get those Cushman manuals into their library. Most of the members there are on the West Coast and the site creator is in San Francisco. The GO-4 vehicles are the way most have gone now. Parts for the early GO-4 models are getting hard to find now to, but the GO-4 is a much higher class ride than Cushman. Some even have air conditioning and real heaters since they are powered by either Ford Fiesta or Hyundai 4 cylinder liquid cooled motors.

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Old 08-16-2021, 11:57 PM   #13
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Default Re: 18hp Cushman Haulster ('77) - rough runner

Well, interesting developments....

I put in a new ballast resistor (part number #580601 per parts manual, ordered from Cushman parts place) and weirdly my Cushman WON'T turn off? It runs better/stronger, but the only way for me to "turn it off" is to stall out. I turn the key to "off" position like all previous times and it just keeps running. What the heck? I am going to put old one back on and see what happens. Ballast, on mine, is located near coils, mounted on back of flywheel case.

I wish the other Cushman was selling for $100, I'd buy it if it were. It's a lot more, if I had the room I probably would grab it.

Will check out Jacobsen, thanks. I am familiar with Silly Little Cars & have def. lurked the forum, Bay Area is my neck of the woods. The GO-4s look fun, but I prefer the older models.

Your photos - love the evolution. The bed is very cool. Here are a few of mine.



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Old 08-17-2021, 10:58 AM   #14
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Default Re: 18hp Cushman Haulster ('77) - rough runner

I like the paint job on the cab. I have paint for mine, but haven't painted it yet. No color change planned though. Do you have doors for it?

There were several differential gear ratios available. The off road, greens keeper versions had lower top speeds and more pulling power, even a 2 speed differential. There was also an intermediate and then the highway ratio. If yours can do 30+ at 3600 rpm it has the highway gear ratio, but higher top speeds also equal lower pulling power. These vehicles were grossly under powered, so highway use and higher speed ranges produce almost no pulling power.

Looks like same gas tank and tires as what I have. The tires this size are easy to get. The proper rims are a different story.

I don't think I can help much with your electrical problems from here. Did your ignition switch go bad, maybe? Disconnect it from the coil and check for voltage to ground with the key both on and off. On in both positions would indicate a switch problem. During start, many vehicles have a wire from the switch that bypasses the ballast resistor for full voltage to the coils while the starter is turning, then this over voltage circuit turns off when the starter is released and the motor is running with the ballast resistor in place. I'm not sure if this exists in your Haulster wiring, but something to check for.

You need to pay close attention to the motor temperature controls. There are damper doors on either side of the flywheel that are operated through linkage rods from bellows assemblies in the air ducts to the cylinders. These bellows assemblies go bad and will overheat the cylinders by keeping the doors from allowing cooling air to get from the flywheel fan to the cylinders. I couldn't locate replacements for the bellows, so disconnected them and blocked the damper doors wide open by drilling and threading holes right next to the damper doors in the front engine flywheel casting. I then installed large head bolts in these holes so the head of the bolt would catch and hold the damper door in the full open position. They may help the motor warm up quickly when working properly, but they fail in the door closed position and allow no air to cool the cylinder. If I use my Truckster on a very cold day I just let it idle for a few minutes when cold. Then use it all day with no problems.

The fins on the cylinders and the block of these engines must be kept clean for the engine to run and cool properly, but doing without these damper doors is better than having them fail. Your Winter temps are about the same as mine here in NC, so you should be fine without them. Maybe less cab heat, but without doors you don't get any anyway.

The tail lights appear the same as the originals on mine. The lenses are still available. I brought the broken one into O Riley Auto and they matched it up with their on-the-shelf stock perfectly. The previous owners had not wired them correctly, so I fixed them. Now both the marker light and stop/turn work perfectly. Then I added the additional lights to the back of the cab, up high like the GO-4 models.

You have a 3 wheeler, so it has a VIN number and requires a license plate and insurance if you want to use it on the highway. The 4 wheel version was never type accepted for highway use, so they don't have VIN numbers and can't be licensed and insured for highway use. So many States either classify the 4 wheelers as "Golf Carts", "Slow Moving Vehicles", or "Farm Vehicles". In NC, they seem to accept them as "Golf Carts", but the NC vehicle rules for these classes seem to have been written by someone who never even saw what they were writing rules for. May gray and hard to understand statements in them. I decided to equip mine to satisfy all three classes, so I have flashing yellow lights, farm slow moving vehicle signs, seat belts and rear view mirrors, so the requirements for all three are covered. I have never been stopped or questioned about them, and the police have come up behind me and followed for a ways, then passed me and waived to me several times. I stay off primary roads and even secondary roads with speed limits above 35 mph. It has been as far away from my home as 35 miles a couple of times, but I bought it mostly for maintaining my 3+ acres and 1,600' of lake shore, so it doesn't see highway use very often now, but did when I first restored it. There is a Lowes and a Walmart Shopping Center about 2 miles from me, and a gas station about 1 1/2 miles away, and those plus a few fast food sources are about the only places that I go with it now. It's usually when I'm using it and decide that I need something. Rather than switch to my pickup or Grand Cherokee, I just drive the Truckster there. Every time, when I come out of the store, it has drawn a crowd. The first words out of someone is almost alway "What the H**L is that thing?" and I have to explain it. Then the question about gas mileage, and my answer, "about 62". Then, where is your license plate? "I don't need one". All this before I can get out of there and back home to finish what I was doing.

I have a trailer for it. It's one of the little 4' sq. Harbor Freight trailers. It had a similar style bed on it that is in my Truckster, but it was built to tow behind one of my vehicles and the bed wasn't built well (by my #1 son), so I tore it off and decided to repaint the frame before building a new bed for it that will be made and look like the Truckster bed this time. But health problems put an end to that and most other work around here about this time last year, and I'm only now getting back to about where I was a year ago. I'm still playing catch up.

Charley
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Old 08-18-2021, 12:56 AM   #15
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Default Re: 18hp Cushman Haulster ('77) - rough runner

I like the paint on mine too, lucky! No doors, luckily the weather is really fair in CA. I am thinking of building some kind of guard rail where doors would go though. Took someone for a ride with me and they almost flew out of cab when I took a turn! This 3-wheeler can really make some tight turns.

Turns out the new resistor was wonky for me. Just kept my Cushman "on" even in the key off position. Wild. Put the old one back in, no problem (just runs choppy). Luckily the company I got resistor from is sending me a replacement one for free.

Bellows assemblies are gone on mine. I didn't even know what those holes were for - the square-ish dual box near flywheel, lower assembly where tubes would go. Once you described them it all made sense — heater exchange. Cylinder head / fins are clean - I took my shop vac to it first thing when I got it.

I have a 2nd tail light coming and will eventually get rear turn signals. Might just use motorcycle turn signals. Spied a few trailer turn signals, but they are bigger than what I want. All my lights and electrics are working great now, they were not great a few weeks ago.

Yes, my 3-wheeler is a Haulster and street legal. Luckily it came with a plate, but it's been no-oped for a while. I am looking into getting it fully licensed and insured. Most of these in CA are licensed as motorcycles, but mine is marked "commercial" like a truck. Not sure why, I don't have the history of the vehicle. I think going over 35 mph is a bit hairy! So far I am just cruising my little neighborhood while I get it running right. Yes, folks LOVE to stop and talk about this thing, the color seems to really draw folks.

A trailer! I never even considered that, makes sense. Once I get the bed built I'll be able to do errands and such in it. I really am enjoying this thing.

Here's to your health! Glad you are feeling better and turning the corner. Thanks again for all the info and your expertise, you've been a real help to me.
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Old 08-18-2021, 11:39 AM   #16
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Default Re: 18hp Cushman Haulster ('77) - rough runner

My seat belts came from the rear seat of a Jeep Country that was sitting almost completely stripped of everything else in the used parts yard. Getting them out required a Bristol Socket, large 3/4 socket wrench handle, and a pipe extension. They came out, but with maximum effort. Having seat belts is almost a "must have" if you don't have doors. Another option is to put padded sides on the seat to keep your butt from sliding off.

The tail lights are dual filament. One low bright for the running light and one brighter for stop and turn signal. I decided early on not to run in the dark, but still wanted my Truckster to really be seen, especially from behind. That's another reason why I added the lights on the back of the cab. These cab lights are single filament, so the running lights are separate lights from the stop/turn signals up there. The original running and stop/turn signals are still there at the back edge of the rear body and work too, but I had to increase the fuse size by a couple of amps when I added the additional lights. When I was installing the wiring to them, I added a wire pair for a headliner light in the cab too. it has a switch on the light, but I wired it into the accessory position of the key switch circuit too, so I can't run the battery down if I should jump out, taking the keys with me.

The Silly Little Cars group has had their share of problems getting insurance in CA. If you have problems, maybe they can help you. I bought liability insurance for mine the first year, but then found out that my home owners policy also covered it like a riding lawn mower and yard utility vehicle, so didn't bother with the separate insurance. Why pay for the same thing twice. The beauty of having them registered as a motorcycle in SF is that you can park in designated motorcycle spaces. Here, I'm on the edge of a small city and traffic is always quite light, so they haven't even designated any motorcycle spaces anywhere yet. I'm handicapped, so I have a handicap parking permit for that, which usually gets me a space close to where I'm going anyway.

I sent you a PM with more information. Look at the top right of your screen for "Private Messages" and click on it.

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Old 08-19-2021, 02:06 AM   #17
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Default Re: 18hp Cushman Haulster ('77) - rough runner

Yes, some kind of safety needed for my Haulster on the mean streets! I was thinking of getting a wider seat too. I've seen a few Cushmans with extended seats.

Hopefully with my Cushman licensed and plated as a commercial vehicle, it will be easy to insure. Fingers-crossed.

Ugh, on another topic, the new electric fuel pump I put it died already. I just matched it up to the one that was previously there... worked great for 2 days (with old ballast resistor in place again until replacement comes). I made sure to get a low psi pump, but the cheap pump should have tipped me off. It was too good to be true. Do you happen to know what PSI I should be looking for? I have read 1.5-4 PSI should be ok. Do you know what brand pump you are running?

Thanks!

Another push up the driveway, but that's part of the fun.
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Old 08-20-2021, 11:42 AM   #18
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Default Re: 18hp Cushman Haulster ('77) - rough runner

My seat is full width, minus a few inches on the left for the gear shift, manual choke, and power take-off, whose shaft is broke off where it exits the transmission. No matter, because I have no use for it anyway.

Fuel pumps don't do well when inhaling rust and dirt. A filter between the tank and electric fuel pump is an absolute must. Both filter and fuel pump need to be as close to the height of the tank outlet as possible, because the pumps do not have much lift capability. I bought my pump from O Riley Auto parts. It's designed for use on full size cars, so has more than enough pumping capability, but I don't know it's actual pumping pressure. I think they are 6-8 psi. A small metal inline filter came with it, and I did have problems with air leakage through the crimp of the two pieces of the filter, so my automotive inline filter is now the only one in the line between tank and pump. I just tossed the metal one with the leaking crimp.

Even though you think your fuel tank is clean inside, I'm willing to bet that it is rusty and rust flakes are getting into your fuel pump. My tank had a 1/4" thick layer in the bottom. The KBS tank cleaner and re-lining kit, plus a hand full of crushed 1/2" gravel added during the cleaning process along with a whole lot of shaking, got rid of the rust. Then the re-lining liquid that comes in the kit solved my tank rusting problems. Your fuel tank that is likely 44 years old just has to have rust and sand in it. Today's automotive fuel usually has 10% alcohol in it, so moisture readily unites with it just like the DOT 3 brake fluid, whenever it can. This also contributes to tank rusting, now that didn't before they started adding the alcohol.

The photo in my avatar shows my rear fenders. I don't think there are original, but are just made from a strip of thin Diamond plate bent like
___/----\__ , well, that's the best that I can draw with ASCii characters. They are each bolted to two pieces of angle that extend out from the frame, one ahead of, and the other behind, each wheel. Quite simple to make, and no welding for side flanges are needed. I don't think these are original Cushman, but more likely made by the previous owner who had made the wooden bed.

I bought my Cushman from a woodworking friend, after seeing it decaying away behind his woodworking shop. It had been his dad's, who had been a Cushman scooter collector. It, and his dad's scooter collection had been moved to his place after his dad died. The old guy was quite good at building things, his son is too, so I think most of the fabricated parts on it were made by his dad. His son had no use for the Truckster, so it had been parked on the edge of the pine forest and had sat there for 13+ years before I had asked to buy it from him.

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Old 08-26-2021, 03:28 PM   #19
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Default Re: 18hp Cushman Haulster ('77) - rough runner

You're right my fuel tank is funky - I added 1 gallon of fuel from the gas station and that seemed to kick up a lot of crusty stuff. Ugh. I am now thinking of eventually getting a new tank and relocating it under bed (as well as battery box). For now, I got a NEW pump and am running a fuel filter between the tank and filter as you suggested, but it's not always getting enough fuel into carb?

I like your fenders, they look great!

I keep having "little" things happen with my Cushman. Things rattling off (connections to ballast or spark plugs), flat tire, etc. Every time I take it out for a spin something happens, it's good though, it means going through it carefully.
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Old 10-17-2021, 12:24 PM   #20
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Default Re: 18hp Cushman Haulster ('77) - rough runner

Howdy! Well, I seem to have my Cushman running fairly well, now it won't SHUT OFF?!

The ballast resistor had a faint crack in it, so I replaced it with a new one and suddenly my rig wouldn't shut off (with key off position and with key out of ignition). Put the old resistor back in and it shut off, put another new one in - same shut off problem. Finally the old resistor with crack broke in half, so I have to use one of the new ones and now my Cushman won't turn off.

The only thing I have changed out is the ballast resistor, anyone have any ideas? Thanks in advance.
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