HD Fw/Rv switch replacement:please advise

[kmartz]

After researching on BGW I have come to the conclusion I still don't know what I need. My current set up is a 700amp Alltrax controller, D394 GE motor, 48v hd solenoid, original fw/rv with hd buss bars, and 4 gauge cables. I am experiencing heat (too hot to touch) at the fw/rv switch on long uphill pulls as well a warm cables. I was advised to convert to a pair of HD 6 pole solenoids to replace the currrent fw/rv. My researching here leads me to discover two other options. One is an Allbright heavy duty reversing contactor (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53...item84b71b3a78). The second option is a Nanfeng 400A Contactor w/ Magnetic Blowouts (http://www.evsource.com/tls_nanfeng.php) and Tyco Kilovac 500A 320VDC LEV200 Contactor (http://www.evsource.com/tls_kilovac.php). I am looking to avoid the heat at my current fw/rv set up. Which of the three set ups will achieve this and still not compromise performance or potential heat situations at the fw/rv switch in the future? Anyone with firsthand experience? Any info will be greatly appreciated.

[wizardket]

I was just looking at a reversing contactor also at Contactor ZJWT Reversing 400 Amp 48 Volt @ $120. I was just getting ready to post on this to see if it was a good idea. Only issue I see is it is not sealed and may be easily contaminated.

[madoc1]

two thoughts. check with scottyb on hd solenoids. also you might think about going to 2 ga. cables. also scotty has humongus bus bars for that set up. 700 is a lot of amps!

[rib33024]

Yes contact scottyb he will set you up with the right switch, and he is a sponsor

Carts Unlimited
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/ads/c...Odz09&z=20&d=1

[scottyb]

Western made carts with BIG motors and controllers and did a partial upgrade on the cable set and ended up in the same boat. One customer could smell the heat the other could feel it in the F&R handle.
I conducted temperature tests before and after the switch cam and the completion of the upgraded cable set.... the results were conclusive. Bottle-necking amperage flow or any place of resistance results in heat. How much heat depends upon the demand and supply. This is what I found;

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/gener...t-too-hot.html

[kmartz]

Scotty,
This is what I gather from your western cart experience.
1. Correct and matching cable size is parmount for performance.
2. An hd f&r switch will perform better than a stock switch.

I understand the bottlenecking creating heat. Now, what I don't know is.....Is a stock f&r switch with hd buss bars equal to a complete hd f&r switch? Also, going to 2g cables will help warm or hot cables, but won't that put more amps at the bottleneck(f&r switch)? Lastly, what f&r switch mentioned in my first post is the largest bottleneck to let amps through? You guys answering my questions have forgotten more than I know.

[rabbitreborn]

Stock F&R with HD bars is perfectly acceptible IF the stock plate hasn't already been damaged by heat. Otherwise, you should get the complete unit.

My personal method of choice is to use the 2 6 pole W.R. 586 solenoids. I have built MANY an off road buggie that climb the mountains in Georgia and have yet to have any of my builds fail under SERIOUS load.

[ab46501]

I am only running 36v and 500 amps but I went through major issues with the heat in the FNR switch. Just changing to HD buss bars with 4 ga wires did not do it for me. I went with 2/0 gauge cables (overkill I know but it was free wire) and a entirely new cam and switchplate. I also was able to piggyback the original thin buss bars on top of the HD ones. No issues now even after long runs it is slightly warm but not at all too hot to touch.

[scottyb]

We had issues too in some of our bigger amp suckers with the HD buss bars which is why we went back to the drawing board with different alloys and improved designs for our new Ultra Cool Switch Cam... Tests showed a significant reduction in operating temps with the new switch cam...

[kmartz]

ab46501 Re: HD Fw/Rv switch replacement:please advise

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I am only running 36v and 500 amps but I went through major issues with the heat in the FNR switch. Just changing to HD buss bars with 4 ga wires did not do it for me. I went with 2/0 gauge cables (overkill I know but it was free wire) and a entirely new cam and switchplate. I also was able to piggyback the original thin buss bars on top of the HD ones. No issues now even after long runs it is slightly warm but not at all too hot to touch.

Is it advisable to put both stock and hd buss bars on a f/r switch? Does it help with improved flow of electricty and less heat?

rabbitreborn Re: HD Fw/Rv switch replacement:please advise

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Stock F&R with HD bars is perfectly acceptible IF the stock plate hasn't already been damaged by heat. Otherwise, you should get the complete unit.

My personal method of choice is to use the 2 6 pole W.R. 586 solenoids. I have built MANY an off road buggie that climb the mountains in Georgia and have yet to have any of my builds fail under SERIOUS load.

Rabbit,
Do you find that 2 W.R. solenoids perform better than an hd f/r switch?