Club Car DS cutting out at full throttle

[Andersonz_]

I will try to be as descriptive as possible with the little info I have or know. I am not a genius when it comes to golf carts, but I do have an extensive mechanical background. I recently acquired a cart from a buddy who had done some work and lost interest. It is a 94 DS 36v. All new batteries(6v). New wires that I believe are 4 gauge...he said 2. New D&D motor... it is blue and model number 170-012-0002. New orange 400a solendoid. New Curtis(what I was told) 500a controller, that I think he bought from eBay/China. He said it was programmable and has a little port on the side of it.

The problem it is having is that when you floor it, it goes, cuts out, goes, cuts out, etc. every 3 seconds or so. If you only use 1/2-3/4 throttle it will run fine, obviously just not powerful or fast. Swap the stock controller in and it runs fine, just lacking in the power department. No cutting in and out.

Now I have done a little research and realized he didn’t upgrade the F&R switch. Could that be my issue? Can anyone program my controller if that is the issue? Do I need to buy a different controller? Not looking for the fastest thing on earth, just want a well rounded reliable cart. I plan to use it to get back and forth to my shop.

Thank you in advance!

[WalterM6]

Just guessing but is the controller intended for 48v operation? Might be cutting out because of low voltage. If your batteries are due to be replaced upgrade to 48v. But if it works with the other controller you can settle for it.

[NoleFan4Ever]

Walt makes a good point, and also what is a key factor is the throttle setting for that controller. It has to be programmed or setup to work with your V-glide or whatever you have now.....

You will need a Curtis Hand-Held programmer to look into it, but you will not find it at the Local Autozone. You will need to check with some local CC dealers/repair shops and see if they have one.

If you look on the controller, it should state the model, voltage and amperage.

[Andersonz_]

Thanks for the replies fellas. That is a good point. I’m not sure if it’s programmed for 48v as he said he purchased it off of eBay...ugh.

The batteries are almost brand new so I want to keep them for now. Not looking for a race car here ya know. Just something to get me back and forth to the shop.

The car is v glide, I looked into that and made sure the wiper switch was touching every panel like it should. I’m under the impression the v glide club cars work 5k-0 ohm, the reverse of ezgo. I have a golf cart place nearby that I might give a shout tomorrow to see if they have a hand held.

I’m attaching a picture of what I have. I mean when you turn the car on and press the accelerator 30% it goes and feels like it would be powerful, but then Cuts out over 3/4 throttle.

[Roxyflash]

Take the throttle signal wires off the controller along with the pack voltage wire the three little spade terminals put your meter on ohms on the throttle wires the bottom two then work your throttle see what’s its doing

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by Andersonz_

Thanks for the replies fellas. That is a good point. I’m not sure if it’s programmed for 48v as he said he purchased it off of eBay...ugh.

The batteries are almost brand new so I want to keep them for now. Not looking for a race car here ya know. Just something to get me back and forth to the shop.

The car is v glide, I looked into that and made sure the wiper switch was touching every panel like it should. I’m under the impression the v glide club cars work 5k-0 ohm, the reverse of ezgo. I have a golf cart place nearby that I might give a shout tomorrow to see if they have a hand held.

I’m attaching a picture of what I have. I mean when you turn the car on and press the accelerator 30% it goes and feels like it would be powerful, but then Cuts out over 3/4 throttle.

There are several settings in that controller that have to be set to correctly operate with your cart. Here are some of the features and capabilities.

It is fully programmable via Curtis hand-held tools or Curtis PC
programming software model kits 1314K.

Supports multiple throttle types and high pedal
disable (HPD) options.

LED output for easy system troubleshooting via
flash codes.

Fully programmable analog throttle input for precise
speed control with a variety of signal sources.

Programmable under voltage cutback caters for different
battery types.

Programmable, variable, or fixed plug braking modes.

Plug braking diode internal to controller.

Models available without A2 busbar for applications such
that do not require plug braking.

Programmable High Pedal Disable function prevents
controller operation if throttle is applied before key is
turned on.

Contactor fault detection: controller shuts down safely
if the main contactor opens.

Contactor protection functions minimize high current
arcing to prevent contact pitting and thus prevent
contactor weld failures.

Under voltage cutback and shutdown functions protect
against low battery voltage, including low voltage caused
by external loads.

[Andersonz_]

That’s pretty neat. I found a place that rents the handheld unit for $40 per month. Not bad. I’m pretty proficient in tuning vehicles so I think I could do it. That is, if I can’t find a shop to do it for around the same price.

I ohm’d out the v glide. I used my neighbors multimeter as my fluke is at the shop. I don’t know if his meter is broken, or my v glide is wrong. Pedal up I get close to zero ohms. I then get approximately 350 ohms and gradually steps up until the top contact pad, in which I get about .939 kOhm. Which is 930 ohms if I’m thinking right? I get nowhere close to 5k like I’ve been reading. Why?

[Sergio]

The 94 DS used a 0-5kΩ throttle (Club Car never used a 5k-0Ω rheostat throttle).

The 36v with a 0-5kΩ throttle system uses a micro-switch on the FNR that places a 5.1kΩ resistor in parallel with the throttle when in Reverse.

Disconnect the black and white wires from micro-switch #3 (The furthest one from the FNR body) and measure it again.

Also make sure the wires are disconnected from Controller terminals #2 and #3 when you measure the resistance on those wires.

[Andersonz_]

Originally Posted by Sergio

The 94 DS used a 0-5kΩ throttle (Club Car never used a 5k-0Ω rheostat throttle).

The 36v with a 0-5kΩ throttle system uses a micro-switch on the FNR that places a 5.1kΩ resistor in parallel with the throttle when in Reverse.

Disconnect the black and white wires from micro-switch #3 (The furthest one from the FNR body) and measure it again.

Also make sure the wires are disconnected from Controller terminals #2 and #3 when you measure the resistance on those wires.

Charlotte, huh? Not too far from me!

I did what you said. I did see the black and white hooked into the fnr. I still get the same values. I’m not sure if the meter is just bad or what.

My values are: 0, 350, .509kO, .634kO, .751kO, .831kO, .932kO

[Sergio]

Those readings are strange, re-check them with your Fluke meter and if they are still in that range, You need to take the VGlide apart to make sure the wiper arm is moving freely and what value resistors are installed.

When you measure the resistance between the wires connected to Controller #2 and #3 terminals, check in both Forward and Reverse to make sure there is a reduced range in Reverse.