Big Blockin a G1

[mikeasis]

I have been dreaming of it and finally pulled the trigger and bought a Bravo 250 sled engine. I'll be copying an old thread but will probably have questions. I do wish the fellow that did this was still around on the forum. heres the thread.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/big-b...lockin-g1.html

Now I need to figure out if I want to put it on the jacked up 84 or the stock 80. My wife loves how the 80 handles but when I bought it I fully intended to stretch it and with that it would need the extra oomph. first thing was removing the oil injection system and the gears for it. The bravo engine drives the oil injection system off the crank like the G1 but instead of on the clutch the gear is pressed onto the crank. I drilled two holes in gear, tapped them and then used a bar puller to remove it.

[mikeasis]

Maybe stretch the big one for a limo cruiser or widen the stance of the 80 with wider wheels and some wheel spacers and make it a rocket. now I need to source an exhaust. Not sure how long this is going to take. first up is to clean the engine and replace the crank seals. then fitment. I belive....belive its a direct bolt on but honestly don't know. The crank snout maybe different and offset the clutch. I do have an extra G1 engine stand I can modify so that helps. This is such a great forum I look forward to sharing both good and bad of the project and look forward to your expert advice or just opinions as the project progresses.

[dezrcr822]

Right on im looking fiward to your build. Is the Bravo a piston port engine as in no reed valve?

[sho305]

There is a lot of good info here also. Slonomo knows a lot about it, not sure how much he is on here now. He ended up swapping other engines in his cart also. There is some difference between and enticer and a bravo, the bravo is newer and likely more common. Some use a blaster yami atv pipe, but not sure how well that works. There is a ton of info here on it if you keep looking, how to swap the ignition pickup and all that, what works and what does not. Just remember you wont get the power without the pipe, and the pipe can be cut and rotated to fit, welded back up.

[mikeasis]

Originally Posted by dezrcr822

Right on im looking fiward to your build. Is the Bravo a piston port engine as in no reed valve?

yes sir. no reed valve

[mikeasis]

Originally Posted by sho305

There is a lot of good info here also. Slonomo knows a lot about it, not sure how much he is on here now. He ended up swapping other engines in his cart also. There is some difference between and enticer and a bravo, the bravo is newer and likely more common. Some use a blaster yami atv pipe, but not sure how well that works. There is a ton of info here on it if you keep looking, how to swap the ignition pickup and all that, what works and what does not. Just remember you wont get the power without the pipe, and the pipe can be cut and rotated to fit, welded back up.

I read through slonomo's write up as well. After a lot of reading I decided to go with the bravo engine because its supposedly has more friendly power curve than the enticer engine. When I bought the engine I was only expecting a bare engine with pull start assembly. I also go the carb and intake, stator assembly, and engine stand so I still need to get the bravo exhaust. Id love to find a bravo primary cheap just for comparison reasons.

[sho305]

Probably a good idea, and they are newer. The sled engines because of the track tend to engage at higher rpm like 3K minimum to get moving, its harsh for a wheeled vehicle, so most want to tame them down. You still need to get the revs at WOT if you want max power. Which will be 5-7K depending on the engine. But the 250s would run around 50mph in a sled, not dogs. You might be able to find what rpm they ran, they also raced them in a stock class there is info there.

[dezrcr822]

Originally Posted by mikeasis

yes sir. no reed valve

Ok, why I ask is I looked into doing this with the Enticer stuff, read the other members builds however, I did not read them all the way to the end where they sold the project or never updated and bought all the parts I needed I was looking into the issue and it seems the piston port needs revs to build power. Then clutching and rear diff are another area to get right to make it all work and not have to rev to the moon. Not wanting to give up I found a guy that converts piston port cylinders to reed valve to build power down low in rpm range. He mills the intake portion down, makes a flat rectangular surface and cuts a boost port in the cylinder then builds a reed cage and bolts it all together.Of course pipe tuning is critical. I have money burning a hole in my pocket so I will go this route later this year The stock G1 clutch engages at 1400 rpm and the Enticer at 3400 rpm. Im hoping to cut that in half so to speak with a reed valve conversion and in doing so im thinking clutching should be a little easier to tune. Im hoping you make your combo work as a G1 with the hot 250 would be a riot to drive.

[mikeasis]

found an exhaust that needs the flange welded back on for 68.00 shipped
now I need to get the crank seals and start that. probably going to have to set up the cart up to idle with this setup. maybe pedal start and key off?

[mikeasis]

I've got parts ordered. This is not going to be a bolt on deal. After stripping the motor I reread the link in my first post and could have found that there. Been sometime since I read that but I also follow a G1 facebook page and a fellow stated the Enticer and bravo where direct swaps. I'd LOVE to have a complete enticer engine for comparisons! The G1 engine in the following pics is always on the right unless upside down lol.

Notice how the G1 engine mounting(bottom) is angled and the bravo sits up straight. The crank on the flywheel side is exactly the same. The crank one on the flywheel side is one inch longer on the bravo. Notice in pic 2 I have a engine plate bolt out of the bravo engine on the left side. These bolts are also the case half bolts. The bravo engine splits horizontally while the G1 splits vertically. The mounting bolts on the bottom of the engine have different bolt patterens.