2007 pds new controller & solenoid still wont move

[DeLong]

All started when I swapped 4g cables to 2g. Cart would occasionally slow for no reason so I did cable swap. Replaced one cable at a time in tow mode with batteries disconnected. After swap I switched to run and heard a faint click. Cart wont move. No solenoid click but something clicks under cart when I push the throttle. Put it in diagnostic mode and it said bad controller. Bought a altraxx xct400 & 200a solenoid from Scotty. Installed and still have same condition. Altraxx status light wont light but I have pack voltage at solenoid. Checked wiring at least 5 times. Replaced f/r switch with no improvement. Checked the key switch and Im not getting pack voltage on either wire. 2 wires-white and yellow.

Sorry for long post. TIA.

[Volt_Ampere]

Hook up your laptop to the Alltrax and run their diagnostic software. It will show all of the inputs and status of them.

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by DeLong

All started when I swapped 4g cables to 2g. Cart would occasionally slow for no reason so I did cable swap. Replaced one cable at a time in tow mode with batteries disconnected. After swap I switched to run and heard a faint click. Cart wont move. No solenoid click but something clicks under cart when I push the throttle. Put it in diagnostic mode and it said bad controller. Bought a altraxx xct400 & 200a solenoid from Scotty. Installed and still have same condition. Altraxx status light wont light but I have pack voltage at solenoid. Checked wiring at least 5 times. Replaced f/r switch with no improvement. Checked the key switch and Im not getting pack voltage on either wire. 2 wires-white and yellow.

Sorry for long post. TIA.

There should be power to one of the 2 keyswitch wires. The power comes from and goes back into the main harness connector at pin 9 and 10. You may have a bad connection at the main harness pin. Pull the connector out and look for a burnt plug or a loose wire.

[DeLong]

Originally Posted by scottyb

There should be power to one of the 2 keyswitch wires. The power comes from and goes back into the main harness connector at pin 9 and 10. You may have a bad connection at the main harness pin. Pull the connector out and look for a burnt plug or a loose wire.

Did what you recommended:
Pins looked good. Wires have continuity. 9volts on the yellow wire. 0 on the white. With key on both show 9volts.

Edit: I goofed with the volt meter. Didnt have good ground. I have pack voltage at switch.

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by DeLong

Did what you recommended:
Pins looked good. Wires have continuity. 9volts on the yellow wire. 0 on the white. With key on both show 9volts.

Ignition voltage should be full battery (+)

[DeLong]

Originally Posted by scottyb

Ignition voltage should be full battery (+)

There is pack voltage at switch. I messed up. Sorry to waste your time on that.

Any other ideas? Thanks again

[DeLong]

Retraced wires and found a small red wire pinched between the controller and heat sink. I think its for the reverse horn. Wires too short and Im out of splices.
I wouldnt think that would keep it from running. Stand by.

[Volt_Ampere]

Did you hook up your laptop yet? That will tell you what is going on.

[DeLong]

I just found the cable I needed. Thats my next move.

[DeLong]

Update: Turns out original motor was shot. Got a mot b2 from scotty installed. Have the correct field map installed too. Goes great in reverse and takes off great in forward but the top end is very slow.Alltrax blinks 4 times wihich is ITS throttle diagnostic code. The alltrax monitor shows 100% throttle when floored but speed sensor is 0. I did pinch the wire short of the connector so I spliced that as well. The plug in the controller seems loose and I did have to splice in the new speed sensor at the motor. I checked my crimps prior to heat shrinking and they were snug. Any suggestions? New cable?