01 DS Speed Issue Despite Solenoid Replacement

[brownlm0411]

I own a 2001 Club Car DS 48v electric. I recently started having issues getting the cart up to speed. Normally it tops out at 15 mph but lately it's consistently only topping out at 8 mph. I replaced the solenoid several weeks ago which temporarily solved the problem. A week after replacement I was back to extremely slow speeds. Voltage is consistent across the batteries, the controller is fairly new replaced within the last 3 years. I'm not sure where to go from here. Thanks.

[CP241]

Is it a regen cart or series? (Push button to switch forward and reverse or is it a lever).

A solenoid will not do anything for this problem. It’s basically just a big relay, which is just a switch, on or off. There’s no variability possible in a solenoid. It’s the same as flipping a light switch on or off.

[brownlm0411]

Originally Posted by CP241

Is it a regen cart or series? (Push button to switch forward and reverse or is it a lever).

A solenoid will not do anything for this problem. It’s basically just a big relay, which is just a switch, on or off. There’s no variability possible in a solenoid. It’s the same as flipping a light switch on or off.

This uses a lever for forward/reverse. Understood, what's odd is the immediate improvement following the solenoid replacement. What other components could be impacted by replacing that switch that would result in the cart operating normally but subsequently returning to the failed state?

[CP241]

The solenoid making a difference is purely Coincidence. It either works or it doesn’t. It’s not gonna “work” but make the cart slower.

I’d start by carefully checking your battery connections and cables for any corrosion or loose connections. Also, try with the key off, quickly stab the go pedal to the floor about 30 times. See if that makes a difference.

Voltage may be consistent across batteries at rest but what about under a load when you drive the cart? What is the pack voltage both at rest and under a load?

My first thought, unless you fiddled with wiring at the controller (there’s a wire that make it go half speed in reverse and can cause problems if hooked up incorrectly) is if everything was working fine, and nothing changed but now it’s bad and slow is something has failed. Since it’s a series cart there’s no speed sensor. I’d start by carefully checking all your cables and connections. Check the throttle wires at the controller also. It should be 5k ohms at rest and go to 0 ohms between the 2 wires when the pedal is fully pressed to the floor. Maybe a failing or failed MCOR.

Maybe worth pulling apart the FNR switch and clean the contacts. If all is good there then we need to check the voltage coming out of the controller to make sure full voltage is being output to the motor.

Start with quick checks of the connections and quick resistance check of the throttle wires at the controller. Then go from there. Don’t order or replace anything until you can condemn something.

[Fairtax4me]

On a series cart you could have a bad half speed microswitch or bad connection at the switch. That would only give you about 8 mph either direction.

[brownlm0411]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

On a series cart you could have a bad half speed microswitch or bad connection at the switch. That would only give you about 8 mph either direction.

The cables running from the microswitches to the solenoid are in rough shape. Any idea where I can find replacements? Golf Cart Parts Direct, eBay and a few others don't seem to have them.

[crash12888]

I'm no sparky guy but what it sounds like when you replaced to solenoid you inadvertently hit or moved some other connection close by and it made a better connection for a while.
Go back in and check all connections, plug in and lug/bolt together and see if you find anything loose or corroded.

Just for clarification and not bashing, I'm not sure where the size classification changes but the batteries use "cables" and the microswitches uses "wire" usually a 14GA or 16GA size.
You can pick up a couple of color matching rolls of wire from an auto parts store along with the crimp on ends and make your own very easily.

[brownlm0411]

Originally Posted by crash12888

I'm no sparky guy but what it sounds like when you replaced to solenoid you inadvertently hit or moved some other connection close by and it made a better connection for a while.
Go back in and check all connections, plug in and lug/bolt together and see if you find anything loose or corroded.

Just for clarification and not bashing, I'm not sure where the size classification changes but the batteries use "cables" and the microswitches uses "wire" usually a 14GA or 16GA size.
You can pick up a couple of color matching rolls of wire from an auto parts store along with the crimp on ends and make your own very easily.

Perfect, the gauge was exactly what I was looking for. I'll be more mindful of the terminology! Thank you!

[brownlm0411]

Resolved! Ended up replacing all the cables that link the batteries as well as the positive and negative cables. Good as new (or as good as a 20 year old golf cart can be). Thanks!

[crash12888]

Good news, Some times the corrosion builds up under the plastic covering to the point the amount of electrical resistance will still read 12 volts but choke the "AMPS" down to stop everything.
glad you got it worked out and thanks for the finale update.