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Old 10-15-2021, 05:04 PM   #1
ballencd
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Default Correct Forum for Cushman Turf Truckster

I am looking for the correct forum to post questions on the Cushman Turf Truckster. I see them in different places and was wondering where the best place would be. Inquiring Minds Want to Know.

Thanks

Charlie
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Old 10-15-2021, 09:21 PM   #2
CharleyL
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Default Re: Correct Forum for Cushman Turf Truckster

You're here. Please tell us what year your turf truckster is? I can probably help with any questions for the 70's to mid 90's, but then the Cushman Co. went through several owners and considerable redesign of their products and I don't have much experience with them.

My truckster is a 1987 with a OMC 22 hp engine. I think it's referred to as a Haulster. It has a DIY bed on the back to make it into a stake body. I don't know what it originally was when new, but from mud in the frame, etc. it seems to have been in or around a stone quarry. I'm at least the 4th owner, the second being the one who built the rear stake body, which I had to remake almost from scratch. My truckster sat on the edge of a pine forest completely untouched for about 13 years before I came to it's rescue.

Charley

Yes, another Charlie, but my mom spelled it differently.
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Old 10-16-2021, 11:45 AM   #3
ballencd
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Default Re: Correct Forum for Cushman Turf Truckster

Charley,
1986 3 wheeled Turf Truckster. 22 HP OMC engine, 3 speed trans with Hi/Lo and a PTO. I bought it about 14 years ago +/- a year. It ran for a short period of time but I never got it running dependably and it ended up getting parked in the yard till a few months ago.

It had a top spreader on it when I got it, powered by a PTO on back end passenger side. The spreader had a belt table on the bottom that would move the load sand/dirt/gravel to the rear and then a big street cleaner looking roller brush that would fling the sand/dirt/gravel evenly on the green. Interesting but I had no need for that so it came off right away. What I found underneath was a dump bed lift but no bed. The hinge points are there but damaged and will need to be repaired.

When I pulled it back to the house a few months ago wanting to get it running again and build a bed for the dump I found a lot of rat damage to the wiring. I have all that repaired now and am trying to get it running.

I'm trying to get some pictures on here but the learning curve is hitting me hard.

I got the engine running but had to take out the carb 2X and also the fuel pump. The oil level has been rising as I have been testing the engine and I am sure at this point that the fuel pump is toast. I have not found a replacement and it sure would have been easy for Cushman to design it so it was repairable but I will not go into that. I will be looking for a electric pump in the next few days. Have you got a brand or model number you have used that worked OK? Looks like 2-4 psi is OK...? I had one around the shop here but cannot find it.

As soon as I figure out how to insert pictures I will put some up to look at. I have a long way to go. Baby steps. Later Charlie
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Old 10-18-2021, 06:21 PM   #4
CharleyL
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Default Re: Correct Forum for Cushman Turf Truckster

To post pictures, go to the "Go Advanced" button at the bottom of your post.
It will take you to where you can attach photos, if they are on your computer.

Type your message, add the photos, and then post your message. They will appear in your post directly below your message. Keep them around 100K bytes or less and Jpeg for best and fast posting. I usually do this with 4 X 6" image size.

You likely have a dirty/rusted gas tank, and from running it, this dirty gas has plugged up your carburetor.

The electric fuel pump that I put on my Truckster is just a standard electric fuel pump for a 6 cylinder car that I purchased at the local auto parts store.

The ones available today are self regulating at 4-6 lbs, so fuel pressure isn't a problem. Do put an inline fuel filter between the cleaned out gas tank and the fuel pump. Also, position the fuel pump at as close to the same level as the tank outlet. They don't suck up hill very well. Run the outlet of the fuel pump directly to the carburetor inlet, and if the carb is a Kehin, look for the tiny filter in the inlet pipe of the carburetor. If it's still in there, pull it out and trash it. They are no longer available and you will be better off without it. . Throw away the bypass filter (the one with three connections). You only need that when using the original three connection filter when using the original positive displacement fuel pump. They haven't made that original fuel pump in years, so if you find one for sale, it will be very expensive, and won't last long because the rubber parts have already gone bad while sitting on the shelf. I removed the original fuel pump from my Truckster and made a blocking plate and gasket to cover the hole.

The carburetor is going to need a thorough dis-assembly, cleaning and replacement of gaskets and other parts. There is a rebuild kit, but it can be hard to find. The float needs to be replaced too, even if it looks OK, and it needs to be purchased separately. It isn't part of the rebuild kit, but should be.. Over the years, plastic floats do absorb volatiles from the fuel and float lower in the carburetor bowl. The result is an engine running too rich. Make certain that all of the passages in the carburetor are clean. I used a single strand of 20 ga copper wire to clear the passages in mine. The one from the accelerator to the throat of the carburetor took the most effort.

If you don't thoroughly clean out of replace your fuel tank, it will be the source of never ending problems. There is a special fuel tank relining kit available with an etchant, a rinse, and an epoxy-like liner. The end result is totally cleaned and ready for another life time fuel tank. I wouldn't hesitate to carry drinking water in a tank that has had this treatment. It will fix pin holes and with a piece of fiberglass, even larger holes. It's available from Amazon. The one that I used comes from KBS Coatings and it's more expensive than others, because it's designed to fix the problem permanently. This one is for up to a 5 gallon tank. There are others larger.

amazon.com/KBS-Coatings-52000-Sealer-Gallon/dp/B000IBDIX2/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1IWJ7CD3WH9M5&dchild=1&keywords=kb s+coatings+52000+cycle+tank+sealer+kit&qid=1634598 502&sprefix=kbs+coatings%2Caps%2C193&sr=8-1

You will need some short pieces of fuel line and a couple of bolts to push in to plug the fuel tank ports, and a good way to seal the fill port. I just bought another fuel cap. Also plan on having some fat pipe cleaners to use after adding the coating and draining the excess, to use for cleaning the excess material out of the fuel lines of the tank. I used some old Christmas decoration fuzzy candy canes that were made with a red and a white kind-of pipe cleaners twisted together and bent to form a candy cane for hanging on the tree.

The process will take a few hours of attention, spread out in about 15 minute increments over about a week to do it right. I had about a 1/2" layer of rusty crust in the bottom of my tank, so added a hand full of landscaping white gravel to the tank to help break up this crust when shaking the tank with the etchant, and then the rinse. The result is amazing. They should do this with all new fuel tanks, and they would last forever.

Good luck with your restoration. Post again with questions and I'll do my best to answer them. I check in here almost every day.

Charley
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Old 10-19-2021, 06:34 PM   #5
ballencd
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Default Re: Correct Forum for Cushman Turf Truckster

Charley,
Thanks for the info. I went to Car Quest and bought a fuel pump today asking for a 5 psi max and they gave me U2496734, which I put in today. It has not been powered up yet. Tonight I looked up the number on the web and found it is a min 5 psi and max 9 psi. Do you think that will be too much pressure for the carb? Seems like every step I am taking forward on this project I get pushed 2 steps back. : (

I did start cleaning up the gas tank today. It was very hard to get out and I am not sure how it will go back in but I will make it happen. It has a 3/8" hole in the side of it and lots of very fine rust dust in it. I think it will clean up OK and I will use your suggestion on the poured in liner when I am advanced enough to be ready for a gas tank. I am using a peanut butter jar for testing! : )

Once I get the engine running OK I will work on the gas tank, brakes and chassis. There is some serious rust on the two main rails under the engine and on the cross member under the engine. I am not good at it but I have a MIG welder and can weld a bit. Most of the linkages are loose and probably need bushings, adjustment and grease. The brakes and clutch were OK 12 years ago but could use some service I am sure. I put in a light switch that has 3 positions and a horn button included. I have the low beams working but will get some new plugs for the headlights so I can have high beam also and still need to connect the horn. That part should be a piece of cake. I think the rest of the wiring is fixed. All the tires are shot and seat could use a recovering.....then a bed and new battery and I will be set to go. Looking forward to using it.

Thanks again for the info. I am sure I will be back asking more questions.

Later

Charlie
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Old 10-20-2021, 09:01 AM   #6
CharleyL
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Default Re: Correct Forum for Cushman Turf Truckster

The biggest problem with the brake system is that the DOT 3 brake fluid is alcohol based and the cap of the master cylinder vents to the air. Over time, atmospheric pressure and temperature changes cause air to enter and leave the brake system through this vent hole. The vent is necessary because of changes in the volume of the master cylinder when you apply and release the brakes, but the air entering and leaving the master cylinder brings moisture in with it, which readily unites with the alcohol in the brake fluid. When enough has entered, it begins rusting the brake system from the inside out.

I wasn't successful at finding a modern style master cylinder which is sealed and not vented that would also fit my Truckster, so I decided to just replace it with a new original and then replace the DOT 3 brake fluid every couple of years with new brake fluid. They now make brake fluid that is silicone based and doesn't have this affinity for moisture, but it is not compatible with the old DOT 3 fluid or the rubber parts of the existing brake system. Well, it was an education, but a dead end, so I just decided to replace the DOT3 fluid every 2-3 years.

Make certain that you put an inline fuel filter between your gas tank and electric fuel pump. Even small amounts of rust and debris will kill an electric fuel pump. Do it even after re-lining your tank.

I think your fuel pump will be OK with the fuel pressure. The deciding point will be how well the needle valve attached to the float in the carburetor can hold back the pressure. A new carburetor float and needle valve are going to be a "must have". If gas ever starts coming out of the float bowl vent, either the needle valve isn't closing completely, or the fuel pump pressure is too high.

Is your gas tank rectangular and attached to the side of the frame on the left? If so, it is the same as mine, and the relining kit for a 5 gallon tank is adequate. Once open, you can't save any of the epoxy-like relining material. It begins hardening as soon as air gets to it. There will be some left, but it isn't worth keeping. Use it all and trash what you drain back out after sloshing it all around to be certain of covering all inside surfaces.

For some interesting reading covering a lot more, do a search on my posts and read about my suggestions to help others. It will save me a whole lot of typing.

Don't hesitate to ask more questions here, if you should need to know more. The service manual is available on the www.sillylittlecars.com website too. (I'm a member there). The "supplement" manual contains the electrical schematics and also the OMC motor information. The main manual is the exploded views and parts lists for the body and frame, of which most of the parts are no longer available.

Please post a few photos. I would love to see what you have. I'm in South Central NC just above Charlotte, NC. Are you near me?

Charley
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