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Old 09-02-2021, 07:51 AM   #31
trig123
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Default Re: CT Rebuild 375 (295) Robin Engine Won’t Run

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Originally Posted by wingmanchris View Post
So I double checked compression this morning when the engine was cold from sitting all night. Removed (+) coil wire, fuel line from carb, and crankcase signal line to fuel pump. Held carb linkage wide open and tested.
Left (drivers) side 133psi
Right (passenger) side 145 psi

When I get home today I will check valve lash. I know .004 is what the manual states but I see some recommending .006, not sure how much difference it will make. Also the engine supposedly has new intake valves per the rebuilder.

I will also thoroughly go through the carb again. I also have an aftermarket carb showing up today that I can use to test if needed.

Question, if I use a spray bottle to spray gas in the carb with the fuel lines disconnected, or directly into the intake with the carb removed, while cranking the engine should it run? Would this be a legit test or no don’t bother?
I always set the valves on .004. What I do is take two feeler gauges. One .004 and one .006. If I get the 4 to slide in easy and the 6 won't go then I am good. I wouldn't set them on .006 as I have found they rattle a little but that's just me. I go by the manual and set them only at .004.

You shouldn't have to even do this on a new rebuilt engine. That compression is too low . Do the valves and then recheck compression and post results. I also know about compression being lower when you first rebuild an engine and it all is good it will get better as rings seat but yours is lower that I would want to see.

If this carb was working before it should work now. Just wait on the new carb and lets see what happens and don't spray gas in it.

I might be calling that company about what you found with compression if its still that low after you check those valves.

I also might check to make sure the compression tester is working correct. You could even add a drop or two of oil in each cylinder and see if compression goes up but again you should not have to be doing this on a rebuilt engine you paid your hard earned money for.

I just rebuilt one of these engines last week. Both my cylinders are 170 and this cart runs like a dream.

Also I didn't ask and it really don't have anything to do with your problem but is this cart lifted and if so how much oil did you put in it ? 1.5 quarts is what these take lifted or not but if lifted you have to put a mark on you oil stick .

I will wait on your post later today. Tom
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Old 09-02-2021, 09:13 AM   #32
wingmanchris
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Default Re: CT Rebuild 375 (295) Robin Engine Won’t Run

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Originally Posted by trig123 View Post
I always set the valves on .004. What I do is take two feeler gauges. One .004 and one .006. If I get the 4 to slide in easy and the 6 won't go then I am good. I wouldn't set them on .006 as I have found they rattle a little but that's just me. I go by the manual and set them only at .004.

You shouldn't have to even do this on a new rebuilt engine. That compression is too low . Do the valves and then recheck compression and post results. I also know about compression being lower when you first rebuild an engine and it all is good it will get better as rings seat but yours is lower that I would want to see.

If this carb was working before it should work now. Just wait on the new carb and lets see what happens and don't spray gas in it.

I might be calling that company about what you found with compression if its still that low after you check those valves.

I also might check to make sure the compression tester is working correct. You could even add a drop or two of oil in each cylinder and see if compression goes up but again you should not have to be doing this on a rebuilt engine you paid your hard earned money for.

I just rebuilt one of these engines last week. Both my cylinders are 170 and this cart runs like a dream.

Also I didn't ask and it really don't have anything to do with your problem but is this cart lifted and if so how much oil did you put in it ? 1.5 quarts is what these take lifted or not but if lifted you have to put a mark on you oil stick .

I will wait on your post later today. Tom
Cart is not lifted. I added exactly 1.5 quarts.
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Old 09-02-2021, 03:55 PM   #33
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Default Re: CT Rebuild 375 (295) Robin Engine Won’t Run

Ok so I checked the valves, the two exhaust valves were very tight, I adjusted all valves so .004 feeler gauge slips in but .006 doesn’t. Rechecked compression, cold, and both cylinders show just shy of 150psi.

I installed the new carb that came in and it still runs exactly the same as before. Barely runs, backfires. Won’t get past barely idling along. Cleaned the old carb again, making sure to get all passages with the carb cleaner spray, reinstalled and no difference.

Rebuilder said intake valves were changed, so I’m wondering if they just skipped adjusting the lash on the exhaust valves? Really brings the issue of timing into question.
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Old 09-02-2021, 07:40 PM   #34
trig123
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Default Re: CT Rebuild 375 (295) Robin Engine Won’t Run

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Originally Posted by wingmanchris View Post
Ok so I checked the valves, the two exhaust valves were very tight, I adjusted all valves so .004 feeler gauge slips in but .006 doesn’t. Rechecked compression, cold, and both cylinders show just shy of 150psi.

I installed the new carb that came in and it still runs exactly the same as before. Barely runs, backfires. Won’t get past barely idling along. Cleaned the old carb again, making sure to get all passages with the carb cleaner spray, reinstalled and no difference.

Rebuilder said intake valves were changed, so I’m wondering if they just skipped adjusting the lash on the exhaust valves? Really brings the issue of timing into question.
You think they are telling you the truth about running this engine ?
I tried to check on this seller today but the person that might know was out for the afternoon.

Was this engine shipped to you with the fan cover on it ?

Never heard of it but I guess someone could have left the flywheel key out of it. We all make mistakes and here lately I seem to make more than I used it. I just don't know if they did what they claimed and ran the engine ?
If you decide to check timing belt I guess you could take a look at pulser and flywheel.
You said you had fire but it wouldn't hurt to ohm the pulser as again I am just guessing. The pulser on this engine should be from 19 to 21 ohms.
150 pounds of compression is ok and this engine should run with that.
If you think they didn't replace the intake valves then take a picture under the valve cover and let us look Won't hurt to peek at it
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Old 09-02-2021, 07:59 PM   #35
wingmanchris
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Default Re: CT Rebuild 375 (295) Robin Engine Won’t Run

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Originally Posted by trig123 View Post
You think they are telling you the truth about running this engine ?
I tried to check on this seller today but the person that might know was out for the afternoon.

Was this engine shipped to you with the fan cover on it ?

Never heard of it but I guess someone could have left the flywheel key out of it. We all make mistakes and here lately I seem to make more than I used it. I just don't know if they did what they claimed and ran the engine ?
If you decide to check timing belt I guess you could take a look at pulser and flywheel.
You said you had fire but it wouldn't hurt to ohm the pulser as again I am just guessing. The pulser on this engine should be from 19 to 21 ohms.
150 pounds of compression is ok and this engine should run with that.
If you think they didn't replace the intake valves then take a picture under the valve cover and let us look Won't hurt to peek at it
They said they ran it and specifically said they ran it with the plugs that were in it. The plugs that were in it were brand new, they were never fired. The exhaust valve lash was way too tight and causing low compression. I don’t know what to think but if I’m being honest, I don’t trust that the engine was run. This is the first time I have delt with this company.

I did ohm out the pulsar the other day and it did check out good. And again, if I have good consistent spark that shouldn’t be an issue right?

The engine was shipped without the fan shroud, plastic fan, and all other air covers. Also without carb, clutch, oil cap, dipstick, or throttle linkage brackets. I kept all of the original parts and reinstalled them before installing the rebuilt engine in the cart.

I’m going on vacation with the family tomorrow for the holiday weekend and won’t be home until late Monday. Most likely won’t have time to get back at this thing until Tuesday night. When I do, I’ll pull the engine and check the timing belt position and the flywheel key.

If those both check out, I’m really not sure what else could be the issue. I’m at a loss.

I saw some other older threads on here where some folks had good reviews of CT Rebuilders and I based my purchase off of that. I’m interested to hear what your contact has to say as well.
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Old 09-02-2021, 08:04 PM   #36
trig123
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Default Re: CT Rebuild 375 (295) Robin Engine Won’t Run

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Originally Posted by wingmanchris View Post
They said they ran it and specifically said they ran it with the plugs that were in it. The plugs that were in it were brand new, they were never fired. The exhaust valve lash was way too tight and causing low compression. I don’t know what to think but if I’m being honest, I don’t trust that the engine was run. This is the first time I have delt with this company.

I did ohm out the pulsar the other day and it did check out good. And again, if I have good consistent spark that shouldn’t be an issue right?

The engine was shipped without the fan shroud, plastic fan, and all other air covers. Also without carb, clutch, oil cap, dipstick, or throttle linkage brackets. I kept all of the original parts and reinstalled them before installing the rebuilt engine in the cart.

I’m going on vacation with the family tomorrow for the holiday weekend and won’t be home until late Monday. Most likely won’t have time to get back at this thing until Tuesday night. When I do, I’ll pull the engine and check the timing belt position and the flywheel key.

If those both check out, I’m really not sure what else could be the issue. I’m at a loss.

I saw some other older threads on here where some folks had good reviews of CT Rebuilders and I based my purchase off of that. I’m interested to hear what your contact has to say as well.
Enjoy your vacation. We can help you figure something out when you get back. I will try and remember to make that call tomorrow and do a little checking on this seller and post back what I find out. Tom
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Old 09-03-2021, 06:47 AM   #37
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Default Re: CT Rebuild 375 (295) Robin Engine Won’t Run

Hi Trig.

I have been following this thread but have not jumped in yet. By all accounts i was beginning to think resistive High tension plug leads were maybe a possibility, but if i recall a new coil and leads have now been fitted, so that counts that idea out. You jumped right in with valve timing and it appears to be the only thing left to take a look at. Lets see what he finds after the weekend and go from there. I too have never seen a missing or broken key on one of these! But who knows? The only real other issues that I have come across that cause these symptoms of no revving, is blocked airway ( filter ) But it is being tested without the filter fitted. Possibly a clogged up exhaust, but it was running ok before the transplant. Or dare I say, the baffle plate on the carb/air filter being installed incorrectly and blocking the air flow. ( found this a few times ) but obviously not the problem here. So if all this is checked, the puffing back of fuel out the carb, leads to two things in my mind. Inlet valves not sealing or valve/ignition timing out of wack! Everything else seems to be checked out and fine. I would have suggested checking float valve height in the carb causing lack of fuel supply but several carbs have been tried, so probably not that either. I have just gone back and looked / listened to the video posted and I dont know if it is me, but i hear a definite regular knocking suggesting possible pre ignition. This also lends me to think timing.
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Old 09-03-2021, 08:25 AM   #38
trig123
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Default Re: CT Rebuild 375 (295) Robin Engine Won’t Run

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Originally Posted by Cartmaster View Post
Hi Trig.

I have been following this thread but have not jumped in yet. By all accounts i was beginning to think resistive High tension plug leads were maybe a possibility, but if i recall a new coil and leads have now been fitted, so that counts that idea out. You jumped right in with valve timing and it appears to be the only thing left to take a look at. Lets see what he finds after the weekend and go from there. I too have never seen a missing or broken key on one of these! But who knows? The only real other issues that I have come across that cause these symptoms of no revving, is blocked airway ( filter ) But it is being tested without the filter fitted. Possibly a clogged up exhaust, but it was running ok before the transplant. Or dare I say, the baffle plate on the carb/air filter being installed incorrectly and blocking the air flow. ( found this a few times ) but obviously not the problem here. So if all this is checked, the puffing back of fuel out the carb, leads to two things in my mind. Inlet valves not sealing or valve/ignition timing out of wack! Everything else seems to be checked out and fine. I would have suggested checking float valve height in the carb causing lack of fuel supply but several carbs have been tried, so probably not that either. I have just gone back and looked / listened to the video posted and I dont know if it is me, but i hear a definite regular knocking suggesting possible pre ignition. This also lends me to think timing.
I am glad you posted and I knew you were probably watching this post . At least I was hoping you were.

I am at loss on this cartmaster and yes I heard the same knock you did when I watched and listened to the video. Only for a split second but it was there.

I have never had this to happen on a 4 stroke but on the 2-strokes if someone crosses the pulser wires after maybe cutting them them and puts them back on wrong it throws the ignition timing off so much that all the cart will do is explode in muffler.
I ran my dog out my shop at least 5 times back in 2018 before I noticed the pulser wires were crossed but again this was on a 2-stroke. That is why I told him to look good at the pulser.
When you are working behind someone who we can't say for sure is 100 % legit after rebuilding an engine then anything can happen. That was my case in 2018.
Tom
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Old 09-07-2021, 02:59 PM   #39
wingmanchris
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Default Re: CT Rebuild 375 (295) Robin Engine Won’t Run

Ok so I got the engine pulled back out of the cart and pulled all the covers off to check the timing. Timing marks look to be in the right position. The idler spring is missing, is it necessary? On the fan/flywheel side, I noticed that the flywheel is missing a chunk, not sure if that will affect the pulsar, it is in the field of view of the pulsar. Secondly, not sure if it is enough weight missing to throw the balance off enough to hurt the engine. Again, I’ve yet to get it to rev up to high rpms. Also noticed that the pulsar was painted when the block was painted by the rebuilder. Will that interfere with it reading correctly? The pulsar-flywheel gap is .020. The pulsar reads between 20-21 ohms. It moves around anywhere within that reading and never settles on an exact reading.




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Old 09-07-2021, 05:02 PM   #40
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Default Re: CT Rebuild 375 (295) Robin Engine Won’t Run

I think you found your problem. Timing is off, but it isn't because of the cam timing, its the firing timing from the Pulsar due to the broken flywheel. Replace the flywheel, I suspect you will be running fine. Did the flywheel come from CT like that, or was it off the old motor?
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