2004 Precedent dead

[yamahag9er]

I drove my cart up to the house the other night and everything was fine. I jumped on it the next morning to run it out to the shop and nothing. No solenoid click or anything. It is completely dead.
This cart has the 4 - 12 volt batteries in it that are less then a year old and overall pack voltage is reading 49.5 volts. Hooked up my Curtis hand held computer and checked the fault codes and all I am getting is an HW Failsafe code. I know the HW failsafe is basically the controller shutting down because of an issue. I just cant figure out what that issue is. It is also showing 0.0 volts on the hand held which is something I have not run across before. Usually I see some sort of voltage on that. Typically pack voltage.
I installed a new solenoid, controller, and bypassed/reset the OBC and nothing.
Checked ignition, FnR switch, run tow switch, and MCOR and everything checked O.K.
Ohmed out motor and everything checked good.
I have all of the correct readings that you are supposed to have at the 16 pin connector at the controller.
Anyone have any ideas because I don't know what else to check. It acts like the OBC is locked out but everything seems to check out. Tempted to eliminate it all together because I don't run a stock charger anymore on it anyways.
Thoughts?

[NoleFan4Ever]

Spencer, just for $hits and giggles, jumper the blue wire and the white wire on the harness side of the 6 pin connector that goes to your OBC. Then see if it works.

We will figure this out....

[yamahag9er]

I tried that as well and nothing. The only thing I wasn’t sure about was do the remaining wires in the 6 pin plug need to be plugged in to the OBC while you jumper the blue and white wires? I didn’t have those plugged in.

[NoleFan4Ever]

Not at all..... The white is powered from the Run/Tow switch and the Blue is the lockout to the controller. By powering the blue with the white, it should never be able to go into lockout. Now I have had twice before my jumper come loose.

If you want to verify you have not lost the connection, just run a jumper from B+ right to the blue wires' pin on the harness side of the connector as a test.

If it still doesn't work, we will know it is not in lockout mode and then we will do some testing at the solenoid.

[yamahag9er]

I have pack voltage at pin 5 on the 16 pin connector at the controller. Is that basically the same thing as jumping the blue and white wires? I will still try jumping those wires again. Thanks!!!

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by yamahag9er

I have pack voltage at pin 5 on the 16 pin connector at the controller. Is that basically the same thing as jumping the blue and white wires? I will still try jumping those wires again. Thanks!!!

If that is the Blue wire from the OBC, then Yes.

[NoleFan4Ever]

Ok, then with the key on, in Fwd and Go Pedal depressed enough to engage the MCOR. What are the voltages at both the light blue wire AND the blue/white wire? On the Blue wire use your red probe and then black probe to the battery Main Neg. On your blue/white wire use the black probe and then red probe to the battery Main Pos.

[yamahag9er]

I appreciate your input Nole. What we ended up finding was the turn signal switch on the steering column was grounding out on the column and that pretty much screwed up the whole system on that cart. I have never seen that happen before and we only really found it by chance. We unplugged the turn signal switch from the harness under the dash to basically get it out of the way and all of the sudden everything started working like it was supposed to. Sometimes you learn things even if you don't want to.