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#1 |
Not Yet Wild
![]() Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Lipa City, Batangas, Philippines
Posts: 24
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![]() My battery has been discharging, not recharging on the golf course. I did the test for the starter/gen as per instructions in the manual. Disconnect the DF wire, hook a jumper from battery ground to DF. Starter/gen is putting out 18+ volts at around 2000-2500 rmp so it's not the Gen. Just getting 12v through the voltage regulator. Just doesn't seem to be running right, but it seemed to run better during the test. Then just for Sh...s and grinns I did a continuity check from ground and the starter motor. With the key switch in fwd I have continuity to all the posts on the starter, a1,a2,f1,f2 df and the starter motor cover. With the key in reverse, I have continuity to just a1, a2 and starter motor. This just doesn't seem right to me. Do I have a key switch issue or do I have a ground in the starter motor somewhere???? Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
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#2 |
Gone Wild
![]() Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: East TN
Posts: 525
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![]() I've checked continuity like you did on mine and there is continuity between all of them so that is normal. Your generator is working fine. Sounds like your voltage regulator needs adjusting or less likely the points inside it are burnt.
Next time before you start engine check the battery voltage and write it down. It should be ~12.6 volts fully charged. Now connect a multimeter to the battery with alligator clips or something secure and safely run the wires out where you can see the multimeter while driving. Anything above what you wrote down indicates the battery is being charged and the voltage regulator is working. Drive around for a few minutes to warm up the engine and note how high the voltage goes at governed speed (3,600 rpm). If it is less than ~14.6 volts then you need to adjust the voltage regulator until you get there. After a week or so later you may want to check the voltage again. |
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#3 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 3,023
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![]() Depending on the year of your cart you may have a solid state regulator. Those aren't adjustable. They aren't too much money so I would get a new one.
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#4 |
Gone Wild
![]() Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: North Texas
Posts: 2,314
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![]() The reason for the difference in continuity readings is probably because the battery does not charge in reverse.
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#5 |
Not Yet Wild
![]() Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Lipa City, Batangas, Philippines
Posts: 24
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![]() Yes I forgot to say the year, 1990 converted back to points and condenser. I blocked it up and warmed it up real well and still no charging volts running it at high speed. Should I get continuity through the black wires through the diodes that are inline when I disconnect them? It has the three wire, black, green, red block style made by tympanium voltage regulator. After some quick reading how diodes work, I hooked up the red wire of the tester before the diodes and black to the end and got continuity on both diodes,think they are both good, so I think it's back to the voltage regulator. Thanks
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#6 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 3,023
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![]() Also, you can switch the two wires going from the regulator to the generator snd see if that corrects things. You cant hurt anything doing so.
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#7 |
Not Yet Wild
![]() Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Lipa City, Batangas, Philippines
Posts: 24
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![]() Good Idea Lochlin, I'll give that a try before I try to find a voltage regulator that will work, but since they both meet up in a Y connection not sure if that will help, unless one of the diodes is bad. I'll give it a shot right now. Thanks
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#8 |
Gone Wild
![]() Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: East TN
Posts: 525
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![]() You'll have to use the diode test on the multimeter and not the continuity test. Right off memory I think it shows this kind of symbol: ->| . Also you will need probably need to unhook the wires the diodes are on to be sure you dont bypass them when testing.
Diode Test The manual says you have a solid state voltage regulator as lochlin said so there are no adjustments. If the diodes test good then I would say you need a new voltage regulator. |
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#9 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 3,023
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![]() Not sure on the 90 wiring but my 85s go straight from the voltage regulator to the generator. There are no diodes involved. 90 could well be different. You have a wiring diagram?
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#10 |
Gone Wild
![]() Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: East TN
Posts: 525
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![]() I actually had some diodes installed by who knows who like he describes when I got my cart. Now I know where they came from. I took them off and wired the voltage regulator the way it shows in the manual for my year which used no diodes but I have the adjustable voltage regulator.
The diodes may be there to protect your type of voltage regulator. Not real sure. Unfortunately I don't remember exactly how they were wired but I do remember two wires being connected to one near the diode. It is all hidden within the wire sheathing. |
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Tags |
key switch, starter motor |
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