Little Black Box connected to Solenoid

[Peth0201]

Need some help!

I replaced the solenoid and diode. (I have an identical G29 next to the issue cart)

Still, No clicking from the solenoid.

Battery pack: 51.5 Volts.
Replaced Key switch
Replaced Tow/Run Switch
Replaced F/R switch
checked the two fuses - they are ok.
Solenoid: .13 OHM resistance
Solenoid 8.92V on larger terminals
Solenoid: 0V on small terminals

No clicking. Are there any more switches to test?

How do I test the controller?

2016 YDRE Drive G29

[Scott quail]

You should have pack voltage on one big post as it comes directly from the main positive battery. Check cables. Do you have voltage at the key switch?

[Peth0201]

I had voltage everywhere.

I swapped out the controllers, and it worked. The controller must have fried when the positive post burned out.

Wouldn't they have a stop for that? A fuse? I realize there is a fuse under the drivers side, but another one in case of a surge. Frustrating!

[Scott quail]

Million dollar question. Make sure everything is tight. Gakd you got it fixed.

[Peth0201]

For some reason the terminal was tight, but the post "spun". They were older batteries.

Appreciate the help!

[ThreeCW]

Originally Posted by Peth0201

For some reason the terminal was tight, but the post "spun". They were older batteries.

Loose posts result in high resistance, which results in heat generation especially at higher amperages. This can result in a melted battery post.

The most common cause of this is over-torqued battery connections.

Battery posts are designed to be torque only to 100 INCH-POUNDS ... which is only about 8 FOOT-POUNDS. If you significantly over torque a battery post, a melt down is a common result.

[Peth0201]

Great to know! This one came off of a golf course and I unfortunately inherited the mess. Still made some money, so all is well!