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Old 08-31-2021, 06:43 PM   #11
trig123
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Default Re: CT Rebuild 375 (295) Robin Engine Won’t Run

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Originally Posted by wingmanchris View Post
Ok I called CT Rebuilds today and they said the engine was bench tested and ran before they shipped it out. They said timing is fine, not a motor issue.

I checked the coil resistance per the manual and it checked out good. Including resistance through plug wires. To my coil, the red wire is the negative and the yellow is the positive. Red to ground when cranking the engine over I get no voltage reading. Yellow to ground when cranking I get 10.8 vac and dropping off I continue to crank it. Battery is fully charged at 12.49vdc and drops to 11.98vdc when cranking engine. The engine is not spinning over fast enough to start the generator charging because it’s barely running. I tried adding a jump pack to the battery to ensure that wasn’t the issue, still no change.
I am now disassembling all connections on solenoid and frame to clean them up and make sure there is good grounds etc.
Engine still starts and barely runs, stumbles no matter where the pedal is pressed to and never revs up. Barely running. Spark does seem weak and coil voltage seems to point that way.
Not sure what went bad sitting in the garage for three days waiting on the rebuilt motor, frustrating to say the least.
Is this engine actually running or just turning over ? I have never seen a yellow wire going to the coil. Only white and red and red goes to positive side of coil, white to negative side . Yellow wire should go to the Fuel Level Sending Unit . Has someone rewired this cart ? or maybe cut and spliced some wires ?
Could you upload a picture of your engine, maybe a couple to see if we can see something not right.
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Old 08-31-2021, 07:11 PM   #12
wingmanchris
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Default Re: CT Rebuild 375 (295) Robin Engine Won’t Run

The motor is definitely running, but barely.

The coil has a red wire to the (-) side spade, I checked it against ground when cranking and there is no voltage. The other wire is a beige yellow, I guess it could have been white at one point, going to the (+) side spade. I checked it to ground while cranking and I am getting voltage, less than battery voltage, but close, especially with jump pack hooked up to battery. This is the way it was wired before I disassembled it, I marked the connections. I did swap them however to see if it would help, but no difference.

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Old 08-31-2021, 07:12 PM   #13
wingmanchris
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Default Re: CT Rebuild 375 (295) Robin Engine Won’t Run



This link should take you to video with sound.

https://m.imgur.com/HBxmL1m
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Old 08-31-2021, 07:47 PM   #14
trig123
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Default Re: CT Rebuild 375 (295) Robin Engine Won’t Run

Put your old spark plug wires back on the coil and try it. I don't think its firing those spark plugs. It would be nice if you had a good spark plug tester. That's the only way I can tell if one is firing.
I use the one that looks like a spark plug with alligator clip on it. If it fires across that one it will fire the plugs if they are good. I think I got mine from NAPA years ago. It is my go to tool when working on things that I think has firing problems.
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Old 09-01-2021, 05:44 AM   #15
wingmanchris
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Default Re: CT Rebuild 375 (295) Robin Engine Won’t Run

One of the old plug wires is broken, the plug end broke off. I did reinstall them and can hold the wire agains the plug to get it to connect, no difference, engine still barely runs.

After hours of researching and reading old forum threads and posts, both here and elsewhere last night, I tried a couple other things.
I disconnected the green wire from the voltage regulator and tried cranking the engine, no change still barely fires and runs.
I checked the coil connections with a test light. The yellow wire (+) side of coil lights the test light solid when disconnected from coil and engine cranking. The red wire (-) side of coil does not light the light when disconnected from coil and engine is cranking. When I connect the light to the yellow(+) terminal with wire connected to coil and engine cranking, the light pulsates and engine barely runs. When I connect the light to the red (-) terminal with the wire connected to the coil and the engine cranking it pulsates the light but also kills the engine from running. I also tried reversing the coil wires again and disconnected the green wire from the voltage regulator. No difference.
I also tried loosening the muffler so it could breath better in case the muffler was plugged, no change, engine still barely runs.
Also tried all of the above with jump pack connected for highest voltage possible. No difference.

I have a new coil with plug wires being delivered today and a new carb, voltage regulator, and solenoid being delivered tomorrow. I absolutely hate changing parts out and crossing fingers but that is where I’m at unfortunately.
Also may still pull engine and check timing, waiting to see what CT Rebuilds says today when I let them know everything else I’ve tried.
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Old 09-01-2021, 08:01 AM   #16
trig123
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Default Re: CT Rebuild 375 (295) Robin Engine Won’t Run

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Originally Posted by wingmanchris View Post
One of the old plug wires is broken, the plug end broke off. I did reinstall them and can hold the wire agains the plug to get it to connect, no difference, engine still barely runs.

After hours of researching and reading old forum threads and posts, both here and elsewhere last night, I tried a couple other things.
I disconnected the green wire from the voltage regulator and tried cranking the engine, no change still barely fires and runs.
I checked the coil connections with a test light. The yellow wire (+) side of coil lights the test light solid when disconnected from coil and engine cranking. The red wire (-) side of coil does not light the light when disconnected from coil and engine is cranking. When I connect the light to the yellow(+) terminal with wire connected to coil and engine cranking, the light pulsates and engine barely runs. When I connect the light to the red (-) terminal with the wire connected to the coil and the engine cranking it pulsates the light but also kills the engine from running. I also tried reversing the coil wires again and disconnected the green wire from the voltage regulator. No difference.
I also tried loosening the muffler so it could breath better in case the muffler was plugged, no change, engine still barely runs.
Also tried all of the above with jump pack connected for highest voltage possible. No difference.

I have a new coil with plug wires being delivered today and a new carb, voltage regulator, and solenoid being delivered tomorrow. I absolutely hate changing parts out and crossing fingers but that is where I’m at unfortunately.
Also may still pull engine and check timing, waiting to see what CT Rebuilds says today when I let them know everything else I’ve tried.
Not sure why you are buying all these new parts and not listened to what I suggested about using the spark tester from NAPA that looks like a spark plug. I don't work on one of these carts without one.
Also why don't you put a new battery in this cart if you say you keep having to use a jump pack which I would never do and have never done in all the years I have worked on these carts. You have to look twice when installing the battery cables to be 100 % sure they are on correct.

The coil you have bought is almost guaranteed not an OEM . Please correct me if I am wrong . Did you buy a new OEM carburetor from an ezgo dealer. They cost around $160.

With a new rebuilt motor its always good to have one anyway. I have no way of knowing if the one you have now is OEM but listening to your engine try to run it sure sounds like those cylinders are not firing correct.

Not sure how many amps this battery boost thing you are using is but if not careful cranking one of these carts using one could fry the ignitor.

Did you think about checking the gap on your pulser coil since it was removed when this company did the rebuild ? I don't know anything about the company you bought from so I can't say if they are good or bad.

Again the spark tester I suggested would tell you if this engine would fire and once you know that then you can move on to whats causing the issue.

I forgot to mention that looking at your coil in the picture it is indeed OEM. Before I would use an aftermarket coil I would find some plug wires from ezgo and use the OEM coil you have.

You said this engine was running before you sent it off for rebuild and the only thing you changed was plug wires ?
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Old 09-01-2021, 08:10 AM   #17
JPonLKN
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Default Re: CT Rebuild 375 (295) Robin Engine Won’t Run

Timing is too easy to get right on these...I doubt it is a timing issue. I pulled an engine that sounded just like yours to check it and it wasn't the issue. If the coil Ohms within spec, both primary and secondary sides, that wouldn't be the issue either. New plugs, not just old previously run plugs that work on every other machine or previously worked in this engine...New plugs may be the answer if its on the firing side. I know it sounds crazy, but I beat my head against a wall with the same issue on the last cart I finished, pulled plugs out of my good running carts to try, and no difference. For shits and giggles, tried new plugs, and it ran like a banshee, first crank.

If you think it could be grounds, make sure the ground at the engine is up against the block, not the plastic shroud, and actually clean the contact well. Aluminum corrodes immediately on exposure to air, and that oxidation is not conductive. Make sure the ground at the solenoid goes to the frame, and not the battery tray. The battery tray is a painted steel insert and the only electrical connection to the frame is the scratches in the paint at the washers and bolts that connect the tray to the frame. A good jumper wire between the battery tray and the frame or negative battery post can help here. My guess is that it isn't electrical at all. If it isn't plugs, it is likely carb related. Make sure the float is moving freely, both main jet in the bowl, and the intermediate jet on top of the carb, the one with the tube are both clear. If that tube doesn't come out with the top jet, its likely gummed up.
Good luck with the new parts. Interested to hear which part solves the issue.
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Old 09-01-2021, 08:15 AM   #18
trig123
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Default Re: CT Rebuild 375 (295) Robin Engine Won’t Run

I have working on these golf carts since 1996 and the local ezgo tech that called on our golf course told me to buy this and its been in my tool box since. Never failed me once. I can only suggest. NAPA has them as I said before.
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Old 09-01-2021, 08:25 AM   #19
trig123
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Default Re: CT Rebuild 375 (295) Robin Engine Won’t Run

Quote:
Originally Posted by JPonLKN View Post
Timing is too easy to get right on these...I doubt it is a timing issue. I pulled an engine that sounded just like yours to check it and it wasn't the issue. If the coil Ohms within spec, both primary and secondary sides, that wouldn't be the issue either. New plugs, not just old previously run plugs that work on every other machine or previously worked in this engine...New plugs may be the answer if its on the firing side. I know it sounds crazy, but I beat my head against a wall with the same issue on the last cart I finished, pulled plugs out of my good running carts to try, and no difference. For shits and giggles, tried new plugs, and it ran like a banshee, first crank.

If you think it could be grounds, make sure the ground at the engine is up against the block, not the plastic shroud, and actually clean the contact well. Aluminum corrodes immediately on exposure to air, and that oxidation is not conductive. Make sure the ground at the solenoid goes to the frame, and not the battery tray. The battery tray is a painted steel insert and the only electrical connection to the frame is the scratches in the paint at the washers and bolts that connect the tray to the frame. A good jumper wire between the battery tray and the frame or negative battery post can help here. My guess is that it isn't electrical at all. If it isn't plugs, it is likely carb related. Make sure the float is moving freely, both main jet in the bowl, and the intermediate jet on top of the carb, the one with the tube are both clear. If that tube doesn't come out with the top jet, its likely gummed up.
Good luck with the new parts. Interested to hear which part solves the issue.
JPonLKN, I have tried my best to help this person and others here. If his engine was running before he sent it off and got it back in three days then throwing parts at it is a total waste of time and money when you could check the spark with what I suggested. If it fires using the tester I suggested then that part is eliminated so then put some new spark plugs in it.
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Old 09-01-2021, 08:33 AM   #20
wingmanchris
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Default Re: CT Rebuild 375 (295) Robin Engine Won’t Run

Thanks guys for the responses.
I am just trying to post what I have found and what tests I am doing with the tools and resources I currently have available. I am not ignoring anyone’s advice or input. All of the post I have made have been in the last two days, and again I’m working with what I have but am not at all opposed to acquiring another tool, part, etc. if it’s needed.
I ordered the parts before the spark checker was suggested because I was at a loss on what else to do. They are not oem, just the best rated off of Amazon. Worst case I return them, but like I said before, I’m not a parts replacer and cross my fingers type of guy. Forgive me for poor decisions made in a time of weakness and frustration

I have checked the spark by removing the plugs and grounding them out to the block and cranking the engine. They have consistent spark. I did check with my local Napa and they do have one of the spark checkers that y’all recommend and I’ll pick it up on the way home today. Would an in-line spark checker be of any help as well? I’m trying to source some plug wires locally, even if they are used. I’ll also pick up some more plugs, are the NGK BPR4ES the only ones I should try or should I pick up another brand or style to try? CT Rebuilds said the motor was run on the plugs it was sent with (NGK BPR4ES) but honestly they looked brand new when I looked at the before starting the engine. I did make sure to set the gap to .030

The rebuilt engine is not the same engine that was in the cart originally. The engine builder took mine as a core and sent me this one that was already rebuilt and ready to go. They assured me it was test run before being shipped and I trust them.

The carb worked fine on the old motor but I did take it apart and clean it twice. Made sure to spray out all ports with carb cleaner, float is good, needle and seat working correctly.

Again, thanks for all the help, I really do appreciate it. Just frustrating that I have spark, fuel, and compression but engine barely runs.
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