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Old 04-11-2011, 12:13 AM   #1
Andy4639
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Question Controller Bypass

OK,
who here that drag races or for that matter ever has ran a controller By pass?
I have it hooked up to my 72 volt dragster and YES it does make a differance! A noticable differance as the pictures prove.

So what does everyone think?
I think using it under the right conditions it's safe. If you are racing it's a learning curve to get the edge out of the cart.
Just as running a 72 volt golf cart on a dragstrip without a rollcage is not
the smartest thing to do. It's been done though! That doesn't mean it's the wrong way.
So what do you all think?


With the Bypass at the starting line:


At the end of this day I had cut it off because it had stuck and I didn't have any back up on the cart at the time. Now I have 2 emergency shut off's on board.
First one is here. If it sticks you pull the handle. Cuts flow off from #5 battery to # 6 battery circuit is cut no juice flowing.

If that doesn't do it then there is the second one.


Without the Bypass.
The front doesn't even try to come off the ground.
Check this out. Andrea driving it for the first time ever that night. I wouldn't let her drive it with the bypass until she had a few passes under her belt.

http://www.youtube.com/v/t71oQe9BVmM?hl=en&fs=1
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Old 04-11-2011, 12:42 AM   #2
TDAWG
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Default Re: Controller Bypass

Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy4639 View Post
OK,
who here that drag races or for that matter ever has ran a controller By pass?
I have it hooked up to my 72 volt dragster and YES it does make a differance! A noticable differance as the pictures prove.

So what does everyone think?
I think using it under the right conditions it's safe. If you are racing it's a learning curve to get the edge out of the cart.
Just as running a 72 volt golf cart on a dragstrip without a rollcage is not
the smartest thing to do. It's been done though! That doesn't mean it's the wrong way.
So what do you all think?


With the Bypass at the starting line:


At the end of this day I had cut it off because it had stuck and I didn't have any back up on the cart at the time. Now I have 2 emergency shut off's on board.
First one is here. If it sticks you pull the handle. Cuts flow off from #5 battery to # 6 battery circuit is cut no juice flowing.

If that doesn't do it then there is the second one.


Without the Bypass.
The front doesn't even try to come off the ground.
Check this out. Andrea driving it for the first time ever that night. I wouldn't let her drive it with the bypass until she had a few passes under her belt.

http://www.youtube.com/v/t71oQe9BVmM?hl=en&fs=1
Ok I guess you got me. A by-pass makes for a cool wheelie at the starting line. If it was a contest to see who could have the coolest wheelie then by-pass would be the way to go....Mabye. But it is not a wheelie contest, it is a 660' quickest time contest. Also by the way, no cage required unless under 9.99 secs.
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Old 04-11-2011, 02:30 AM   #3
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Question Re: Controller Bypass

Quote:
TDAWG,
Ok I guess you got me. A by-pass makes for a cool wheelie at the starting line. If it was a contest to see who could have the coolest wheelie then by-pass would be the way to go....Mabye. But it is not a wheelie contest, it is a 660' quickest time contest. Also by the way, no cage required unless under 9.99 secs.
BYPASS:
The cart ran 60MPH @ 10.7 seconds doing that wheelie that day. That's with 24" tall tires on it. Without the bypass that day it ran 55mph and the wheels never even started to come up. You can say what you want. The wheelie part of it shows the torque at take off with the Bypass. The reason for the bars on back. Without the bypass it want even come close to the same amount of torque. Who cares about the cool factor. Safety is what I'm looking for here. That was my son on the cart and my daughter in the video's. I'm not going to let them on a cart if I don't think it's safe. That's why I turned it off at the end of the day because it stuck on him. Again safet is #1.
I even drove it twice in Union the other week before I let Andrea drive it since it hadn't been rode all winter. To make sure it all performed as it should.

CAGE:
What does not required mean? Who's rules? It doesn't matter if it's required or not. The safety aspect is what I'm talking about. You bring something up and now say it's not required. The wreck you speak of was a 3 wheelier with no cage on 72volts. I guess it doesn't matter to you but it does to me.
Safety is #1 in my personal opinion, not being cool!
Here is the cart that wrecked. These are the only pictures I know of. If it had a cage on it when he wrecked he did it since August of last year.
He is a personal friend of mine. I have know his son since high school. We graduted together and have worked for Duke Energy for 30 + years together. In fact I talked to Danny today about his dad.



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Old 04-11-2011, 11:26 AM   #4
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Default Re: Controller Bypass

[QUOTE=Andy4639;549239]BYPASS:
The cart ran 60MPH @ 10.7 seconds doing that wheelie that day. That's with 24" tall tires on it. Without the bypass that day it ran 55mph and the wheels never even started to come up. You can say what you want. The wheelie part of it shows the torque at take off with the Bypass. The reason for the bars on back. Without the bypass it want even come close to the same amount of torque. Who cares about the cool factor. Safety is what I'm looking for here. That was my son on the cart and my daughter in the video's. I'm not going to let them on a cart if I don't think it's safe. That's why I turned it off at the end of the day because it stuck on him. Again safet is #1.
I even drove it twice in Union the other week before I let Andrea drive it since it hadn't been rode all winter. To make sure it all performed as it should.

When I found out that you were turning off the by-pass before you let your daughter drive the cart I was relieved. I think that is a great idea considering what could happen.

CAGE:
What does not required mean? Who's rules? It doesn't matter if it's required or not. The safety aspect is what I'm talking about. You bring something up and now say it's not required. The wreck you speak of was a 3 wheelier with no cage on 72volts. I guess it doesn't matter to you but it does to me.
Safety is #1 in my personal opinion, not being cool!
Here is the cart that wrecked. These are the only pictures I know of. If it had a cage on it when he wrecked he did it since August of last year.
He is a personal friend of mine. I have know his son since high school. We graduted together and have worked for Duke Energy for 30 + years together. In fact I talked to Danny today about his dad.


I hope Mr. Bailey is doing well by the way. He seems like a nice man and had one of the fastest 3-wheeler golf carts out there. I saw that cart run down the track several times. It looked rock solid at speed. Some might even say that a 3-wheeler makes for a better drag cart because of weight and aerodynamics. But we are getting off topic. Mr. Bailey did not wreck because he was using a 3-wheeler with no cage on 72 volts. He wrecked because his controller by-pass welded shut with no safety cut-off.
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Old 04-11-2011, 09:29 PM   #5
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Wink Re: Controller Bypass


The cart that year you saw it only ran in the Fifties with regular cart batteries. He has done a lot of work on it sine then.

The bypass is a working peice in the cart and it has been since I owned it. My son & daughter both like it and understand it. I forgot to mention this morning the first thing you do if it sticks is put the cart in neutral! On a E-Z-GO F/R switch if you weld a contactor up the F?R switch will cut the power off to the motor in neutral if it doesn't fail...which as we all know is subject to happen in any kind of electrical part. This is why I have the other 2 backups.
The Bypass is as safe as I can make it. That doesn't mean it's for everyone else though. You need to understand the risk and know what to do if it doesn't go as planned.
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Old 04-11-2011, 09:58 PM   #6
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Default Re: Controller Bypass

Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy4639 View Post

The cart that year you saw it only ran in the Fifties with regular cart batteries. He has done a lot of work on it sine then.

The bypass is a working peice in the cart and it has been since I owned it. My son & daughter both like it and understand it. I forgot to mention this morning the first thing you do if it sticks is put the cart in neutral! On a E-Z-GO F/R switch if you weld a contactor up the F?R switch will cut the power off to the motor in neutral if it doesn't fail...which as we all know is subject to happen in any kind of electrical part. This is why I have the other 2 backups.
The Bypass is as safe as I can make it. That doesn't mean it's for everyone else though. You need to understand the risk and know what to do if it doesn't go as planned.
I totally agree. Use at your own risk. And have a backup plan. And another back up plan. Or,,,,, get a controller powerful enough that you dont need a by-pass and you dont have to worry about all of this.

I am glad that you have your safety precautions in place. I just dont think that this method should be promoted to the average carter that wants to get into drag racing. In the wrong hands, it could be bad.
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Old 04-11-2011, 10:16 PM   #7
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Default Re: Controller Bypass

Maybe this discussion would be easier to follow if we defined what a controller bypass is and does. How does it work?
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Old 04-11-2011, 10:20 PM   #8
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Default Re: Controller Bypass

I don't know of any controller that will handle this. I have talked with a bunch of people about this. Just as the orignal statement about the Logistic controller want handle it. Mine is a 950 amp controller. It doesn't do the same as with the Bypass. The pictures Video tell that story!
The Altrax I have been using is a 450 amp and it runs the Bypass fine with no problems it's the same controller I first installed in the Mud Buggie back in 1995.
Every connection that the juice flows through takes a bit away from the end result. The less connections components you run through on the system the more power you deliver to the motor. In turn means more torque and speed in a hurry to get the 1/8 mile times I want.

Quote:
TDAWG,
I am glad that you have your safety precautions in place. I just dont think that this method should be promoted to the average carter that wants to get into drag racing. In the wrong hands, it could be bad.
I guess we shouldn't promote running anything over 48 volts then either to the average carter to drag race.
Quote:
TDAWG,
In the wrong hands, it could be bad.
That is why we come here to learn and see what the guy's that do try stuff are getting done. This is why Im posting this info. So people will know what is going on and make there own decission on what they want to do with there cart. If like me once they start it keeps moving up in speed and voltage to what all of us have to decide is our limit. Mine has been 72 volts now 1995 at the second Bonanza. This is my comfort voltage.
I can't speak for everyone but only give info on what I have learned by trying something you are anyone else dares not to.
I'm not a police man of drag racing. I'm a racer that likes to try things and see what happens.
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Old 04-11-2011, 10:39 PM   #9
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Default Re: Controller Bypass

Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy4639 View Post
I don't know of any controller that will handle this. I have talked with a bunch of people about this. Just as the orignal statement about the Logistic controller want handle it. Mine is a 950 amp controller. It doesn't do the same as with the Bypass. The pictures Video tell that story!
The Altrax I have been using is a 450 amp and it runs the Bypass fine with no problems it's the same controller I first installed in the Mud Buggie back in 1995.
Every connection that the juice flows through takes a bit away from the end result. The less connections components you run through on the system the more power you deliver to the motor. In turn means more torque and speed in a hurry to get the 1/8 mile times I want.



I guess we shouldn't promote running anything over 48 volts then either to the average carter to drag race.
That is why we come here to learn and see what the guy's that do try stuff are getting done. This is why Im posting this info. So people will know what is going on and make there own decission on what they want to do with there cart. If like me once they start it keeps moving up in speed and voltage to what all of us have to decide is our limit. Mine has been 72 volts now 1995 at the second Bonanza. This is my comfort voltage.
I can't speak for everyone but only give info on what I have learned by trying something you are anyone else dares not to.
I'm not a police man of drag racing. I'm a racer that likes to try things and see what happens.
I think you may have mis-understood something I said. Let me clarify. I said that you could get a controller powerful enough that you dont need to run a by-pass. And therefore, not have to worry about all the safety precautions. The pictures and video do not tell the story. The ET tells the story. The quickest carts out there in the 1/8th mile do not use a bypass. If you use a good enough controller, you dont need a bypass.

Gornoman, bypass is basiclly a shunt between B- and M- on controller. Full battery pack power straight to motor. Bypasses entire electrical system. Good for instant power but you better have your shut down plans in place or you can end up with a ghost rider cart.
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Old 04-11-2011, 10:50 PM   #10
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Question Re: Controller Bypass

The fastest 1/8 mile carts are higher voltage than mine. I said for mine it's the fastest way to get to the end of a 1/8 mile. And yes the pictures and video do tell the story for my cart. The carts are all going to be differant at higher voltages or at the same voltage. I said for the comfort zone I'm at 72 volts. There isn't a controller out there for 72 volts that can handle the amps the Bypass puts out except for one that I know of and I don't have the funds to spend that kind of money on a cart I run a few times a year. It's not worth it to me or the average carter as you called them earlier!
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