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Electric Club Car Electric DS, and Precedent golf cars |
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09-26-2017, 12:23 PM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 14
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1995 Club Car DS Won't Move
Let me start by saying that I would greatly appreciate any feedback anyone could give. I feel like I am so close to finishing this rebuild but am stuck!
I have a 1995 Club Car DS 36v with controller, no resistor coils, no obc. I just replaced the solenoid, diode, resistor and put brand new batteries in it. I also just replaced all three micro switches at the f/n/r and the micro switch inside of the vglide. The battery pack after just being on the charger read at 39.1v. Is that too high? Should I be concerned? When I turn the key and move the handle to either forward or revere, I hear the solenoid click. This is without pushing the pedal. I believe this is because the vglide arm is already pushing on the microswitch in the vglide. I have manually reached in and pushed the vglide arm as far back as it would go and then the solenoid clicks when the pedal is pushed, not when put into gear.- I believe I can make this adjustment so I am not worried about it. When pushing the accelerator, I hear the "whine" from the controller but the cart will not move. The two large cables (white and blue) running into my f/n/r setup get warm. The orange and blue cables running from the f/n/r to the motor get extremely hot. Just last night, I disassembled the f/n/r, made sure all of the copper contacts were clean and making good contact, re-installed everything, but the cart continues to not move and just makes the whining noise and the cables hot. I have previously tested the motor with a jump box and it worked without issue. How can I determine if my issue is the f/n/r, the controller, or possibly a lose connection at the solenoid or elsewhere? I do have a digital voltmeter. If my controller is shot, would I still hear the whine when the pedal is pressed? Sorry for the long post, just trying to be as thorough as possible. Again, any help would be greatly appreciated. I can't stop thinking about what the problem could be, it's driving me crazy! |
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09-26-2017, 01:16 PM | #2 | |
MOD of all BS!
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 17,477
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Re: 1995 Club Car DS Won't Move
Quote:
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09-26-2017, 01:31 PM | #3 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 9,329
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Re: 1995 Club Car DS Won't Move
The solenoid should click when the micro-switch inside the VGlide is released, not when it is depressed (I was not sure from your description).
The heat is a likely indication the high current cables are not wired correctly. Visually follow the cables from the motor terminals and make sure they go to the correct place on the FNR and Controller. This wiring diagram should be similar to your cart: |
09-26-2017, 05:42 PM | #4 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 14
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Re: 1995 Club Car DS Won't Move
I appreciate the responses.
The controller is a Curtis PMC model 1204-015. It turns out I did have the white and blue wires reversed on the side of the f/n/r but now that I've corrected them, still no movement and the all cables, especially the orange and blue cables that run to s1 and s2 on the motor are extremely warm when I push the accelerator All other wiring looks correct.... |
09-26-2017, 05:57 PM | #5 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 9,329
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Re: 1995 Club Car DS Won't Move
Can you post pictures of the fnr, controller and motor connections?
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09-26-2017, 06:07 PM | #6 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 14
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Re: 1995 Club Car DS Won't Move
Hopefully you can see these images well enough. Let me know if I need to post a different way.
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09-26-2017, 08:51 PM | #7 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 9,329
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Re: 1995 Club Car DS Won't Move
The connections look right, but I want to make sure I understand correctly where is hot.
Either excessive current (short inside the motor or miss-wire) or excessive resistance (bad cable or connections) can cause heat. Let's focus on the Orange cable between the FNR swivel post and the Motor S1 post. Is the entire cable hot or just near one or both of the ends? Can You clip your voltmeter probes to both ends of the Orange cable and measure the voltage on the cable itself when the pedal is down and it gets hot? If the voltage drop on the cable is low, You should do a resistance test on the motor (with all of the cables disconnected). You should get very low resistance between A1 and A2 and between S1 and S2. You should get no resistance (OL on some meters) between any post and the motor frame or between A1/A2 and S1/S2. |
09-26-2017, 08:59 PM | #8 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 14
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Re: 1995 Club Car DS Won't Move
Alright. The entire orange cable gets hot. With the black end of the voltmeter on the motor end and the red end of the voltmeter at the f/n/r, the voltmeter read -0.4. When I put the black end of the voltmeter on the fnr and the red end on the motor side of the orange cable, the voltmeter was at 0.7
Do these readings make sense? Would you suggest I do a resistance test? |
09-26-2017, 09:04 PM | #9 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 9,329
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Re: 1995 Club Car DS Won't Move
That likely means high current is what is causing the heat, if it was high resistance, the voltage drop on the cable would have to be a lot higher to cause the motor not to run.
Do a quick test before disconnecting the cables from the motor for the resistance test. Put the FNR in Neutral and measure the resistance between the FNR swivel posts where the Blue and Orange cables are connected, it should be very low if they go directly to the motor S1 and S2 posts. |
09-26-2017, 09:09 PM | #10 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 14
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Re: 1995 Club Car DS Won't Move
No reading at all when connecting the voltmeter between the orange and blue swivel posts when in neutral.
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