I'm going to modify my 2015 BadBoy Ambush. Input Requested.

[SET MEDIC]

So I bought a Bad Boy Ambush Hybrid last year. I thought I did enough research and was purchasing the perfect vehicle for my line of work. Boy was that a mistake. If I had known then what I know now...

It is now in the shop for the third time and the warranty is going to expire soon. So this is probably the last time it will be repaired under warranty. Its spent more time down and in the shop than it has on the road and working. This last time it died on while on an emergency call. I'm going broke having to rent a replacement cart while its in the shop and plan this weekend to purchase something inexpensive to use while I rebuild / modify my Ambush.

As you know The Ambush uses a computer to control the separate gas and electric systems. This component or portions of the controller system have failed now three times on my cart. My plan is to separate the systems completely and have them run independently of each other.

I want to use a 48v EZ-GO cart's electric controller system up front for the electric drive. The rental I have now has the type of system I want to use up front. It has a key to turn it off and on and a switch on the dash to select forward and reverse. (Sepex - right? - And I think the bad boy is the same - since it is still switched electrically by the key)

I then want to use a manual cable for the rear drive to select Forward and Reverse on the rear drive Gas system. Ive seen these on many rear wheel drive gas golf carts. I'm not sure what else I need or will need to modify to control the two cylinder subaru motor for the rear wheel drive but my intention is to run it completely separate of the electric system.

My thoughts are that even if there is no controller to "sync" the two systems I am mostly in electric OR gas drive. Rarely in 4wd and when I am, the difference in drive speed will be minimal and I will be on a loose surface where i don't have to worry to much about bind or drag from one system running faster or slower than the other.

I am indending on purchasing a parts 48v cart to raid the controller and electronics out of. My batteries are in decent shape and I intend to use them until they fail then make the investment in Lithium batteries.

I am posting to ask for thoughts on parts to use for this modification.

In my mind - although I know this is a monumental task - I will have the perfect cart for my needs... and something that is mechanical and completely dependable.

I don't know much about electric golf carts. But I do have a fair amount of experience with automotive electrical stuff - designing, building and wiring stereos, winches and the like and also working on emergency vehicles. I've also worked at a ambulance remount shop wiring old Modular Ambulance boxes onto new vehicle chassis. So, hopefully I've got enough base knowledge to make this work.

Does anyone have any thoughts? Would you do the same? I'm spending my days starting to research and source the parts needed for this project. And I will update my thread here as I start to make progress...

Your input is appreciated.

[SET MEDIC]

Nothing from anyone? Darn.

Well, I've been researching Lithium battery packs. And reading the posts on here. Not really understanding why some go with such small packs. I'm looking at using 4 of the Tesla Model S battery packs that use the 18650 cells.Wiring two parallel and two in series for 48 (52) volts at around 22kw/h. Should be good for a range of 150 or so miles... and still saving about 400 lbs. I am a little concerned over losing the weight over my front tires as most of my load is in the back of my cart and it already spins going up hills with soft ground. It doesn't do it as bad if I lock the front diff but that makes it hard to steer.

Still researching and learning as far as harnesses go. I am either going to purchase a complete EZ-Go harness or find a wrecked newer EZ-Go 48v cart and rob it. I would like to use a newer harness for retention of features like the regen system.

I can't get any answers out of Textron. I've got a few pictures of the schematics for my cart. I was trying to decide what, if anything will be reusable (controller, solenoid, key switch, etc.)

No updates yet. Still in the research phase. Still requesting suggestions if any of you have the time.

Thanks,

[Erle]

Wish I could help. I, too, am an Ambush owner, 2016 model. The change over switches between elec/gas & forward/reverse gave me fits. They have finally gotten them adjusted correctly & I have very little trouble now. I do not get much distance out of the elec feature. I can go about 4-5 miles per charge before I have to switch to gas. They have tested my batteries twice & said thats all I'm going to get on my particular hunting terrain.

I would be very much interested in what you find out & how your mod goes. My warranty will expire next Feb. then I will be free to made some mods to mine. I have the electrical training & experience as well as some mechanical.

Your reasoning sounds good to me. Don't see why it won't be a great improvement.

Keep us posted on your progress.

[SET MEDIC]

Originally Posted by Erle

Wish I could help. I, too, am an Ambush owner, 2016 model. The change over switches between elec/gas & forward/reverse gave me fits. They have finally gotten them adjusted correctly & I have very little trouble now. I do not get much distance out of the elec feature. I can go about 4-5 miles per charge before I have to switch to gas. They have tested my batteries twice & said thats all I'm going to get on my particular hunting terrain.

I would be very much interested in what you find out & how your mod goes. My warranty will expire next Feb. then I will be free to made some mods to mine. I have the electrical training & experience as well as some mechanical.

Your reasoning sounds good to me. Don't see why it won't be a great improvement.

Keep us posted on your progress.

Glad to know I'm not suffering alone! That was my first problem as well. I had to switch back and forth after running in gas mode to get the electric system to "catch". After a plug in at the dealer from the $1000 proprietary programmer having the range set on my shifting solenoid that problem went away for a couple months. Then it started blowing up the controlling computer. Not such an easy fix.

I will post up as I make progress. I was really hoping for some input from some of the experts on here. But it looks like I'll be figuring it out on my own.

I'm leaning heavily towards robbing a wrecked newer EZ-Go. The problem so far has been finding one new enough to retain all of the features of the newer carts.

Thanks for saying hello! Misery loves company! Haha.

By the way, If you want to make the investment, a Lithium Ion battery conversion would solve your range problems. It lightens up our carts significantly and if you use enough could easily give you 10x the range of you wet cell batteries.

I am still in the research phase of what will give me the most "bang for the buck." It's going to be a multi-thousand dollar investment...

[mjroman20]

If you will be separating the two drive systems and using a manual/mechanical changeover then I can almost grantee you will need to replace the controller or at least the software on it if its a Curtis 123x. This AC model has VCL and there are some things in the software that generate faults if certain conditions are not seen or met within the system.

However, Ii its a 1244 you should be able to pull this off.

[Hypersprint]

Originally Posted by SET MEDIC

By the way, If you want to make the investment, a Lithium Ion battery conversion would solve your range problems. It lightens up our carts significantly and if you use enough could easily give you 10x the range of you wet cell batteries.

I don't know if you have enough room or money to add enough lithium batteries to gain 10x your range. I went from a range of about 25+ miles to about 40 miles (these are street miles with street tires) with 124ah lithium pack over 8 6v trojans. My big test that I have not been able to check yet is off road range. With soft sand, mud and water crossings I will be happy if I get 15 miles on an average run. If I do better than that I may spring for the rest of the 4x4 kit from Renegade Distributing (I already have the rear axle). And, when off roading, I could turn my rig into a hybrid by taking a genny with me since my charger is onboard

[DaveTM]

Not trying to be a wise guy.....but because of all the issues the BBB's have, if your considering going to lithium, then why don't you just sell your current BBB in it's existing configuration.....because you know it works in it's existing configuration, and then buy a stock golf cart and strip it, then build it up with a limited slip differential. It's MHO that the correct set up all electric with a limited slip 2 wheel drive will get you anywhere a BBB that has one wheel driving the front and one driving the back will get you.

Plus, if you go lithium you know what you got....and you will get long milage, be very quiet, and if it breaks, you know how to fix it. Maybe it's me but it seems like a much better solution.

FWIW

[Ironman482]

I have a 2013 ambush that I got at a salvage auction, it had been under water. After realising all the electrical components were ruined, I just sripped all the wiring and contrlers and wire a new ignition switch for the 16 horse gas motor ,drained almost a quart of water out of the motor but it starts up and runs great ,the fwd and rev actuator on the diff. was toast so I found a shifter and bell crank on line and fabed up a bracket to get it to shift fed and rev. I bought a 22hp predator motor to replace the B&S 16 hp but the 16 runs so good I can't bring myself to change it, I dont have 4x4 but would defiantly like to modify mine like you are to gain the front wheel drive back ,I like the idea of using lithuim ion batterys but damm they are expensive, following this thread keep us posted

[Ironman482]

Just realized this thread is 1 1/2 years old
A little late to the party but curious if you got it going

[SET MEDIC]

I'm still here! After my third go around at the shop they got it right and I haven't had any problems out of it since. I've been collecting Tesla packs - they are so expensive I have to buy them two at a time. The project did get shelved for a bit. I lost my business partner and inherited his side of the ambulance service. I've gotten so busy with that - and the cart hasn't been acting up anymore that I've just let it be and used it for now. I had a skid made for it to hold a ambulance stretcher and I've put a limo roof on it and some new Whelen LED emergency lights and thats about it for now. I'll be doing the LiIon conversion this spring. I just ordered packs 3 & 4, I've got my charging system worked out and ready. I just need to build a box and put together the heating/cooling system I built for the batteries. Look for an update soon. I hope to have this finished in the next couple of months.

P.S. - I invested in my own Curtis programmer. That I think was my savior. I do think it came with one of the computers bad (the main controller) and that burned up both slave pieces one at a time. So, while it was in warranty those three pieces got replaced - the main computer being the last thing replaced. Now I just make sure I reset the range on the shift solenoid every couple of months and I haven't had another problem. I am still going with Tesla packs - but I'm going to use 6 now. 3 / 3 parallel and the last 2 in series. Leaving everything else alone / stock. Its been fine for a couple of years now. And I very rarely use the gas drive at all. 95% electric usage...