Golf Cart loading on tandem axle trailer Qs

[davjohn28]

i have a Yamaha G29 with 6" lift, 23" tires and rear seat setup.
I also have a GMC Sierra 1500 crew cab with level kit and 33" tires
MY trailer is a HD 16' X 6.5' tandem axle trailer.

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- When i pull cart all the way up on trailer it puts too much weight on the rear of truck/ tongue and makes for a rough bouncy ride.

- I have an idea ( see photos ) where i mounted 4 D-Rings to the floor board to secure front wheels. One D-ring on front and rear of each wheel and ratchet strap ran across.
I then ran strap across bottom of rear seat and cinch it to keep rear end from moving around. I haven't gone far with setup yet but wondering what your guys opinions are of this setup?

Most of my hauls will be 4-5hrs one way so making sure truck and trailer and loaded properly is most important to me.

Trailer still sits slightly higher in front so i may put a 2" drop ball to help level load out, what do you think?

The D-Rings are 400 working lbs each, so technically 800 each side which i think is Plenty to hold the cart in place. ( 1200lb break strength per ring)

[scottyb]

Balance wise, most of the electric golf cart weight is in the rear. The load looks fairly balanced in the pics with some tongue weight.
If the truck steers okay while hauling I would suggest the cart position on the trailer is okay. If the truck is light in the front (steering) then I would move the cart to the rear of the trailer 2-3 ft at a time to recheck.
I prefer to strap the cart towards the front and rear - as though stretching it .
Front axle pulled forwards and rear axle pulled to the rear

I hope this helps

[Mooncarter]

I think that is fine. Try it without dropping the ball first. If it tows OK I would leave it that way just in case you ever have something loaded in the truck too it will probably level out.

[DannyAbear]

Originally Posted by scottyb

Balance wise, most of the electric golf cart weight is in the rear. The load looks fairly balanced in the pics with some tongue weight.
If the truck steers okay while hauling I would suggest the cart position on the trailer is okay. If the truck is light in the front (steering) then I would move the cart to the rear of the trailer 2-3 ft at a time to recheck.
I prefer to strap the cart towards the front and rear - as though stretching it .
Front axle pulled forwards and rear axle pulled to the rear

I hope this helps

Just load it over the trailer axles; those D rings are only as good as waht they are attached to (wooden floorboards) I would criss cross straps front and rear to the sides of the trailer pulling forwards and backwards

[davjohn28]

i like the idea of running straps across the axles however with the mad jax front end im not sure where to attach straps to as its got the 6" lift which has struts, control arms. etc in the front... where do you suggest besides running a strap across the floorboard behind pedals?

[Rooster59]

Car hauler trailers that carry only the front tires all utilize straps on the car tires. That is the most secure method because you eliminate the slack potential on the straps if the towed vehicle suspension compresses and rebounds. You can bet U-Haul's engineers and lawyers influenced how their car towing trailer systems were built. Bound to be the optimum setup.

Use the same method on the rear tires as you used on the front tires. Unless you anticipate having to position the cart forward or rearward when hauling other items as well.

Do yourself a favor and dedicate straps to a tie down position then cut off all but up to a foot of the excess. No need to control the flapping tails that way. If you need full length straps for other jobs buy more for that. They are too cheap to spend time tying up loose ends. Melt the cut ends with a bbq lighter to keep them from fraying.

[Cobra,1]

General rules for towing.
A tongue whieght light load, cart too far to rear of trailer makes trailer sway.
You always want to have wheight bias to the front on trailers.
Having trailer sit level as much as possible is important.
Tie down cart with wheel straps if possible. It can help from not damaging suspension components.
Securing from body strapes only put suspension under full compression. In doing so hiring a large bump could snap a shock or leaf spring.
Your correction useing wheel strap tie downs.

That being said when towing mine on trailer I put strap on front of trailer across floorboard to keep from moving back. Two straps to rear axle to rear of trailer to keep cart from moving forward on panic stops.
Trailer should always be front wheight bias meaning front of trailer puts more wheight on tonunge compared to rear of trailer.
What is wheight of trailer and load compared to trucks towing compactly?
Towing a trailer will make truck bounce more then normal to a degree.
That trailer should be more then enough for your cart.😊

[davjohn28]

I hauled the cart on trailer this weekend exactly as shown in photo and it worked flawlessly. I had about an 8hr round trip with 50% travel at 55mph and the other half at 70MPh.. as it sits in photo the rear of trucks drops roughly 2 inches and trailer is slightly raised. I am going to buy a drop hitch as right now the 2” drop isn’t enough.
Most of my hauling will be multi hour hauls so i want to keep everything as flat and stable as possible. My suspension equalizer is always slightly uneven which hopefully getting the right hitch drop will take care of.

[Mooncarter]

Glad it worked out OK.

[DannyAbear]

Originally Posted by rooster59

car hauler trailers that carry only the front tires all utilize straps on the car tires. That is the most secure method because you eliminate the slack potential on the straps if the towed vehicle suspension compresses and rebounds. You can bet u-haul's engineers and lawyers influenced how their car towing trailer systems were built. Bound to be the optimum setup.

Use the same method on the rear tires as you used on the front tires. Unless you anticipate having to position the cart forward or rearward when hauling other items as well.

Do yourself a favor and dedicate straps to a tie down position then cut off all but up to a foot of the excess. No need to control the flapping tails that way. If you need full length straps for other jobs buy more for that. They are too cheap to spend time tying up loose ends. Melt the cut ends with a bbq lighter to keep them from fraying.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^this