48 to 12V reducer wiring

[AubAlum0509]

My cart has been having charging issues. I believe it could be due to the way I connected my 48-12V reducer to the battery pack. I connected the Pos and negative straight to the battery packs, thus bypassing the OBC. Basically I have a 48V cart, and 6x 8V batteries, I connecte the Pos to the first in line battery and the neg to the last in line battery. Should I move one of these wires to somewhere else so the OBC is accounting for the voltage being used by the accessories connected to the Reducer?

I went to the Revolution website (Thanks TahoeDawg) and I had it wired just like the directions on the site.



So this brings me to back to my original problem, which is my Powerdrive charger will run only for a short amount of time. When I plug it it, I hear the click, and voltage jumps from 0 to approx 15V. Sometimes this will run for 2-3 minutes, and sometimes almost instantly, it just drops back to 0V, and then wont kick back in. The charger makes a constant hum, but doesnt apply Voltage anymore.
Thanks!

[NoleFan4Ever]

Yes, the Positive can go to the Battery side large post of the solenoid and the Negative can go to the B- at the controller. The OBC will the account for the energy units used on your converter.

[Hunter450]

We have the same model cart and similar upgrades. As Nole stated, you can connect the 48 volt positive to the solenoid or leave it connected to the pack positive battery post as you have done. I elected to use the battery post for easy access to the in-line fuse. Just raise the seat to check vs crawling up under the cart to check if you have something blocking the access hatch above the controller.
Wire the negative to the B- terminal on the controller as suggested.

[noserider]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

Yes, the Positive can go to the Battery side large post of the solenoid and the Negative can go to the B- at the controller. The OBC will the account for the energy units used on your converter.

Why is this important for the OBC to account for the energy used.

[AubAlum0509]

Originally Posted by noserider

Why is this important for the OBC to account for the energy used.

Because the OBC will only charge back the batteries what has been taken out. I had a bunch of LED spotlights, winch, etc that was wired seperate, and over time, it brought my batteries down.

Think about this, if you go for a night stroll, and you use 1% of your battery capacity to run the lights, if you have it wired outside of the OBC, then you lose that 1% battery upon recharge. Think about doing this 30 times, now all the sudden, you can only recharge to 70%. I had a few nights where we rode for hours, with the LEDS on, so I was probably down to about 35-40 of what my batteries should have been, when fully recharged. A full recharge would get me about 47.8V. Now, it has me back to over 52V. This really worked well...

[noserider]

That's interesting. I would have thought that when the batteries are being charged the OBC charges them up and when they reach 64 or so volts the OBC shuts the charger off. I have a cheap 4 wire reducer with no key switch wire connected directly to the batts. Never a problem getting a resting pack voltage of 100% after charging.

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by noserider

That's interesting. I would have thought that when the batteries are being charged the OBC charges them up and when they reach 64 or so volts the OBC shuts the charger off. I have a cheap 4 wire reducer with no key switch wire connected directly to the batts. Never a problem getting a resting pack voltage of 100% after charging.

SOC is 50.93 volts on a 48v pack. US's routinely will have over 51.7 volts 12 hours after charging. Some higher. An OBC senses the energy being used as it goes thru the Hall sensor of the OBC. It uses a method known as coulomb counting and in principle its purpose is to put back 110% energy units that were removed.

The amount of rise in the voltage of the Powerdrive is controlled by the OBC and is according to which phase of the charge sequence it is in. The OBC must see 58.3 volts or it will not turn off, so the Powerdrive can run up voltage from there to ~65+ volts.

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by AubAlum0509

-snip-

So this brings me to back to my original problem, which is my Powerdrive charger will run only for a short amount of time. When I plug it it, I hear the click, and voltage jumps from 0 to approx 15V. Sometimes this will run for 2-3 minutes, and sometimes almost instantly, it just drops back to 0V, and then wont kick back in. The charger makes a constant hum, but doesnt apply Voltage anymore.
Thanks!

I missed all this part as it was below the pic. The converter is not causing that problem. It is an issue with Rectifier or Heatsink (based on which powerdrive you have) or an OBC issue. If the charger is humming but not charging and it is a DS, the fuse is bad at the charge receptacle, but since yours does initially charge and then quit, it makes me think the other suggestions I mentioned.

When you move the Neg to the B- you will have the pack disconnected. This will reset the OBC and may help.

[AubAlum0509]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

I missed all this part as it was below the pic. The converter is not causing that problem. It is an issue with Rectifier or Heatsink (based on which powerdrive you have) or an OBC issue. If the charger is humming but not charging and it is a DS, the fuse is bad at the charge receptacle, but since yours does initially charge and then quit, it makes me think the other suggestions I mentioned.

When you move the Neg to the B- you will have the pack disconnected. This will reset the OBC and may help.

First off, thanks for the replies Nolefan. I live in PCB, so lots of Noles around here.

As for the Cart, I completely removed the Voltage Reducer, and disco the pack for 10 minutes, reconnected the pack, and charged. It has been charging for 16 hours or so now, and my pack is back up to 60.1V. This is amazing, I have never seen the pack get that high, even new. I now think that my old batteries were in fact, not bad, just this issue, as I didnt rewire when getting new batteries. I did the compelte rewire before.

So appareantly my Voltage reducer wired the way I had it was the culprit. I am going to rewire with the + coming from the solenoid and the - going to the B- on Controller.

Thanks again to everyone who responded, and for anyone having a similar problem, try this, as it works.

[NoleFan4Ever]

And not long after 16 hours it will time out and shut off. This is by design. Just use it a little and place it back on charge. It should then easily finish the full charge and turn off automatically. If it does not, please let us know as something else is amiss in the OBC.