Motor Replacement

[That4car]

I recently purchased a motor for my EZGo Marathon Cart. The motor that came out of the cart had part number 73124Go1. I purchased Advanced Motors DE4-4011 as I read that it is a direct replacement. The original motor (older) had A1, A2, S1, S2 terminals. THe replacement motor has A1, A2, F1, F2. Do F1 and F2 replace S1 and S2, directly, or should the motor be wired differently with this motor. The armature in the old motor was warped and hit the secondary coils as it rotated.

Thank you,

[JohnnieB]

Are you sure you have a Marathon body style?

The part number of the old motor (73124-G01) is a sepex motor that was used in DCS drive systems (Medalist and TXT body styles - circa 1995-2000).

However if that is what came out and was running before it failed, a DE4-4011 will replace it.

F1 & F2 are the same as S1 & S2, except the stud size is smaller.

[Sir Nuke]

Originally Posted by That4car

I recently purchased a motor for my EZGo Marathon Cart. The motor that came out of the cart had part number 73124Go1. I purchased Advanced Motors DE4-4011 as I read that it is a direct replacement. The original motor (older) had A1, A2, S1, S2 terminals. THe replacement motor has A1, A2, F1, F2. Do F1 and F2 replace S1 and S2, directly, or should the motor be wired differently with this motor. The armature in the old motor was warped and hit the secondary coils as it rotated.

Thank you,

IF in fact The original motor (older) had A1, A2, S1, S2 terminals, and all 4 studs are the same size.... it is a SERIES motor.....I would have to look at the number on the original motor real close to see if you miss read it. OR like Johnnie ask....are you SURE its a marathon?

Find your serial number and run it through the EZGO look up

https://shop.ezgo.com/customer-servi...ialNumber.html

[That4car]

I mis-spoke, it is a 1999 TXT.

[Sir Nuke]

ok......so did you run the serial number?


do you know FOR SURE, if you have a RUN/TOW switch? or not?

[That4car]

Thanks for the follow up. I ran the serial number 1234856. It is indeed a 99 TXT. I do have a run/tow switch. It tries to run with the new motor, but still no go.

I have gone through the diagnostics. The only thing I find that is out of spec is that when I do the ITS test, I have 13.9V vice 14. When I disconnect the cables as suggested the voltage does go above 14V. Can 0.1V really keep the cart from running? Thanks again,

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Sir Nuke

IF in fact The original motor (older) had A1, A2, S1, S2 terminals, and all 4 studs are the same size.... it is a SERIES motor.....I would have to look at the number on the original motor real close to see if you miss read it. OR like Johnnie ask....are you SURE its a marathon?

Find your serial number and run it through the EZGO look up

https://shop.ezgo.com/customer-servi...ialNumber.html

Not true.............All 4 studs on a stock DCS motor where the same size. (1/4-20 threads)

https://shop.ezgo.com/products/Elect...ol-System.html

I suspect the confusion caused by the studs of the series and sepex motors of that era being labeled the same and looking the same, resulted in so many mistakes that the "S" studs were renamed "F" studs and made smaller when the next generation of the sepex drive (PDS) was introduced.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by That4car

Thanks for the follow up. I ran the serial number 1234856. It is indeed a 99 TXT. I do have a run/tow switch. It tries to run with the new motor, but still no go.

I have gone through the diagnostics. The only thing I find that is out of spec is that when I do the ITS test, I have 13.9V vice 14. When I disconnect the cables as suggested the voltage does go above 14V. Can 0.1V really keep the cart from running? Thanks again,

Probably not.

What is the voltage on Pin-1 (white wire) when pedal is pushed just far enough for solenoid to click and when pedal is on floor? (Should be 0.45V to 0.53V pedal up and greater than 1.5V with pedal down)

However, since the armature and field windings got together when the old motor failed, I suspect the shorted motor took the controller out.

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Measure between the B- and M- terminals on the controller when the pedal is pushed just far enough for solenoid to click and you should read fully battery pack voltage. (38.2V if pack is fully charged)

If you get full pack voltage, slowly press pedal to floor and the voltage should smoothly decrease to zero volts. If it doesn't either the controller or Throttle input to the controller is bad.

Also check the F1/F2 cables for worn insulation. See attached picture.

[That4car]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Probably not.

What is the voltage on Pin-1 (white wire) when pedal is pushed just far enough for solenoid to click and when pedal is on floor? (Should be 0.45V to 0.53V pedal up and greater than 1.5V with pedal down)

However, since the armature and field windings got together when the old motor failed, I suspect the shorted motor took the controller out.

----------
Measure between the B- and M- terminals on the controller when the pedal is pushed just far enough for solenoid to click and you should read fully battery pack voltage. (38.2V if pack is fully charged)

If you get full pack voltage, slowly press pedal to floor and the voltage should smoothly decrease to zero volts. If it doesn't either the controller or Throttle input to the controller is bad.

Also check the F1/F2 cables for worn insulation. See attached picture.

When I measure between M- and B-, I get 36V when the battery pack is at 38. When the pedal is fully depressed, voltage drops to 26V but doesn't go to zero.

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by That4car

When I measure between M- and B-, I get 36V when the battery pack is at 38. When the pedal is fully depressed, voltage drops to 26V but doesn't go to zero.

If the wheels are spinning this could be a controller issue but if the wheels are not spinning then the issue lies in the F&R switch or the motor itself.