relay switch for convertor

[panteramatt]

Anyone know how much voltage at rest a converter uses? Im putting new lifpo4 batteries in my ds and was wondering if I should put a relay switch in to power it off with the key? Also, couldnt I just put an inline toggle switch to power the converter off when not in use long term?

[augiedoggy]

Originally Posted by panteramatt

Anyone know how much voltage at rest a converter uses? Im putting new lifpo4 batteries in my ds and was wondering if I should put a relay switch in to power it off with the key? Also, couldnt I just put an inline toggle switch to power the converter off when not in use long term?

One member last week reported .2amps draw with the reducer and curtis controller on..

I measured the power draw of both my 500a Curtis controllers and they only use .02 amps when powered up so that means the reducer is using most of the current and even .18 amp draw is enough to kill most carts in under 3 weeks whether plugged into the charger or not since most chargers dont turn themselves back on and top off the batteries as they drain unless the power is cycled on and off on the charger to restart it.

this is the relay I bought before I ended up just replacing the whole reducer with a pro chaser that already has the relay/key switch wire built in. https://www.ebay.com/itm/134208654199

[Beerman24]

I put in marine on/off battery switches like below in on mine, that way they never come on unless I need them. Keep in mind amp draw once that switch is turned on all power/draw has to run through it. That’s why I went with below.

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syst...44562872&psc=1

[augiedoggy]

Originally Posted by Beerman24

I put in marine on/off battery switches like below in on mine, that way they never come on unless I need them. Keep in mind amp draw once that switch is turned on all power/draw has to run through it. That’s why I went with below.

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syst...44562872&psc=1

This is to disconnect your entire battery pack from the cart though right?

You do realize even a 30a rated reducer only requires a regular 15-20a rated dc switch right? They draw much less current at 48v to produce more current at less that a 1/3rd of the voltage.

The contacts on the relays and switches will often burn up over time from the arching each time the reducer is activated which is why a reducer with an actual key switch wire which often has a means to suppress the spark/arching will be more reliable with less maintenance.

[Beerman24]

Originally Posted by augiedoggy

This is to disconnect your entire battery pack from the cart though right?

You do realize even a 30a rated reducer only requires a regular 15-20a rated dc switch right? They draw much less current at 48v to produce more current at less that a 1/3rd of the voltage.

The contacts on the relays and switches will often burn up over time from the arching each time the reducer is activated which is why a reducer with an actual key switch wire which often has a means to suppress the spark/arching will be more reliable with less maintenance.

Not sure I understand your question, but its to disconnect the reducer and then to give it power when needed. Basically powering any 12v you need when you want without it being on all the time. All that switch does is cut power (off) or connect power (on) to the reducer. He asked about a toggle switch, this is basically that.

[augiedoggy]

Originally Posted by Beerman24

Not sure I understand your question, but its to disconnect the reducer and then to give it power when needed. Basically powering any 12v you need when you want without it being on all the time. All that switch does is cut power (off) or connect power (on) to the reducer. He asked about a toggle switch, this is basically that.

In that case your using extreme overkill.
You have a 300a battery disconnect switch to turn on and off 10-15a of power. That is not a toggle switch but a rotory disconnect meant for things like boats where you want to isolate 2-4awg battery terminals from the batteries.. sure it will work but... Why?

In this case the switch to turn the headlights on and off more often actually requires a higher amp rating than the reducer power switch.. (ohms law comes in here but basically when you reduce the voltage you increase the current going to what your powering at that lower voltage)

This is why the main power wires for some reducers are thinner than the output 12v wires which are the ones carrying the higher current. A 20a reducer for example delivers 20amps at 12v but it only draws like 6-10 amps from the battery at say 48v through the switch we are talking about. Thats why the 20a reducers will have a 10a fuse at most on the input side where this switch would be wired.


OP, something like this is rated for more than enough current than your reducer requires.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/38264971042...Bk9SR7ym5bjiYQ

Off topic a bit but,

its also the same reason the amp load on things like the forward and reverse switch and wires actually goes down when converting a cart from 36v to 48v or even more so for 72v unlike the misconception that all the wires should be beefed up for that conversion alone.. the only time that would be required is if a bigger amp controller and motor was being installed as well.

[Beerman24]

Originally Posted by augiedoggy

In that case your using extreme overkill.
You have a 300a battery disconnect switch to turn on and off 10-15a of power. That is not a toggle switch but a rotory disconnect meant for things like boats where you want to isolate 2-4awg battery terminals from the batteries.. sure it will work but... Why?

Why not lol And it works and is water proof and don’t have to worry about blowing switches etc., it’s worth $20 to me

And yes I know it’s overkill. LOL