1990 (ish) Ez-Go rear end spline?

[BestAsbestos]

Anyone know the spline of the rear end on a 1990 EZ-GO? I've seen some things suggesting its a 19 spline if anyone can confirm that? I am trying to find something like this that will fit onto it https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RJVQ14W/ . That might be right but I'm using #40 chain.
You see these lined up better then I was anticipating so my plans to put a sprocket on the old electric motor's shaft won't work.



Thanks for your help.

[Timothy L]

The rear end input shaft is 19 spline

I’m in the process of converting an electric ezgo to gas right now. It’s been a lot more difficult than I anticipated but it’s been fun. I don’t see anywhere where that sprocket says 19 spline. You could always buy it to test it and then return it if it doesn’t work. How would you get it to stay on the input shaft even if it did line up?

One thing someone tried to do with mine before I got it is cut off the spline from the motor and weld a flat sprocket to it. I think that might actually be a decent option but unfortunately they didn’t weld it on straight and it wobbled so I had to try something else. The also wrecked the input shaft by trying to drill a hole for a set screw. Maybe that would work to hold it on if it was done right?

I had seen a few people online do what I finally ended up doing and I knew it would be a lot of work but it was my last option. I stripped an old motor and cut everything off the shaft (not as easy as it sounds!) and got a sprocket that fit on the shaft (1 1/8 bore fit after I mounted the shaft on a lathe and sanded it down a little to make it smooth). Then I cut a window in the motor housing with a grinder for the chain.

It was a good bit of work but I couldn’t think of any other way to get something on there strong. My engine made the sprocket much farther out than yours and it needed to be supported at the end so it wouldn’t wobble. That’s why I wanted to use a motor that bolted on and had a bearing on the back end. But yours sticks out so little that you might not need it to be supported on the end.

I don’t have a very good picture of the current setup as the picture I have was meant to show the chain tensioner I used but maybe it will give you an idea. I plan to make a video about all this when I’m done with the whole project hopefully explaining some things to people I had to figure out. There’s not much info online for these conversions.

[trig123]

You are going to have to figure out how to make these pictures smaller to start with.

[BestAsbestos]

Oh cool you're doing the same thing, lets swap notes or something? And yes I know the one I posted won't work its just an example of the kind of part I'm looking for.

A much easier way to get the shaft out of the motor is to use a hydraulic press. Just press it and the other parts of the motor break off. My shaft was also JUUUUUUST over 1" diameter but I'm fortunate to know people with access to lathes and got it turned down. But now I'm probablly not even going to use that shaft.

How did you mount your engine? I had a lot of trouble figuring that part out but eventually settled on one of these things. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XHVSPMC/
Whats that chain tensioner setup you have? I think the one I was planning to use (a serpentine belt tensioner with a #40 idler sprocket on it) might be too big.

[Timothy L]

I don’t own or know anyone with a hydraulic press unfortunately. I thought about one the whole time I sat there grinding it though [emoji23]

You’ve got the hard part already done it sounds like. If I were you I would probably order a sprocket to weld onto the shaft so you have a good sturdy setup that is bolted on to the rear end with a bearing on the end of the motor. (Actually I don’t know if that would work since your drive sprocket is so far over. You might not be lined up even if you had the sprocket all the way down the shaft.)

I bolted the engine to an angle iron frame I welded into the cart in place of the battery tray.
It’s not good looking but it does the job.

The chain tensioner is another thing where I tried everything until I finally came across this part that really saved the day. I’m really pleased with it and it does it’s job well. I hesitated putting so much money into just a chain tensioner but it’s the only kind available so I was left without a choice and finally bit the bullet. Works perfectly

https://www.ebay.com/itm/38520569035...mis&media=COPY

I had a hard time coming up with a good way to mount that to the cart where it would push up on the bottom of the chain but I finally came up with something. I’ll have to share some pictures tomorrow of the whole setup.

[BestAsbestos]

I see, I ended up making this swingarm so the engine can move with the rearend. Hopefully your chain doesn't twist as things move around?

[Timothy L]

That looks nicer than what I did. The chain doesn’t twist it just loosens when you sit down on it or go over a bump since it’s attached to the cart not and rear end which is why I needed a chain tensioner.

[Timothy L]

You can’t really clearly see the engine mount or how I mounted the chain tensioner with the engine installed.



Yes I desperately need a bigger muffler!

[dundeebarnbuggy]

This has been tried numerous times with little success. Tip; make your engine cradle attach rigidly to the rear axle and float in the front. That is what will keep your shaft centers in align and same distance apart whether loaded or empty. Then your chain tensioner can be mounted rigid or deleted altogether if you make the motor plate with slots to allow you to tighten the chain. Now,, how are you guys going to achieve a reverse gear?

[Timothy L]

I have no reverse as of now. There are reverse gearboxes they make for go carts I have been considering but I’m going to wait until I get everything else figured out first.