![]() |
|
Electric Yamaha Electric Yamaha Golf Cars; G1 through "The Drive" and U-Max Utility Vehicles |
![]() ![]() |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
![]() |
#21 |
Getting Wild
![]() Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Clearwater, Florida
Posts: 106
|
![]() I need to put this Ann piece in and then put the batteries in. Is there anything that should be done prior to checking it? New batteries and new controller, Just hit accelerate? Lol
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
![]() __________________
This advertising will not be shown in this way to registered members. Register your free account today and become a member on Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum |
|
![]() |
#22 |
Getting Wild
![]() Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Clearwater, Florida
Posts: 106
|
![]() Do I leave the other/original fuse in ? The one from the tow switch. Does this look right lol
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#23 |
Getting Wild
![]() Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Clearwater, Florida
Posts: 106
|
![]() Please excuse my electrical wrap job. The lights aren't hooked up and the sun is slowly going down, quick wrap!
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#24 |
Getting Wild
![]() Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Clearwater, Florida
Posts: 106
|
![]() It skips, stutters, acts like it wants to go.
Green light on the controller. Terminals on the new batteries are at the edge of the battery instead of the middle like the last set..naturally cables are a tad short, so I have it slightly rigged (used the terminal thingy that was on the marine battery, I replaced. Possible that connection may not be the best.. Also have the original fuse still in play coming from the tow switch with a 10amp fuse in it.. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#25 |
British born Nincompoop
![]() ![]() Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 2,261
|
![]() Disconnect your battery pack now!. You have the main fuse wired across the solenoid by the look of it, and probably your issue. It needs to be ideally on the battery pack positive post and then the main fat cable from the other side of the fuse to the solenoid. I think you have confused the fuse with the diode here. If you look at the Alltrax diagram again, it is item no 3 right by the battery positive terminal. wired in series. The only thing connected across the small solenoid terminals should be a diode. If you do not have one supplied in the kit, you can still get the cart working and order one from ScottyB later. You need to remove that fuse from where it is and fit it at the battery as shown in the diagram. If you look at The picture Kgsc posted, you can clearly see it bolted to the battery and the fat solenoid cable is bolted to the other end of the fuse. The smaller cable in his picture is most likely the charge receptacle connection.
Kgsc has fitted it to the negative battery pack post but it can be wired either there or on the positive post as shown in your diagram. Maybe it is for his charger receptacle as it looks like you also have a smaller wire on your positive battery post and i assume this is probably charge receptacle wiring too, If so you can do the same. Just yours will be on the positive battery post. See Kgsc's picture here. https://www.buggiesgonewild.com/atta...1&d=1677705748 Hopefully this makes sense and we can get you going. You have a green light on the controller which is good, you have movement of sorts, so another good sign, You just need to mimic the diagram wiring exactly as shown. Come on Sam, you are nearly there. What happened to all we taught you so far ![]() And you really need to replace those two cables with the round post clamps with the correct ones or crimp new ring terminals to the existing cables if they are long enough. Edit. If you rearrange your battery layout, You can use most the cables you have. As long as you have all four batteries connected together in series to give a total of 48 volts it will be fine. I think you can probably just turn all the batteries around so that the terminals are on the inside of each pair therefore closer, you should be able to make that work with the cables you have apart from the one that connects both pairs ( looks like it is green ). the main cables from the batteries to the controller and solenoid just need to see a total of 48 volts. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#26 |
Getting Wild
![]() Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Clearwater, Florida
Posts: 106
|
![]() Goodness
![]() Ok, So I remove the fuse(10amp) from the original place. (Coming off the tow switch and running to the positive side of the solenoid) and connect it from the solenoid positive to the thick battery positive? The gold diode thingy is connected between the 2 small terminals on the solenoid.. Isn't that where it goes? |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#27 |
Getting Wild
![]() Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Clearwater, Florida
Posts: 106
|
![]() Ok, So not sure where I got that the Ann thing was the diode. Oh mylanta!
So I need to go purchase a diode. What amp? |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#28 |
British born Nincompoop
![]() ![]() Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 2,261
|
![]() Your solenoid is rated at 400Amp so my guess would be 3 amp according to your instruction sheet. If you want to confirm that, just call ScottyB and he can also supply them. I am surprised one was not included in your Alltrax kit. You should be able to test the new controller without the diode for now if you have got all the wiring correct. I do not understand what you mean by removing the ten amp original fuse as that is what supplies and protects power to the low amp circuits. The Big ANN fuse supplies and protects the High amp motor drive circuit.
Remember, when you do get a Diode, the end with the silver band connects to the same terminal on the solenoid as the red/yellow wire or red/white if you still have it connected to red/yellow but i guess you took the red /yellow directly to the solenoid now, and the other end of the diode connects to the same terminal as the red/black wire. If you get it wrong you may destroy the diode. You can also get your 1N5408 diode from any electronic component suppliers. Amazon for example you could probably buy a pack of ten for little money and crimp your own ring terminal connectors to them. Then you have spares in case you make a mistake LOL https://www.amazon.com/BOJACK-Rectif...s%2C208&sr=8-4 50 for seven bucks ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#29 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,181
|
![]() Many of the sellers of those solenoids include the necessary resistor and diode but you can buy them separate and ready to install from a number of places.. Here is one https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Hea...ps%2C99&sr=8-3
and here is an example of the resistor if you dont already have one. https://www.amazon.com/World-9-99-Ma...dDbGljaz10cnVl here an example of how they should be installed remember the white line on the diode always goes towards the red or yellow striped solenoid coil screw. (a1 screw in the pic below) |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#30 |
Happy Carting
![]() ![]() Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southern California
Posts: 72,746
|
![]() Sepex controllers do not use a resistor.
The solenoid diode is redundant. There is built in protection for fly-back voltage in this control. You can definitely test without it. And Alltrax would like you to put the solenoid diode asap. Sorry to see these difficulties, I offered to email our simple install instruction offer like post #2. That Doc would not post here due to format restrictions. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
WTB Alltrax SR-48300 | Golf Carts and Parts | |||
Alltrax XCT-48300 YDRE 300 Amp $250 | Golf Carts and Parts | |||
Need help installing Alltrax XCT 48300 PDS 300 | Electric Club Car | |||
Alltrax SPM 48300 1 red 1 green error | Electric EZGO | |||
Alltrax SPM 48300 EZ 4 blink green | Electric EZGO |