2000 Club Car Carryall2 gas wiring advice needed

[JeterPop]

I have a 2000 Carryall2 I bought recently, serial# PG0006-868097. I don't know any history on it, I have 2 others and need a 3rd. Previous owner must have modified it to start and idle as the wiring is hacked and spliced here and there. Has an electric fuel pump. There's no ignition switch, it's been removed and wiring is hanging loose out the dash. Inside the black box which houses the solenoid is a relay.

I'd like it to start and run as it was originally intended, by turning the key on and pressing the gas pedal, then die when pedal is released. I've come across several wiring diagrams but only a few that have the relay like this one. I want to eliminate everything I can to make the wiring as simple as possible; no gear shift lever micro switches and a toggle switch instead of a key switch.
As it sits now I can "hotwire" it and make it run but it obviously doesn't respond to the gas pedal.

I have likely left out some important info on this post. Please let me know what I need to add to make it more clear. I only get on the computer once a day, usually in the morning. Any help and guidance is greatly appreciated

[meimk]

Many Carryall , Villager and the like were set up for "key start" like that. The relay in the control box is probably stock. To make it "pedal start" shouldn't be too hard. A toggle switch for on / off, the two micro switches in the control box wired like a regular DS. One wired normally open to ground and kill the spark when you let off the pedal (commonly the bottom switch). Second switch normally closed to provide the ground side to the solenoid small terminal to engage the starter.

[Fairtax4me]

That’s a factory key start cart. The relay was used on those to keep the solenoid powered. You can ditch the relay setup and follow the wire diagram for a pedal start cart and wire in a toggle switch for Key switch.
You should add in another micro-switch on the throttle cam that will be for the ignition kill circuit. (The white and black wire)
With not using the original key switch you will have no ignition kill. You’ll need at least one kill switch for the coil and you would not have that with the current arrangement. Adding the second microswitch to the throttle cam will take care of that easy. You can use either one from the FnR lever since you are bypassing those switches anyway.

[JeterPop]

Hey guys, thanks for the responses! I didn't know some of these Carryalls were born key start instead of pedal start. I've had many of em over the years, never have seen one like this. Ok, I did what both of you said and removed the relay and all the wiring associated with it. Trimmed all the wiring down to the 2 micro switches in the box. Good call Fairtax on using one of the FnR switches!
It's working great and beautifully simple. I think that relay and spaghetti wiring was doing my head in. Again, I really appreciate the expert advice.

One quick question, does the rev limiter also act as the starter kill?

[Fairtax4me]

Originally Posted by JeterPop

One quick question, does the rev limiter also act as the starter kill?

Nope. Rev limiter is supposed to keep it from spinning faster than about 3500 rpm. It will ground the coil temporarily until the engine slows down. But it doesn't do anything else. Usually these end up failing and causing spark problems when they get hot, and they just get disconnected.

[JeterPop]

Gotcha!
I have a new problem. Sometimes, after the engine is killed, the engine will stop just before TDC compression. This makes it hard for the starter to get past the compression. Usually it stops well behind the compression peak and the momentum will get the starter past that point. But when it's at that bad spot the starter really struggles and takes a couple seconds to get past it. I assume these engines have a compression release like mower engines etc. I adjusted the lash to .005 hoping it was out of adjustment. It was pretty much dead on so that didn't fix it. Looks like the engine was replaced in early 2013. I have a good strong battery, new terminals, new wire cables, ground connections removed and sanded to fresh metal. What do you think?

[CP241]

That sucks they took out the 350 and replaced with a 290. Bummer

290 does NOT have a compression release. What you explain is very common. Search around. There is no single cure, sometimes it’s a marginal battery, sometimes ground or corrosion on a cable. Sometimes brushes. Sometimes just a worn out starter. Start with the basics and go from there.

Or just live with it. My last carryall I drove like that for a couple years. Occasionally I’d have to hold the pedal for a few seconds before it starts. Most the time it would start just fine.

[Fairtax4me]

No compression release on the 290 engines. They only had those on some of the 350 and I think all of the 400 engines.

Pretty common for the starter to struggle on these. It’s usually a power delivery issue. Either loose or corroded cables or bad grounds. The ground that most people miss is on the frame rail next to the battery. I also see rust on the A post connection on your starter which could be causing some problems. Clean ALL of the posts and cables on the starter and make sure you have a good ground cable from starter to frame as well as from the frame to battery negative.

Second thing to check is the belt. Aftermarket belts are often too wide to sit properly in the starter pulley and will cause a loss of torque at the starter. The effective ratio of the pulley is larger which means it robs power from the starter. I highly recommend using an original Club Car OEM belt for the starter on these. They fit as they’re designed to and they last much longer than aftermarket belts.

If that doesn’t improve it the starter may need to be removed and rebuilt, which is usually just a set of brushes and some bearings.

Another thing that causes slow starting is the pulley arrangement on the clutch. There were several different sizes of pulleys used through the years and sometimes they get mixed or swapped out because it’s just one somebody had laying around. The correct pulley for the 290 motors should be the same size or slightly larger than the outer diameter of the clutch. If the pulley is smaller than the clutch OD it’s the wrong sized pulley and should be changed for the next larger size.

[CP241]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

. I also see rust on the A post connection on your starter which could be causing some problems. Clean ALL of the posts and cables on the starter and make sure you have a good ground cable from starter to frame as well as from the frame to battery negative.

Good point.

Recently the starter in my DS quit working out of nowhere. Click from solenoid, it was getting power and ground and no voltage drop, but it wasn’t pulling any current either. I’ve got a battery gauge on my dash that was stable and steady at 12.4v when it should have been cranking.

I pulled the starter, brushes looked good. Armature and everything looks great. Put it all back together. Hooked to a battery on my work bench. Not a spark or anything. So I pulled the terminal covers and noticed the posts were pretty rusty on the cable going from F1 to A2. Pulled the nuts off and cleaned all the rust with a wire brush. Put it back together and instantly it spun on the bench. Reinstalled it and it’s been perfect ever since.

Definitely worth checking the cable running from F1 to A1 on your newer one. A so-so connection there will rob power from the starter as well.

[JeterPop]

you guys are freakin awesome! I will try all of the above. Will let you know...