Old gas Harley possible rebuild, lots of questions

[Rabbit929]

Hey new to the forum but long time reader. To make a long story short I aquired 2 golf carts for $100. One club car electric and one Harley 2 stroke.

Electric ones all done-up simple enough and runs good. Now for the Harley..
No idea the year, but
vin is k5-10501-c4

Previous owner tried to fix it and had no luck.
What I know:
1: battery is good
2. Compression is 85psi, but I span the motor with an electric drill so no idea if that’s accurate.
3. Cylinder leak down test came back solid.
4. Gas pedal cable system has been molested, and needs all new cables for choke and gas.
5. Carb, gonna look into that today.
6. Reverse buzzer works, but electrically I am thinking i will have to pull the starter and bench test as I can’t get it to spin on its own.

All in all im still trying to decide if it’s worth fixing, but a buddy has a rebuilt 440 chapperal motor he wants me to put into it.


My question is, what are all the electrical components I need to buy to make this girl reliable, and how would you go about modernizing the electrical system?
I’m still not sure if it’s worth fixing and I would like to make sure before I start tossing money at it. I can upload pics after my first 3 posts.

[Rabbit929]

**Update**

Got the starter generator off, toast. Both bearings are bad, armature is rough, brushes are molten. Ordered a replacement for $170 as well as a voltage reg and starter solenoid.

Ignition coil looks new as well as condenser and plug, fuel filter also though I will pull the carb and check how dirty it is. Seems my old friend was running through the regular paces for tuning up a gas motor, just got lost with the electrical. (As am I.)

Is it worth replacing the ignition switch for $90, that is also the f/r switch as a precaution?
What’s the spring loaded plate that rubs against the drive clutch? It appears as if it’s some kind of ground to shut the motor off when you let off the gas, but the cables are all torn.
Any ideas for replacement throttle and choke cables, and possibly orientation or something?

[Lochlin]

That ignition switch should be a very basic 2 wire switch. Any old cheap 2 wire key switch should work on that. I sure wouldn't spend $90 on it. The F/R switches really don't go bad although the springs inside can be replaced if they got week. Generally, all the F/W switches need is to have the contacts cleaned up and they work.

That plate against the drive clutch is actually a governor. If working properly, it will prevent the motor from revving up all the way. Personally, I would get rid of it altogether.

The cables can be tricky. The accelerator is somewhat unique to that cart. Try to save is as much as you can. Personally, I use Kroil on them to loosen them up and get them moving good. The choke cable is easier. There are universal 8 foot choke cables out that there can be trimmed for any application. Those will work on these carts.