Replaced cables now nothing

[Goldstripe]

i have a 2005 TXT PDS cart has been great for the 6 months I've owned it. Last night I finished upgrading the wiring from 6awg and 4awg to all 2awg. The 2 running to the motor were the last ones I did. After finishing, I had no go and no noise from the solenoid.

This morning, after double checking my pictures, I realized I had the 2 large wires going to the motor reversed, still no go. If I flip from tow to run, i can get the solenoid to click and the cart briefly goes in reverse before stopping. Going back to tow and back to run, in forward, a slight press on the pedal the cart will nudge a bit and the solenoid will click once but then nothing. Letting off the pedal and back on, nothing.

I have also noticed that the resistor between the big terminals on the solenoid gets hot enough to burn me (it did) in about 10 seconds in run mode, key on or off.

I tried to be careful replacing only one wire at a time so i was sure to put it back where it was supposed to go. I've been reading / researching the hot resistor and perhaps i've fried the solenoid somehow? This is a stock PDS with the Curtis controller - says Curtis PMC on the sticker with a p/n and a s/n

Besides having the wires reversed at the motor, one of the blades/lugs on the controller was extremely hard to get off to the point where it got bent a little but is straight now and still tight in the controller.

What did I fry?

[scottyb]

You said > I have also noticed that the resistor between the big terminals on the solenoid gets hot enough to burn me (it did) in about 10 seconds in run mode, key on or off.

This happens when the controller is calling for power but the solenoid is not closed aka activated.
Most likely problem is there was a small wire on the solenoid big post that you have left off. It goes on the battery side of the solenoid if you find this is the case.

[Goldstripe]

Thank you scottyb, i just went out and looked and i do see a small red wire on the battery side of that solenoid so it's there too.

Also worth noting, as you'll see in the picture, there is not diode across the small posts; never has been.

[Goldstripe]

Did a little more testing. I wanted to see if that resistor gets hot even with the big motor wires disconnected completely. It does indeed get smoking hot in under a minute.

Also checked the voltage on the large posts of the solenoid. In tow mode, 39v on the battery side (pack voltage), and on the other side, 35v. Switch to run mode and the other side is around 2ish volts and goes down as the resistor heats up. I turned it back to tow mode when it got down to 0.9v and i could smell the resistor.

Not sure if any of that helps anyone's diagnosis. I appreciate any help

[rockfordpi]

Originally Posted by Goldstripe

i have a 2005 TXT PDS cart has been great for the 6 months I've owned it. Last night I finished upgrading the wiring from 6awg and 4awg to all 2awg. The 2 running to the motor were the last ones I did. After finishing, I had no go and no noise from the solenoid.

This morning, after double checking my pictures, I realized I had the 2 large wires going to the motor reversed, still no go. If I flip from tow to run, i can get the solenoid to click and the cart briefly goes in reverse before stopping. Going back to tow and back to run, in forward, a slight press on the pedal the cart will nudge a bit and the solenoid will click once but then nothing. Letting off the pedal and back on, nothing.

I have also noticed that the resistor between the big terminals on the solenoid gets hot enough to burn me (it did) in about 10 seconds in run mode, key on or off.

I tried to be careful replacing only one wire at a time so i was sure to put it back where it was supposed to go. I've been reading / researching the hot resistor and perhaps i've fried the solenoid somehow? This is a stock PDS with the Curtis controller - says Curtis PMC on the sticker with a p/n and a s/n

Besides having the wires reversed at the motor, one of the blades/lugs on the controller was extremely hard to get off to the point where it got bent a little but is straight now and still tight in the controller.

What did I fry?

Not sure if it will give you what you need, but the PDS has a diagnostic mode that will beep error codes. With the key off. Move the F&R rocker switch to reverse and back to neutral 5 times. The 5th time back to neutral should give a series of beeps (after a moment) indicating the personality chip installed and then fault codes if any.

[rockfordpi]

Originally Posted by Goldstripe

Did a little more testing. I wanted to see if that resistor gets hot even with the big motor wires disconnected completely. It does indeed get smoking hot in under a minute.

Also checked the voltage on the large posts of the solenoid. In tow mode, 39v on the battery side (pack voltage), and on the other side, 35v. Switch to run mode and the other side is around 2ish volts and goes down as the resistor heats up. I turned it back to tow mode when it got down to 0.9v and i could smell the resistor.

Not sure if any of that helps anyone's diagnosis. I appreciate any help

Can you clarify what you mean by "...the big motor wires disconnected completely..." From where did you disconnect these?

Also, just to be 100% sure, you have the red wire on the Sol on the same terminal as the wire going back to your Battery + ? The other side goes to A2 on the motor and B+ on the controller?

For the resistor to get hot, there must a load or short to battery - on the output side of the Sol even when the Sol is open.

[Goldstripe]

Originally Posted by rockfordpi

Can you clarify what you mean by "...the big motor wires disconnected completely..." From where did you disconnect these?

Also, just to be 100% sure, you have the red wire on the Sol on the same terminal as the wire going back to your Battery + ? The other side goes to A2 on the motor and B+ on the controller?

For the resistor to get hot, there must a load or short to battery - on the output side of the Sol even when the Sol is open.

Thanks rockfordpi.

To clarify, I disconnected the big wires back at the motor and covered the terminals with tape. I'm going to double check the connections at the solenoid / controller today to ensure i have them correct but I'm pretty sure I do. I will report back. I'm also going to check to see if the resistor gets hot without the big wire attached, just the battery+ wire.

[scottyb]

The resistor gets hot when the controller calls for battery power but the solenoid is open. Solenoid failure to close (aka activate, or click) is the issue.

[Goldstripe]

Originally Posted by scottyb

The resistor gets hot when the controller calls for battery power but the solenoid is open. Solenoid failure to close (aka activate, or click) is the issue.

Thank you scottyb. I just did some additional testing and confirming that one side of the solenoid has / had nothing but the pack positive and the other large post was connected to B+ on the controller and then on to the motor (currently disconnected).

I was worried that wrangling that B+ post on the controller may have shorted something out in the controller but it's not loose at all. I should probably add a diode while I'm add at, since there hasn't been one on here since I've owned the cart. Really appreciate everyone's help; I'll report back

[kgsc]

You need to test for voltage on the controller side of the solenoid with the pedal pushed and everything connected otherwise you will see mostly pack voltage because of the resistor. If it is getting hot I’m betting the solenoid has failed.