|
Electric Club Car Electric DS, and Precedent golf cars |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
01-23-2014, 12:27 PM | #1 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 379
|
Need help with motor test
I am still in the process of converting my 1993 club car 36v from resistor to solid state with 48v. Have potentiometer in, and its ohms are reading from 0 at rest to 5.23 when pedal pressed down. FSIP 700 amp controller. New heavy duty solenoid, which clicks. My problem is the cart still won't go.
I have disconnected the battery negative and positive and disconnected everything from motor. I tested the continuity of the motor with the ohm meter set to 200. Here is what I got: A1-A2 - continuity reads .9 S1-S2 - reads .5 nothing between any of a terminals and s terminals, as it should be. I was about to battery test the motor with a twelve volt battery. I have seen the diagram, which requires a jumper between A2 and S1. See http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...otor-test.html I have connected one of my short battery cables between these. But, the diagram then says to run cables to the battery and add make a "break." What is that exactly? At my controller, I get full battery output at B+ and B- of 50.1 volts. At pin one on the controller, I get 50.1 volts. the solenoid clicks. At B- and M, I get 50.1 volts, but it does not drop when pedal is fully depressed as it should. All connections triple, quadruple, etc. checked. Any help is appreciated. Thanks. |
|
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Motor Test | Electric Club Car | |||
L.v. Motor test | Electric Club Car | |||
GE 36V motor test | Electric golf carts | |||
Test motor | Test Post | |||
How to test a 48V motor??? | Electric Club Car |