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Old 06-14-2021, 05:01 PM   #1
Katie99
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Default Loss of voltage at key switch

I have 2013 club car precedent 48v. Solenoid does not click.
Solenoid is brand new, mcor4 is new. I have 50v at the orange wire in the center of the f/r switch. I have 50v on the green wire at the ignition switch. When I turn the key on I have 0volts. I can run a jumper wire across to the blue wire on the Ignition to have 50 volts at the Solenoid but when I press the throttle the Solenoid still does not click unless I manually ground the Solenoid.
Could the speed controller have failed.
Nothing happens whether I have the cart in fed or reverse.
Also the reverse buzzer is not functioning due to corroded and broken wire at the buzzer.
What should I check next any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 06-14-2021, 05:08 PM   #2
Katie99
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Default Re: Loss of voltage at key switch

Also checked the fuse behind the solenoid and it is good.
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Old 06-14-2021, 06:11 PM   #3
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Default Re: Loss of voltage at key switch

Quote:
Originally Posted by Katie99 View Post
I have 50v on the green wire at the ignition switch. When I turn the key on I have 0volts. I can run a jumper wire across to the blue wire on the Ignition to have 50 volts at the Solenoid but when I press the throttle the Solenoid still does not click unless I manually ground the Solenoid.
You say that when you switch the key ON you have 0 volts. Are you saying that when you switch on you LOSE the 50 volts you had measured on the green ?
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Old 06-14-2021, 06:34 PM   #4
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Default Re: Loss of voltage at key switch

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Originally Posted by Katie99 View Post
Also checked the fuse behind the solenoid and it is good.
Have you checked the fuse on the grey wire behind the charge plug/receptacle ? It is enclosed in a yellow fuse holder.
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Old 06-14-2021, 09:16 PM   #5
Katie99
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Default Re: Loss of voltage at key switch

Yes that is exactly what I am saying. It's very odd.
Could I have a controller that is stuck in a lockout mode that would not allow power to transfer past the key switch?
Just trying to figure out what's going on.
That cart ran fine two weeks ago. Had a bad battery and swapped all 6 batteries out with new ones and now nothing. It's strange.
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Old 06-14-2021, 09:25 PM   #6
Katie99
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Default Re: Loss of voltage at key switch

Basically it's acting like the curtis controller is not powering up.
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Old 06-14-2021, 09:59 PM   #7
Katie99
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Default Re: Loss of voltage at key switch

I looked for a fuse but was unable to find one in a yellow plug.
I will continue to look for it.
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Old 06-14-2021, 10:08 PM   #8
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Default Re: Loss of voltage at key switch

The power for the green at the key switch begins at the battery positive lug on the solenoid, leaves as a pink wire to the Tow/Run switch, and from the tow/run switch as a light green to a sonic weld in the harness that supplies multiple things. If that sonic weld is faulty it would possibly lose connection when you switch the cart on, producing a load on the circuit. Check to see if you are also losing power on the orange at the FR switch when you lose power on the green at the key switch. If you lose power on the orange at the same time as the green, then check the white wire at the 6 pin plug to the on board computer. It too is powered from the same sonic weld connection. If they ALL lose power simultaneously when you switch the cart on, then check the light green from the tow run switch that supplies that sonic weld. If it is still showing power, then the failure is in that sonic weld connection. The white wire at the on board computer supplies power to the controller, so in effect, the controller is asleep and fits the description of everything you're saying.
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File Type: jpg Club Car IQ Wiring.jpg (132.5 KB, 0 views)
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Old 06-14-2021, 10:40 PM   #9
Katie99
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Default Re: Loss of voltage at key switch

Ok thank you.

I am at home now and will go back to my shop tomorrow.
If the controller is in fact asleep how would I wake it up
Assuming I have 48v at the orange wire when the key switch is turned on
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Old 06-14-2021, 10:57 PM   #10
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Default Re: Loss of voltage at key switch

If you switch on and lose power at the green, but still have power at the orange, then you still have a problem in that weld joint in the wiring. As you can see, they are connected and should ALL have power. If the orange stays powered, and the white to the on board computer stays powered, then you only have to find the failure in the green. The whole connection and all of it's leads have to be live for the cart to work. The blue from the key switch puts power to the solenoid, but the controller has to ground the solenoid for it to work. That won't happen if there's no power on the white wire. You've gotta find that sonic weld in the wiring harness and fix it. FIRST THING is to see if the orange is going dead, and if it is, is the light green from the tow run switch still live. That will zero in on the problem. In the unlikely but possible scenario that the light green from the tow run also goes dead when you lose power on the green, then you're looking at a problem with the tow run switch. ( much easier to fix, but not likely )
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