Comet 94C: Damaged? Looking for a higher top speed

[ccDSKF82]

Just finished my GX420 swap today.
The cart performs excellent, the swap went well.
Though the engine provides tons of torque, i am not too satisfied with the top speed...
The cart does exactly 16MPH @4100 RPM(Which is floored even though the engine is governed at 4600 RPM)
I am using the factory driven, with the CPP double cogged clone belt.
Running the cart floored in neutral, the 94c doesnt seem to compress the belt completley since the belt does not come to the top of the clutch disks.
Seems like the belt could come up maybe 3/4ths of an inch more in diameter.
When i got the clutch, i noticed a very small dent on the compressing plate...
My questions are: Could this small dent be keeping the clutch from fully compressing? Or do i need a different spring for more speed?

[Streetbu]

I think the 94C takes a wider belt than a CC but I'm not 100% on that. Could be your issue though.

[ccDSKF82]

Originally Posted by Streetbu

I think the 94C takes a wider belt than a CC but I'm not 100% on that. Could be your issue though.

You may be right. VC reccomends a 1-3/16 or a 1-1/4 wide belt with this clutch. The CC Clone belt that CCP sells is only 1"... But wouldn't having a wider belt not allow the driven to open as much?

[geoffw]

94C requires a 1 3/16" belt...

You cannot use the stock Club Car driven clutch with the wider belt, so you will need to buy an aftermarket driven. I do not sell them, but I highly recommend this one:

http://www.cartpartsplus.com/driven-...block-club-car

Also. the factory clone/gx390 rev limiter is set to 3600rpm.

A small dent wont affect the clutch at all. its merely a dust shield. The spring will only make things worse since you have the wrong belt.

-Geoff

[ccDSKF82]

Originally Posted by geoffw

94C requires a 1 3/16" belt...

You cannot use the stock Club Car driven clutch with the wider belt, so you will need to buy an aftermarket driven. I do not sell them, but I highly recommend this one:

http://www.cartpartsplus.com/driven-...block-club-car

Also. the factory clone/gx390 rev limiter is set to 3600rpm.

A small dent wont affect the clutch at all. its merely a dust shield. The spring will only make things worse since you have the wrong belt.

-Geoff

Ouch... New driven...
Luckily i was able to find a belt from DennisKirk. With the length and width, normally these types of belts are made for vintage snowmobiles and Seadoos i guess.

The engine starts to rev-hop at around 4600 according to my tach...
There was a screw under the linkage that i removed that limited my RPM to 3600. After i removed that, i guess the engines internal gear/magnet driven governor takes over. Seems wierd, two governors..

Do you think if i installed a heavier spring into the 94C that i would be able to use my CPP belt?

[BigBlockMan]

Could also switch drive clutch to Comet 780 setup for 1" belt. The 94c was a good sled clutch but not great for a 4 cycle repower.

[geoffw]

Originally Posted by ccDSKF82

Ouch... New driven...
Luckily i was able to find a belt from DennisKirk. With the length and width, normally these types of belts are made for vintage snowmobiles and Seadoos i guess.

The engine starts to rev-hop at around 4600 according to my tach...
There was a screw under the linkage that i removed that limited my RPM to 3600. After i removed that, i guess the engines internal gear/magnet driven governor takes over. Seems wierd, two governors..

Do you think if i installed a heavier spring into the 94C that i would be able to use my CPP belt?

Removing that screw effectively removes the governor since it allows the governor shaft to slip, however you really need to remove the governor gear inside the engine. That "rev-hop" you are referring to is actually valve float...without Heavier springs, a valve will eventually break or slip off and destroy the engine. I highly suggest you either put that bolt back in or put some better valve springs in it.

HD springs will allow you to take the engine to 6000rpm without valvetrain issue.

[ccDSKF82]

Originally Posted by BigBlockMan

Could also switch drive clutch to Comet 780 setup for 1" belt. The 94c was a good sled clutch but not great for a 4 cycle repower.

I originally wanted to go with the 780, but i found out about the large variaty of tuning parts for the 94C. Guess im eventually going to have to pick up one of your Big Block Drivens.

Originally Posted by geoffw

Removing that screw effectively removes the governor since it allows the governor shaft to slip, however you really need to remove the governor gear inside the engine. That "rev-hop" you are referring to is actually valve float...without Heavier springs, a valve will eventually break or slip off and destroy the engine. I highly suggest you either put that bolt back in or put some better valve springs in it.

HD springs will allow you to take the engine to 6000rpm without valvetrain issue.

Valve Float? Yikes! You guys carry HD Springs right?
I was acctually going to ask you about clone valvetrains, Geoff.
Say i do get heavier Valve Springs, and maybe a cam... However i'd be worried about the connecting rod. Could stock clone bottom ends hold up to 6K RPM?

[sho305]

Usually recommended if you get a cam to put a good rod in it. The stock rod does not oil well at high rpm, the stock cam does not make much power over 5K or so. A cam typically makes it rev higher and that is bad for the rod of course. You might use a torque cam that does not go over 6K and get away with it, nobody I can find except Geoff is looking into things like this. I plan to get a cam (torque cam <6K rpm) and put a rod in just because of durability issues out on the trail. Sometimes we ride hours away. Rod and cam about the same price around 150, but cam will make them run differently. Well modified clones are running 30hp, though might not be a nice setup for a laid back golf cart lol. Most mods are for goakart and minibike use so be careful. Again Geoff is the only one I know of doing golf cart stuff with them.

I have his HD springs and 1.3 rockers. Not sure how the rockers work because I put both in at once, but it runs much better above 5K now it must be near 6K if I wind it up on the road....but my tiny tach is not reading well over 5600 or so it stops. Going to wrap the wire more and see if that helps. Anyway it went from about 32mph to 37mph gps when I put the springs/rockers in. Seems to have more power 3500-5500K also, by seat of pants. It has other things on it like a cut/ported head and timing key, header.

Anyway you should put the springs on for sure and get the exhaust retainer for the intake valve. That would be the rev kit more or less and pull the side cover, break off the plastic governor gear and remove, remove the arm and plug the hole. IIRC a 3/8" tap goes right in and you can just put a 3/8 bolt in it with a little sealer on it. Keep any shavings out of the engine of course, keep the cam and balance shaft in the engine then you don't have to line it up. If run you may need a new gasket is all, my new one I laid it cover up for a few days so the oil ran to other side (it came empty but they did test fire it so some oil was in there). Oil will wet the gasket its paper. Also blue loctite the bolts when you put cover back on. Its all pretty easy to do.

[ccDSKF82]

Wow, 37 MPH? Are you running high speed gears? If not thats very impressive...
Of course, my CC is a '91 so its got a really tall diff. I assume you are using the 780 clutch wiith the CPP Driven?
Anyways... How hard is it to remove the driven clutch? I've read rumors that sometimes the clutches for whatever reason like to weld themselves to the input shafts, and heavy machinery is needed to get one off... Is this true?