Icon Dashboard Wiring

[Stripes136]

Hello - I have a 2020 I60L and have been looking to wire a LED light bar but wanted to know if anyone could tell me if any of the the available wires in the dash can be used. I know there is a fuse box with an available slot but what are the wires in the pictures used for? One looks like it could
connect to a relay.

Also, how is everyone powering their sound bars? Are you using a 12v converter connected to the batteries?

Thank you

[ATrain]

Don't use those 3 wires. 2 of them are 51v+. I don't know what they're for though. See my new post here and you might be able to figure it out.

Did you unplug that relay connection or is it just loose in there? If you unplugged it, it is your turn signal relay. Test by turning the cart on and trying the signals.

You don't need a 12v converter as there is already one in the cart. It's the odd black box under the seat. It has a red (+) and black (-) wire coming out of it at 12v that goes under the cart, then up between the two front wheels to your dash. If your cart is lifted, you can lay on your back and get your arm up there if needed.

I believe the red 12v (+) from the DC/DC goes directly into that fuse block. Just splice into it before the fuse block and add your own fuse block if desired or your own fuse.

NOTE: DC/DC reducers are notorious for EMI so if you use an all-in-one sound bar type thing, you should be ok. If you use a stereo-type, you might hear a high-pitched noise from the speakers when no music is playing and power is to the speakers. I bought one of those noise-filters off of Amazon for $9 that pretty much solved it.

At the bottom of your picture with the relay connection in your hand is a black and blue wire connected to the back of the USB ports. That black wire, I believe, goes directly to the (-) ground on the output of the 48v/12v DC-DC reducer. Splice into that.

See this post for more detail.

The 12v wires are key-switched, meaning when the cart is OFF, they don't have power. This is good, so if you turn the cart off but leave the radio on, it won't drain your battery because the key cuts power.

I wired my big speakers to the 12v DC/DC as I described above with no issue other than the noise over the speakers initially.

[Stripes136]

Hey ATrain - thank you for the detailed response. Not sure what the white adapter is but the turn signals, high beams, horn etc seem to work fine.

Can I splice in the the radio and the lightbar before the fuse panel up front without any issues? Assuming I add my own inline fuse for each? Thanks for your time.

[ATrain]

Originally Posted by Stripes136

Hey ATrain - thank you for the detailed response. Not sure what the white adapter is but the turn signals, high beams, horn etc seem to work fine.

Did you unplug that or was it just loose in there? There should be a relay that it is connected to, and when you use your turn signals if you put your hand on the side of the black relay, you can feel it clicking.

Originally Posted by Stripes136

Can I splice in the the radio and the lightbar before the fuse panel up front without any issues? Assuming I add my own inline fuse for each? Thanks for your time.

Yes, the wires are directly out of the DC/DC, so it's the best place to splice.

I got one of these for another cart of mine and it's a nice little fuse block. The 1 single post at the bottom you connect the (+) to and the exposed post at the top with all the bolts is your (-) ground bar.

[Stripes136]

Yeah, that connector was just sitting in there when I opened up the dash. The dealer said they disconnected the backup horn but looks like that was just the connection under the seat to the actual horn. Not sure what else it could be to.

Like the idea using the additional fuse box in the event I cant stop with accessories 😳. (Been a know problem in the past)

Thanks again

[Stripes136]

Hi ATrain - so I have two quick questions for you.

1) Do you know if the adapter coming out of the bottom of the reservoir in the photo should be attached to something? I opened up the dash and noticed this unplugged as well.

2) In the second photo, those are the wires going into the fuse box. Would the 12 V wire be the large red one? I am going to try and get a voltmeter on it but wasn’t sure if you knew the answer off the top your head.

Thank you again for all your help.

[ATrain]

Originally Posted by Stripes136

Hi ATrain - so I have two quick questions for you.

1) Do you know if the adapter coming out of the bottom of the reservoir in the photo should be attached to something? I opened up the dash and noticed this unplugged as well.

2) In the second photo, those are the wires going into the fuse box. Would the 12 V wire be the large red one? I am going to try and get a voltmeter on it but wasn’t sure if you knew the answer off the top your head.

Thank you again for all your help.

You should get a multimeter and play around with it, super crazy helpful. I'm not an expert with mine, but I mostly just use the volt & continuity settings.

1) I don't know what the connection coming out of the bottom of the brake fluid reservoir is, but from what I've noticed, ICON uses off-the-shelf parts when they can find them, so I'd suspect it's a brake fluid sensor that they didn't have any method to program into the display so it's just disconnected.

You can test if that's true with a multi by following this video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jsGZJFMgUpA

2) I remember the red wire being thicker yes and it does go directly into the fuse block underneath. I think you can go to the DC/DC near the batteries and kind of follow that umbilical cable bundle coming out of it until you get to a corrugated plastic enclosure (like in your picture) and then you should see the same thick red (thick black I think too) wire.

Note: I suspect there are various disconnected wires because things could be hooked up or off-the-shelf components they used were multi-purpose.

[Granite]

Originally Posted by ATrain

Don't use those 3 wires. 2 of them are 51v+. I don't know what they're for though

Did you unplug that relay connection or is it just loose in there? If you unplugged it, it is your turn signal relay. Test by turning the cart on and trying the signals.

You don't need a 12v converter as there is already one in the cart. It's the odd black box under the seat. It has a red (+) and black (-) wire coming out of it at 12v that goes under the cart, then up between the two front wheels to your dash. If your cart is lifted, you can lay on your back and get your arm up there if needed.

I believe the red 12v (+) from the DC/DC goes directly into that fuse block. Just splice into it before the fuse block and add your own fuse block if desired or your own fuse.

NOTE: DC/DC reducers are notorious for EMI so if you use an all-in-one sound bar type thing, you should be ok. If you use a stereo-type, you might hear a high-pitched noise from the speakers when no music is playing and power is to the speakers. I bought one of those noise-filters off of Amazon for $9 that pretty much solved it.

At the bottom of your picture with the relay connection in your hand is a black and blue wire connected to the back of the USB ports. That black wire, I believe, goes directly to the (-) ground on the output of the 48v/12v DC-DC reducer.

The 12v wires are key-switched, meaning when the cart is OFF, they don't have power. This is good, so if you turn the cart off but leave the radio on, it won't drain your battery because the key cuts power.

I wired my big speakers to the 12v DC/DC as I described above with no issue other than the noise over the speakers initially.

ATrain, do you know what the amps are coming out of the 48-12 step down transformer? I plan to put underbody and canopy lights on my I40 (take delivery end of year) and LEDglow says it needs to be 5A or less and that usually Amps off a built in voltage converter are higher. Wiring diagram shows 15A fuse there if I’m reading it right.

Just trying to figure out if I need my own voltage reducer that outputs 5A

[ATrain]

Originally Posted by Granite

ATrain, do you know what the amps are coming out of the 48-12 step down transformer? I plan to put underbody and canopy lights on my I40 (take delivery end of year) and LEDglow says it needs to be 5A or less and that usually Amps off a built in voltage converter are higher. Wiring diagram shows 15A fuse there if I’m reading it right.

Just trying to figure out if I need my own voltage reducer that outputs 5A

I don't know the amps off hand, but I'm confused with the premise here...I thought amps was the draw, and isn't it telling you it only draws max of 5amps? So if you have a billion amps available from the DC/DC, it wouldn't matter.

I'm not an electrician, I'm at the hobby level, so I could be wrong.

[Granite]

You're right as long as its 12V DC, even if the amps are higher it should be fine (I am also not an electrician but did more research). It still matters though about what the 12v power is putting out for amps. E.g. if its 12v/2.4A and the lights I want to hook up need 5A, it wont work. I don’t suppose that the 12v power is labeled in any way?

Did you hook underbody lights to this line (thought I saw that you did in another thread and then also had to splice into USB power line)? Is that right?

I think I may just follow the underbody light mfgr’s recommendation to buy their 48v/12v voltage reducer (just $25) to ensure volts/amps are correct.