Winch powered through converter - rabbit hole... Guru thoughts?

[BBBHC]

Volt ampere "I noticed that these converters are "non isolated". That is a bit of a worry. Make sure you don't ground anything or your battery will be grounded too - not good at all."

Originally Posted by DanRoss

Best explanation I can give on this is if you bolt an accessory up to say the frame and the accessories method of attachment can also be a ground you've now turned your frame into a ground for not only the accessory but also the battery pack since they share the ground connection on the converter.

If it was an isolated ground inside the unit it would have separate grounds for incoming and outgoing power. In the scenario above the frame would only carry the accessory ground and not the battery pack ground.

If I'm off on that explanation please someone do correct me.

Originally Posted by trig123

Read JohnnieB post here. Post number 5. Pay very close attention to his post. Read it more than once.

https://www.buggiesgonewild.com/showthread.php?t=53144


Old post but still applies .

He knows what he is talking about .

Thank you folks! I was aware that no electric vehicle should utilize the frame for grounding, just was not sure about the term isolated.

So need to source a converter that is isolated, and the more amps, the better. Along with a fuse box.

[BBBHC]

Originally Posted by Sergio

The winch motor should handle it ok, You just need to install a trim-pot in the throttle wires for the winch controller and adjust it to about 25% throttle or until you get around +14v between B+ and M- with no load on the winch motor.

I think the only issue is if the winch itself has any kind of electronics like a wireless receiver as the peak voltage of the PWM may cause issues with its circuit.

Great information.

So it would be best to source a winch first, that does not have extra electronics, then a trim-pot?

[Sergio]

My comment was not about a reducer but using a Series Controller to drive the winch.

There was a thread many years ago that we discussed that option, using a switch and extra Solenoid to leverage the existing controller and throttle pedal in the cart to drive the winch.

The issue with the non-isolated converter is not much about the converter itself as likely 95+% of all reducers used by members here are the non-isolated type.

The main issue is that the winch would provide a very "robust" path to the chassis if the mount is not isolated from the cart chassis.

Just thinking out loud if you bolt auto accessories (horn, flood lights, radio, etc) to your cart chassis, You should also fuse the negative wire that goes to the negative bus-bar as that wire would be the return if a positive cable is ever allowed to touch the chassis.

A separate battery is probably the best option and since you likely have an onboard charger for your lithium pack, just splitting the 120VAC power and adding a second charger for the 12v battery inside the cart would not add any more work during charge.

[Lightning8U]

Originally Posted by BBBHC

Here is another try for the link:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KQQGJWM...v_ov_lig_dp_it

I won't be adding a stereo. At most I'll add a couple light bars. This buggy will just be used for hunting and maintenance of my future property with acreage. If there is a different converter that would be recommended, I am all ears!

When I looked into this a couple years ago, I was told running a winch through a converter was not possible. Then I ran across this person, and figured maybe new products have hit the market.

Could you just run two on these: https://www.amazon.com/Cllena-Voltag...ronics&sr=1-11

Can you connect two of these in parallel? Sorry if this is a dumb question. Trying to do the same for a customer going to lithium. Does not want any additional batteries.

[Volt_Ampere]

No you can't run reducers in parallel.

[BBBHC]

Originally Posted by Sergio

My comment was not about a reducer but using a Series Controller to drive the winch.

There was a thread many years ago that we discussed that option, using a switch and extra Solenoid to leverage the existing controller and throttle pedal in the cart to drive the winch.
Ah hah. That makes sense.

The issue with the non-isolated converter is not much about the converter itself as likely 95+% of all reducers used by members here are the non-isolated type.

The main issue is that the winch would provide a very "robust" path to the chassis if the mount is not isolated from the cart chassis.

Just thinking out loud if you bolt auto accessories (horn, flood lights, radio, etc) to your cart chassis, You should also fuse the negative wire that goes to the negative bus-bar as that wire would be the return if a positive cable is ever allowed to touch the chassis.
I was planning on installing a fuse box with plenty of open room for additional accessories, should I ever decide to add on in the future. For now it would just be the winch and one light bar, maybe a second light bar in the future.

A separate battery is probably the best option and since you likely have an onboard charger for your lithium pack, just splitting the 120VAC power and adding a second charger for the 12v battery inside the cart would not add any more work during charge.

I am not running a charger on board. I decided to leave it off the buggy for more storage room as well as thinking it would possibly be less wear and tear on the charger. I am aware a separate battery is the norm, just wanting to save the weight and storage room.

[Sergio]

I would not run the winch through a fuse box or negative buss bar as most will not be able to handle the current.

The winch positive and negative cables should go directly to the battery posts with fuses as close to the battery posts as practical.

[Lightning8U]

Originally Posted by Volt_Ampere

No you can't run reducers in parallel.

Thank you!

[Danimal1228]

I've been looking into the best way to power a winch also. Using a converter looks possible but the amount of current a winch can draw seems like it would be too much for most converters. I read somewhere that you can find 48v winches, usually for certain ATVs, which would draw evenly from the pack, and draw 1/4 of the current too.

[BBBHC]

Thank you for all the responses. I'll do some digging around for converters and post any that I find here, that I think may be a viable solution. Probably be a while, as unfortunately I am in no hurry to get a winch installed (seems my dream of buying acreage is postponed for a little while longer...).

Originally Posted by Danimal1228

I've been looking into the best way to power a winch also. Using a converter looks possible but the amount of current a winch can draw seems like it would be too much for most converters. I read somewhere that you can find 48v winches, usually for certain ATVs, which would draw evenly from the pack, and draw 1/4 of the current too.

I've been looking for 48v winches, even reached out to some manufacturers, but had no luck in finding any. If you find any, can you please let us know?